Accord Lowering Spring Install - Complications - Things That Help
Hey guys,
Everything went pretty smoothly, took us about 6-7 hours, really b/c we read everything first, then started.
Neuspeed Sports going onto a 96 Honda Accord LX Sedan - Est. Drop - 1.7 in the front & 1.5 in the rear.
Complicatons:
1. Before you even start taking anything off, you first have to secure everything because you are going to have to get under the car. The problem was that we couldn't find a solid enough spot to place a jack underneath so we could fit the jackstands under, just ding around till you feel/hear a solid spot that won't flex. We just used it as a temporary till we could fit the jackstands underneath, after that we removed the temporary jack. Be sure to secure the car w/ blocks depending on which side is up.
2. Be sure to remember the order of your washers/etc after you pull them off the stabilizer bar. We took this precaution, and yet somehow we still got it confused. We got it back how it was supposed to be, but it might save you time to just remember before you start.
3. To get to the rear struts you have to pull down your backseat, then procede to "pull" the side cushions if you will. You have to pull them down, it's the padding that the seatbelt goes over. Then there are going to be two black panels that you have to pull off as well to access the two nuts that hold the rear strut.
4. We didn't make this mistake, but remember which strut goes to which side, I don't really know if switching them would have any adverse affects, but I just wouldn't recommned it.
5. To get the nut off the top of the rear struts (to remove the springs) you have to get a clamp of some sort and then work it off w/ a wrench. It's a lock nut so it's not easy to take off, we used some liquid pentrator to lube it up a bit. That alone took us about 30 minutes nerding with the first rear, but the second one went much smoother, you'll find that to be the case when you're doing this or any install, the first is a learning experience, after that it's cake.
Things that helped the install:
Haynes Manual - $14.95 at your local Autozone - This was a very good source of information, the instructions are step by step, install, un-install. The pictures are okay, but you should be able to get the jist of it from their pretty thorough instructions.
*IMPORTANT*
<u>Strut Spring Compressor</u> - I would highly recommend using a spring compressor because there is a lot of pressure built up on the spring/strut so you could severely injure yourself if you aren't careful. I rented it from the same Autozone that I got the Haynes manual from. It cost like $43.XX after taxes, and you get it back if you return the tool in good shape. So I don't really see why you wouldn't.
*IMPORTANT*
Helper/Other Hand - There are a couple positions where it's hard to hold the nut while you unscrew the bolt or screw, so it helps to have someone to hold one while you do the other. Taking turns work the spring compressor helps too, you'll see what I mean after pumping 2 springs off and you realize you have 2 more to go. Props to my pops, he was able to take some of the bolts that I couldn't get off, very good to have.
Overall the install was a success, it took us a little longer than it may have for most, but we took our time and I think that had a lot to do with it. Go slow and be safe, and in the end it'll all be worth it. The ride is a little bumpy right now, I imagine that will subside once they get broken in.
I ordered a set of 17' rims today so they should be in around this time next week. I'll take pictures then.
If anyone has any questions about the install, let me know I'll try to help you out since my memory is fresh.
[Modified by ForcedAccord, 10:24 PM 1/30/2002]
Everything went pretty smoothly, took us about 6-7 hours, really b/c we read everything first, then started.
Neuspeed Sports going onto a 96 Honda Accord LX Sedan - Est. Drop - 1.7 in the front & 1.5 in the rear.
Complicatons:
1. Before you even start taking anything off, you first have to secure everything because you are going to have to get under the car. The problem was that we couldn't find a solid enough spot to place a jack underneath so we could fit the jackstands under, just ding around till you feel/hear a solid spot that won't flex. We just used it as a temporary till we could fit the jackstands underneath, after that we removed the temporary jack. Be sure to secure the car w/ blocks depending on which side is up.
2. Be sure to remember the order of your washers/etc after you pull them off the stabilizer bar. We took this precaution, and yet somehow we still got it confused. We got it back how it was supposed to be, but it might save you time to just remember before you start.
3. To get to the rear struts you have to pull down your backseat, then procede to "pull" the side cushions if you will. You have to pull them down, it's the padding that the seatbelt goes over. Then there are going to be two black panels that you have to pull off as well to access the two nuts that hold the rear strut.
4. We didn't make this mistake, but remember which strut goes to which side, I don't really know if switching them would have any adverse affects, but I just wouldn't recommned it.
5. To get the nut off the top of the rear struts (to remove the springs) you have to get a clamp of some sort and then work it off w/ a wrench. It's a lock nut so it's not easy to take off, we used some liquid pentrator to lube it up a bit. That alone took us about 30 minutes nerding with the first rear, but the second one went much smoother, you'll find that to be the case when you're doing this or any install, the first is a learning experience, after that it's cake.
Things that helped the install:
Haynes Manual - $14.95 at your local Autozone - This was a very good source of information, the instructions are step by step, install, un-install. The pictures are okay, but you should be able to get the jist of it from their pretty thorough instructions.
*IMPORTANT*
<u>Strut Spring Compressor</u> - I would highly recommend using a spring compressor because there is a lot of pressure built up on the spring/strut so you could severely injure yourself if you aren't careful. I rented it from the same Autozone that I got the Haynes manual from. It cost like $43.XX after taxes, and you get it back if you return the tool in good shape. So I don't really see why you wouldn't.
*IMPORTANT*
Helper/Other Hand - There are a couple positions where it's hard to hold the nut while you unscrew the bolt or screw, so it helps to have someone to hold one while you do the other. Taking turns work the spring compressor helps too, you'll see what I mean after pumping 2 springs off and you realize you have 2 more to go. Props to my pops, he was able to take some of the bolts that I couldn't get off, very good to have.
Overall the install was a success, it took us a little longer than it may have for most, but we took our time and I think that had a lot to do with it. Go slow and be safe, and in the end it'll all be worth it. The ride is a little bumpy right now, I imagine that will subside once they get broken in.
I ordered a set of 17' rims today so they should be in around this time next week. I'll take pictures then.
If anyone has any questions about the install, let me know I'll try to help you out since my memory is fresh.
[Modified by ForcedAccord, 10:24 PM 1/30/2002]
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ForcedAccord
Honda Accord (1990 - 2002)
21
Jan 31, 2002 09:05 AM
2002, 94, accord, compressor, compressors, dont, fit, front, honda, install, installion, lowering, problem, spring, springs




