idle drops at red light
i just noticed my idle dropped, but it doesn't happen all the time... my oil level is topped up... other than the burning oil preludes consume i think my car is fine, it only happen once out of the 20-30 mins of driving.. what could the problem be?
its just starting to get warm in ATL. Theres a good chance that its your EGR valve.
Symptoms of a bad EGR Valve:
-Car starts and idle is fine when started cold
-Once at operating temperature if you let off the gas (ex: at red light) the engine will idle very low and sometimes die
-Sometimes a fautly EGR valve will work OK during the winter when its cold outside, but once it warms up it will cause problems.
good luck!
brad
Symptoms of a bad EGR Valve:
-Car starts and idle is fine when started cold
-Once at operating temperature if you let off the gas (ex: at red light) the engine will idle very low and sometimes die
-Sometimes a fautly EGR valve will work OK during the winter when its cold outside, but once it warms up it will cause problems.
good luck!
brad
I've seen about 4 posts, including one of my own, about this problem in this week alone. My car is at the dealership right now, I'll let you guys know what it is tomorrow when they give me a ring.
thats weird i completely took my egr vavle off, and put one of those plates over it, and my idle is a little shitty but it never dies...i actually never have much problems at all.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pr0jektLude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats weird i completely took my egr vavle off, and put one of those plates over it, and my idle is a little shitty but it never dies...i actually never have much problems at all.
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yeah my idle is real crappy...i'll try to disconnect the egr tomorrow to see if it helps...when its cold it surges then once it warms up it will idle real low and die sometimes...it sucks!
its behind the distributor, next to the fuel rail. It has a 3-pin harness and one small vacuum line that runs to it and it sits on top of the intake manifold, passenger side.
brad
brad
I have had this problem with my h22 for the longest. Everytime i get to a redlight or push in the clutch, the rpms will drop and bottom out at like 300rpms and then come back up to normal idle. it drives me nuts, but i have gotten use to it. I would like to find a fix to it. But lately it not only falls off, it starts reving up and down like there is a vaccum leak, but I know that there isnt. It will smooth out eventually or I can feather in the clutch and then release the clutch and it will stop and idle normal. I too would like to find a fix to this as well.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmlude_dude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have had this problem with my h22 for the longest. Everytime i get to a redlight or push in the clutch, the rpms will drop and bottom out at like 300rpms and then come back up to normal idle. it drives me nuts, but i have gotten use to it. I would like to find a fix to it. But lately it not only falls off, it starts reving up and down like there is a vaccum leak, but I know that there isnt. It will smooth out eventually or I can feather in the clutch and then release the clutch and it will stop and idle normal. I too would like to find a fix to this as well.</TD></TR></TABLE>
My EGR is blocked off, and I have my car idling at 950RPM give or take as opposed to the 750 - 800RPM factory idle. At 950RPM idle, I have no more problems.
My EGR is blocked off, and I have my car idling at 950RPM give or take as opposed to the 750 - 800RPM factory idle. At 950RPM idle, I have no more problems.
no egr did not work for me....it helped...but it still stalls sometimes.....sometimes it will idle at around 950 which is what i want...sometimes it will idle 1,500...sometimes it will surge from 1,000-2,000 and most of the times it dies unless i keep my foot on the gas....wtf...this sucks...any1 got any ideas?? can it be the fast idle valve goin bad?
how would i block off my EGR? Will it throw a code? Will it cause my idle to purge and rev up and down? I am very eager to get it fixed. I can try it today as soon as i know how and report back.
you can try replacing the pcv valve. You can tell if its blocked by having the engine run and take a set of pliars and clamp the hose connecting the pcv to the IM. If it is working correctly you will hear a "clack" sound of the metal ball inside. If not you wont here anything. You can also check out your intake and see if its oil consumed (indicator of blowby) that is usually another indicator of pcv failure, and without changing the pcv it can cause blow by and ultimately really mess up your crank. Another thing you may need to do is change you plugs or wires (A common fix for factory wires that are over 35,000) to some NGKs or other 8mm+ low resistance wires. Problems with these items can cause the fluctuation or the tach, or stalling during restarting or coming to a stop. Hope this helps.
^^you know what, this motivates me to overhaul my ignition stuff....
i have the same problem, no egr, and no vac leaks.....
im gonna get a new cap/rotor, wires, and probably plugs....
i will post up if that works, if not, hell, i could use it....
i have the same problem, no egr, and no vac leaks.....
im gonna get a new cap/rotor, wires, and probably plugs....
i will post up if that works, if not, hell, i could use it....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^^you know what, this motivates me to overhaul my ignition stuff....
i have the same problem, no egr, and no vac leaks.....
im gonna get a new cap/rotor, wires, and probably plugs....
i will post up if that works, if not, hell, i could use it....</TD></TR></TABLE>
My setup with regards to this problem:
No EGR
No Vac Leaks
Cap and Rotor: Bought it Remanufactured 1 Year Ago
NGK Spark Plug Wires
NGK BKR7E-11 Spark Plugs
ACT Streetlight 12lb Flywheel
Tuned w/ Hondata
Idle is at 1000RPM in Neutral and Brakes NOT Depressed
Idle is at 950RPM with the Brakes Depressed
Idle is around 800 - 900 RPM at night w/ Brakes Depressed and Headlights On
Idle is around 700 - 750 RPM at night w/ Brakes Depressed, Headlights On, and Fan On
No problems with surging idle.
i have the same problem, no egr, and no vac leaks.....
im gonna get a new cap/rotor, wires, and probably plugs....
i will post up if that works, if not, hell, i could use it....</TD></TR></TABLE>
My setup with regards to this problem:
No EGR
No Vac Leaks
Cap and Rotor: Bought it Remanufactured 1 Year Ago
NGK Spark Plug Wires
NGK BKR7E-11 Spark Plugs
ACT Streetlight 12lb Flywheel
Tuned w/ Hondata
Idle is at 1000RPM in Neutral and Brakes NOT Depressed
Idle is at 950RPM with the Brakes Depressed
Idle is around 800 - 900 RPM at night w/ Brakes Depressed and Headlights On
Idle is around 700 - 750 RPM at night w/ Brakes Depressed, Headlights On, and Fan On
No problems with surging idle.
indeed, i have an MSD cap, brand new distributor, MSD wires, NGKr plugs and MSD blaster coil. I dont think it is my ignition!! LOL. It has to be an air mixture problem, that is all i can think of. Pretty sure my crank isnt messed up as well. I have to run my distributor timing as high as it will go in order for it to run good. It still has a miss, but idles all crazy. I am going to mess with some stuff tomorrow and i will report back witht the results.


