Well, that was tonight's project, and we started at around 9:30. Just finished now, 2 hrs later, and it was hard as hell. The car itself has a b20 block, and had a DC Header that got cracked to ****. I bought the Megan header thinkin this wouldn't be too tough, manage to get it out after moving a few other things outta the way, and now, the new header didn't clear this long piece along the bottom of the front. Don't know what it's called, but it has two rods that go to the LCA on each front wheel. It also has a motor mount on it. Since that wasn't working out, we marked it and unbolted it, and when I have my exhaust put on tomorrow I will have them grind that part out. Right now it's just a vent... maybe I'll post some pics up tomorrow.

The fun part is I get to drive slow w/ open header tomorrow to go have the exhaust done... lol.

This shows why you should always schedule a little extra time.

 

cut a box out where it meets the header
its the traction bars

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by importdude2000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cut a box out where it meets the header
its the traction bars</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm guessing this is normal then when it comes to the DA. I'm gonna drive it down to the shop w/out them and I have it marked out where they need to cut. It just kinda sucks that it doesn't "fit" right in there. Thx though, I was wondering what the hell that was.

 

Yeah, it's normal to have to cut the front crossmember when you install a 4-1 header on a DA. There are numerous threads about it from g2ic.com and here. Here is a pic of how a g2ic'er did his with a JUN header, pretty clean.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by purplegsr (Exospeed) &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah, it's normal to have to cut the front crossmember when you install a 4-1 header on a DA. There are numerous threads about it from g2ic.com and here. Here is a pic of how a g2ic'er did his with a JUN header, pretty clean.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thx for the pix, that will help when I go back to the shop. I drove it this morning, and wow, I think everyone should try driving open header sometime in their lifetime. It's ******* awesome. Except I couldn't floor it for the fear of a headache lol.

Anyway, I got to the muffler shop and dropped it off, ordered the following from the guy:
- 2.5" Mandrel Bent from the Header
- 2.5" Test Pipe w/ flanges
- 2.5" Resonator
- Mount my 3" In/Out Borla Muffler

He took a look at the traction bar in the back and got worried. "I don't like seeing that in the back seat" was what he said, I told him just cut it and I will put it back. Either that or I will have to get the sawzall out at home lol.

Thx everyone for the help, I'm feeling better now!

Oh yea, and if you take the traction bars out, when you turn the wheel, it doesn't turn back.

 

You're driving your DA around without the front crossmember?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jasper_db1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You're driving your DA around without the front crossmember?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Only to get it to the shop. I didn't have much of a choice because they wouldn't mess w/ the header, so I had to already have the header on there. I made it and everything, and now the exhaust is installed. It's hella loud though, so now I'm gonna be on the market for a quieter muffler, whenever I can replenish my funds. The guy did all of the work stated in my last post and even cut and fit the crossmember around the header and put it back on for me. They do some damn good work!