ok so the story is like this.

1994 Dx 5spd coupe

Stock D15B7... P06 ECU

Motor blows a head gasket, look into how much it would cost to replace a head gasket, and blah I wanted Vtec anyways so I was like hey lemme find a Full Z6 minus tranny and do a swap.

Find a Complete Z6 off a local H-T member...sweet,

Then need Z6 harness, and ECU.

ECU- i went on ebay and found a "working P28" paid 83.00 shipped....coo

Found a Z6 harness off a local H-T....word

get old motor out, and start changing everything over, TPS and MAP on the Z6 tb were busted so i grabbed my D15B7 TB and put it on the Z6, also the oilpan had some ghetto rigged turbo oil line tap in it... so i switched my oilpan too.

Start to put the wiring harness on when I realize that the oil pressure switch plug is missing....made me say WTF out loud. Look at the B7 wire harness and notice that the plug is attached to a yellow/red stripe wire... so i looked at the wiring on the car...yellow/red stripe is there... look at the harness... yellow/red stripe is there too.. so i start cutting the ribbed covering open to follow the wire.. and the **** was cut off, so I cut mine off the B7 harness and then solder it onto the Z6 harness, then plug it in then move on.

get everything in tranny... motor, fill it with fluids and ****. Turn the key let the pump prime up...turn the key and the check engine light FLICKERS... not flashes.. like RAPIDLY FLICKERS. The car cranks, but doesnt turn over, the plug wires are new, and in teh right order, all the grounds are present and good.


Now, this is what we have found out so far.

It only does this witht he P28 ECU, the P06 doesnt make the CEL flicker.. or come on at all.

With the P28 the Dizzy plugs arent getting any power.

With the P06 the Dizzy plugs are getting power... but still no spark.

80 amp battery fuse blew for some reason... but we replaced it and re-tried everything... no dice.

Whatever we do the motor cranks... but doesnt turn over.

Please help this is my daily driver and i need this resolved NOW.

Thanks in advance.

 

get book (chilton or helms) out and test ignition module in the dizzy. or if it is a hitachi dizzy, find another hitachi and borrow thiers for a minute to see if it fires up

 

does that explain why the ECU is acting all wierd tho??

 

I'm not doing anything today. I can bring my hatch over with a D15B7 and you can test some parts off my car if you'd like.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by litterbox &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm not doing anything today. I can bring my hatch over with a D15B7 and you can test some parts off my car if you'd like.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i'm in NoVA and the car is in fredericksburg

 

Is it possible you bought a bum ECU?

 

heres some advice...get a b18 motor... haha

look around for a haynes book. "Based on a complete teardown and rebuild" it helped me out alot...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jlacoy82 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is it possible you bought a bum ECU?</TD></TR></TABLE>

leaning toward that possibility.

 

Bump. Hope you get this all resolved soon.

 

Ok I am the guy who is doing the swap for DX Burnout King's car. Maybe I can shed some light on the subject.

We got the swap in all wired up. Turn the key to the ON position, and the CEL goes nuts, not like flashing but flikering like he stated earlier. So we put in his old ecu (p06) and it doesnt flicker no more.

NOW...when the p28 was in, i put a test light up to the plugs where the dizzy connects to, and no power. Swapped ECU's and I got power. So #1 im thinking the p28 is fried #2 the ign coil is possibly bad.


Please share your thoughts.

 

when you guys changed the harness did you change the whole harness or just the engine harness??????

go back and check all your grounds??????

sure the engine you were sold is good??????

timing off?????????????

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eghatch4sale &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when you guys changed the harness did you change the whole harness or just the engine harness??????

go back and check all your grounds??????

sure the engine you were sold is good??????

timing off????????????? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Engine was pulled out of a running Si Hatch 2-3 weeks ago.

Grounds have been checked and triple checked...dont think its the grounds.

Timing...shouldnt be off but I guess we can check that.... not sure if it would explain the FLICKERING CEL.

by harness I mean the engine harness...we added 2 wires to the factory harness to wire up VTEC.

 

Mabe the flickering CEL is from a bad ecu. P28 is what comes from d16z6, right? I'd let you use mine, but I'm all the way down in mechanicsville.

 

If you got a p28, make sure you wire up the 4 wire oxygen sensor correctly, and your vtec solenoid is wired up to A4 i believe and is grounded. I Just did this swap on a cx, and that was all I needed to do, everything else was wired up properly.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nota-ex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Mabe the flickering CEL is from a bad ecu. P28 is what comes from d16z6, right? I'd let you use mine, but I'm all the way down in mechanicsville.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i just need a confirmation on this.. before I go buying another ECU.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MugenHonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you got a p28, make sure you wire up the 4 wire oxygen sensor correctly, and your vtec solenoid is wired up to A4 i believe and is grounded. I Just did this swap on a cx, and that was all I needed to do, everything else was wired up properly.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea we did the plug to A4 and D6....

whats this about the Oxygen sensor tho??

 

p28 requires you to install the 4 wires oxygen sensor.
There are two black wires, and two different plugs, if you start your car and it shuts off automatically, you need to switch the black wires from the o2 sensor.
I forgot the pin outs though

 

oh.. well the car never even started up...we arent getting any spark from the dizzy. it'll crank and crank and crank but wont start up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DxBurnoutKing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just need a confirmation on this.. before I go buying another ECU. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I really wish I was closer to you, I'd let you hook up my ECU.

 

oh almost forgot to add..

We tried the jumper thing to try to see what codes the ECU is throwing... and it wouldnt even do that.

 

Id say either a bad ECU, or a bad ground someplace. I had the same problem in a friends DX with the same swap. Turns out the ground ontop of the thermostat housing was bad and wasnt making a good ground. Fixed that and everything was good.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_Ej &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Id say either a bad ECU, or a bad ground someplace. I had the same problem in a friends DX with the same swap. Turns out the ground ontop of the thermostat housing was bad and wasnt making a good ground. Fixed that and everything was good.</TD></TR></TABLE>

How can I tell if a ground is bad..and how do I fix it?

 

I think it's an ECU and dizzy problem. You're not getting spark with either ECU, and with the P28 you get no power to the dizzy. I'd say get a known good ECU and dizzy from someone. Check for loose grounds, grounds that aren't touching bare metal, and grounds that could be torn/shorted.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dubster99 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think it's an ECU and dizzy problem. You're not getting spark with either ECU, and with the P28 you get no power to the dizzy. I'd say get a known good ECU and dizzy from someone. Check for loose grounds, grounds that aren't touching bare metal, and grounds that could be torn/shorted.</TD></TR></TABLE>

none of the grounds are loose, we sanded each and every single gorund point, so they are all connected well. How do I tell if they are torn/shorted???

 

If you have a multimeter, set it to ohms and touch each end of the ground, a good ground will be 0 ohms or JUST slightly above that, shouldnt be though. If you are reading much higher than a few tenths of an ohm, theres some resistance problem with your wire/connectors.

 

along shot but it is possible that the main relay took a **** are you getting fuel just no spark??????? was the distributor known to be a working one was it in the si?????