I couldn't find my thread about this previously from several weeks back, so bare with me.

In the Chilton's manual, if any assembly needs to be removed before getting at the task at hand, it always provides a reference back to that. For halfshaft replacement, it doesn't refer back to any section on removing the calipers and rotors to replace the halfshafts.

So my question is, do you or do you not have to remove the caliper assembly from the wheel to get at the spindle nut and the rest of the half shaft? Remember, I'm just a beginner shadetree so go easy on me.

 

this is what you do

with the car on the ground

1. loosen center nut
2. loosen lugnuts


raise the car and remove axle nut and lugs nuts

1. remove ball joint
2. remove tie rod after marking it with white paint so you know how far to thread it back on.
3. rotate wheel out and remove driveshaft from trans
4. remove driveshaft from wheel
5. insert new driveshaft into trans
6. insert driveshaft into wheel
7. reinstall balljoint (I would put a new one on)
8. reinstall tie rod
9 reinstall large axle nut
10 reinstall tire and wheel cover

 

that's some good steps. SOunds like I don't have to removed the caliper, which suits me fine.

BTW, the tie rod? COuld you elaborate on that. I can't seem to locate that description in my manual...

 

tie rod connects your rack and pinion to the front wheel. you need to remove it so you can rotate tehg wheel out to give you enough room to remove and install the axle.

 

o.k. I think I know what you are talking about...

BTW, I will most likely have to do this on a Saturday. I might be able to get it to Sears on Sunday for an alignment, but my question is, if I cannot, how much damage, if any, would it cause to drive without an alignment for say a week from that day?


At this point, I know you are saying to yourself, "This guy is going to be under the car a long time...long time...lol

 

If you manage to get it reasonably close (you will if you mark the threads) then 1 week will not kill it. I would take it to a HONDA dealer for an allignment. I tried 3rd party shops but everysingle one of them could not do it right. the Honda dealer has never let me down.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YeuEmMaiMai &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this is what you do

with the car on the ground

1. loosen center nut
2. loosen lugnuts


raise the car and remove axle nut and lugs nuts

1. remove ball joint
2. remove tie rod after marking it with white paint so you know how far to thread it back on.
3. rotate wheel out and remove driveshaft from trans
4. remove driveshaft from wheel
5. insert new driveshaft into trans
6. insert driveshaft into wheel
7. reinstall balljoint (I would put a new one on)
8. reinstall tie rod
9 reinstall large axle nut
10 reinstall tire and wheel cover</TD></TR></TABLE>

Naw, you're making too much work for yourself! You don't have to remove the axle on the caliper side to remove the intermediate shaft. This is how Helms (dealer repair manual) had me do it to drop the tranny...

1. Separate the lower ball joint (pneumatic air chisel worked miracles, pry tool didn't work for me...make sure you leave the nut threaded on while you hammer on it to fix bent threads) and remove the lower arm bolt
2. Remove the damper fork bolt (don't worry the shock tower won't come shooting out at you!)

*Helms says to remove the right radius rod that connects to the frame near the bumper (big rubber bushing), BUT I think that was on the pass. side. Take a look but if my memory serves me correctly you don't have to remove it.

You should now be able to pick the whole caliper assembly up and swing the ball joint clear of the lower arm. It's probably gonna take a second person, one to hold the caliper and another to pop the axle loose from the inter. shaft. Make sure you put a plastic bag or something over the axle and support it with wire. From there just remove the two bolts on the inter. shaft bracket and pop it out.

This only took me about half an 15 minutes to do. I would definitely rent a ball joint separator from an auto parts tool, they're pressed in there really well. Don't get the big fork looking thing either (you want the one that has two separate plates with a bolt that you tighen to pop it out), as long as you don't pierce the rubber boot you should be able to re-use the ball joint (about $50 to replace).

I didn't get an alignment afterwards because I never touched the tie rod adjustment. Just make sure you mark how the fork is lined up (oh you want to tighten it back up with the weight of the car on the fork). Its really best to get an alignment after you get fresh tires, so I'm holding off.

Hope this helps, should save you some time!


Modified by Schmitey at 6:38 PM 4/18/2005

 

does honda charge more than a trustworthy suspension shop?

 

I think Honda would charge more than any shop for anything related to your vehicle...

 

too much work guys, loosen axle nut 36 mm separate lower ball joint, no need to remove fork axle slides out between the fork , no need to do anything with tie rod ... once you got axle nut off, ball jouint separated pull on the whole rotor assembly to separate from axle, swing it to the side, with a big screwdriver pry on the inner axle joint to separate from transmission and slide whole axle out of car throught the fork trust me it will go through i have done hundreds of them ,, put new axle in the reverse order

 

interesting...I never thought you'd get enough clearance. Wonder why helms had me go to all that trouble?

Personally I'd feel safer not removing the axle nut. It's a pain, you risk bending the threads on the axle (granted my friend was an impatient dumbass), and most ppl don't have a 36 mm socket lying around.

 

taking the tie rod off will make it easier for this guy as it allows the wheel to pivot giving him more room to get the axle out. That is how I replaced mine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YeuEmMaiMai &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">taking the tie rod off will make it easier for this guy as it allows the wheel to pivot giving him more room to get the axle out. That is how I replaced mine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you can do that with the tie rod still attached...listen to the Helms

 

I'm about to start this project, but in the manual for Chilton, it doesn't say how big the wheel nut is. Anyone got the info on this? That is, the center nut, not the lug nuts...