I'm considering the Koni 3011s as an upgrade to my tired Teins and just wanted to hear from people currently using them, or those who've used them, or those that just know more about this shock than I do.
My questions then are:

1, Do they have a threaded body and a built in perch ? Like Teins?
2, How was the install? Straightforward? I'm not going to run the inverted version, just the standard.
3, Where are the adj. ***** for rebound and compression?
4, What length of service life should I expect b/w rebuilds?
5, Anyone have exp. with using these on the street?
6, General thoughts, comments, observations, words to the wise?

Thanks.

I wanted to get a better jist from people using these, before I called Mr. Grimes with a 1001 innane questions.

 

General answer-go to the Koni website. Call them if that does not help. As to service life on the street-the warranty is good for as long as you own them. Rebound is adjusted with a **** on top. btw: It is the only brand we use.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bb6h22a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
1, Do they have a threaded body and a built in perch ? Like Teins?
2, How was the install? Straightforward? I'm not going to run the inverted version, just the standard.
3, Where are the adj. ***** for rebound and compression?
4, What length of service life should I expect b/w rebuilds?
5, Anyone have exp. with using these on the street?
6, General thoughts, comments, observations, words to the wise? </TD></TR></TABLE>

1) The 3011s are a non-threaded steel body with a provision for a coil-over sleeve system. The steel body allows us more flexability for welding to the various Honda mounting requirements. The 3012 is mechanically the same but is aluminum boodied and threaded however it requires the use of the spherical bearing mount on the end of the shock body and is not conducive to easy mounting on a Honda.
2) When the 3011s are built for that car, they would install just like any other shock. They are mono-tube high pressure gas so they will not be easy to compress by hand. If you corner weight your car, you will want to do this after the shocks are installed.
3) Rebound will adjust at the tip of the shock rod up in the car and can be adjusted on the car. Compression adjusts at a button at the top of the body next to where the rod goes in. To adjust compression, the shock and spring must be removed.
4) Very long. The more appropriate question is "How often do you crash and damage the shocks?" These things are pretty well bullet proof and will normally go many years between any need for service. They are used by a lot of racing schools because they are so tough and consistent.
5) They should wear just fine on the street but I can't make a real claims about ride quality as they are going to be valved primailty for racing. We do use many of these parts (not the double adjustable parts or these specific valvings) for a number of our street applications that are called the 30 series.
6) They are good, tough, reliable, have the biggest adjustment range around, etc. One could argue that it is about the most versatile racing shock in the industry as they have many F1 wins, SCCA Solo II championships, Pike Peak hill climb wins, on the front end of Craig Breedlove's Spirit of America rocket car, were our NASCAR shock until it got outlawed for being too internally technical in the late '90s, etc., etc. They do have to be custom built for your fitment so they are not on the shelf and will require some lead time. The biggest and only real strike against them is that access to the compression adjuster on the car is not possible owever rebound is really the main tool that you are going to be tuning with. Once you get your compression in the ballpark, you don't change it much.

995 questions to go...


Modified by CRX Lee at 7:45 PM 4/18/2005

 

In case you didn't know, CRX Lee works for Koni.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crack Monkey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In case you didn't know, CRX Lee works for Koni.</TD></TR></TABLE>
He did mention my name in the first post so I figured he knew that.

 

doh!

 

We're using the (normally mounted) 3011s on this car. It looks like Lee already answered your questions thoroughly. Here are some additional observations.

The 3011s are strong. Noticeably stronger than the single adjustable Konis that we ran on our old CRX and also for one weekend on our Integra. It's also apparent right away that the adjustment ranges on the 3011s have a very significant effect on both compression and rebound. They are strong enough that by half way in the rebound adjustment range the 3011s are already able to keep the loaded spring compressed for a short while even on the straight after exiting a turn (which btw is way too much low speed rebound.) This is on a car with spring rate in the 1000 lbs range. While the point of too much compression is reached about three quarters into its adjustment range. Bottom line, from full soft on both adjustments to full stiff, there is quite a considerably adjustment range. Finally, our rain setup involves changes in compression on the shocks. However once you got the routine down on how to do adjust this on the 3011s, you can do it in about fifteen minutes. I first ran these 3011 shocks (the inverted version) on a CRX I co-drove for a season a few years ago and I liked them. So we couldn't go wrong by running them on the Integra.