OK I'm in trouble now.

I'm in over my head, and I need the help of some experienced people.

I was forced in swapping in my B18 WAY ahead of schedule, because my B16 suddenly spun a bearing.

So this is where I stand:
The engine is in, but it doesn't do jack ****.

I was determined to use the OBD1 engine harness that came with the B18C4, wich is basically an EDM spec GSR. So I de-pinned all my OBD-0 plugs on the firewall, and re-pinned them into the OBD1 receptacles on the engine harness.

I am well aware that this is "the hard way", but I am religiously opposed to cutting wires. Especially on an engine harness.

So... I've made a firewall conversion diagram....wich appeared to work out great.
Except I had some wires left over on the car side. (most likely aircon wires and stuff??) All of the engine harness wires have been filled.

So I turn the key.... KRRRR....nothing. No fuelpump,nothing.
The engine cranks tho. Seems like the oil light works too, but that's about it.

I need some people who can help me verify my conversion diagram with me, and complete the B18C1/4 conversion write-up.

I am willing to post all info here for all to see eventually, after everything has been confirmed. So please...contact me so I can send you my files. Help appreciated greatly!

MSN: seti_bbig@hotmail.com
AIM: SETIBBIG

 

Also, a question about the coolant lines and the TPS sensor;

How the hell do you make that fit? My TPS is wedged onto the heater hose on the firewall. I knew this was going to be a tight fit, but this is insane! Same for the fuel lines....

 

skunk2 mani, solve the tight fit problem, cant help ya with the other info tho, sorry and bump for you

 

bump it up . email me the files and ill do my best. it sounds like some components not getting power.

 

up up

 

So you are using a gsr map sensor in the eng harness? How does that work without cutting wires? the stock crx map is on the interior harness? Did you use the gsr interior harness too? As far as the tps, the heater hose clears on the usdm chassis with the hasport kit, what kit are you using? What codes are you getting? Did you check for spark, and fuel?

 

update:

I found a few mistakes in my firewall conversion.
I now have power to the punp etc.
It primes,....and I hear the main relay clicking, just like it's supposed to...but I don't have spark, nor do the injectors spray.
...and then the relay blew. So obviously there's something really wrong there. I also heard what sounded like the vtec solenoid shorting out but unplugging all the sensors, still no spark.

I used the CRX map wires. I de-pinned the crx map, and I hooked it up to the GSR engine wiring harness on the proper pin locations.
I'm not getting any codes. (yet)

 

so using an obd conversion harness was out of the question?

I runined my first ecu by trying to use the jdm SiR harness when i did my b16 swap. it ran for about a week, then mysteriously shorted out.

a HT member had a crx SI interior harness, and i got a crx SI engine harness off ebay, bought a new pr3, threw all the dx **** away and then added the changes needed for the b16 to factory crx harness.

why? simple. when i made my changes, if it didnt start, i come on here and ask what i did wrong bc everyone else does it that way, unless they send out the harness to hasport or rywire to have it done for them.

for you, at this point you need to know where all the wires for that ecu should be going. your going to need an electrical supplement from helms for that car that engine is taken from. the regular helms will most likley have one diagram of the ecu clips, with the wires labeled, but often it wont show you any routing info, and be very unclear about a wire that goes to more then one place, thats really why theres a seperate 125 page electrical supplement.

what helms are you currently using as a reference?

to be honest, you really made your life suck by doing it this way, but please dont take that in an insulting way, im just admiting to having done the same thing, and it wasnt the right way to do it. its basically uncharted waters now, your gonna need to sit there with a digital multimeter and run continuity checks on every single wire of that ecu harness now.

make sure its getting ground where it needs, 12 volt, and ignition. then move on to the sensors/injectors checking each of them one at a time.

your not running a resistor box right? check the main relay connections, it shares a ground with the obd0 ecu. might have been cause for the shorted relay. unfortunatley your an ocean away, i would love to help.

good look seti


Modified by doublethink at 10:35 PM 4/17/2005

 

sorry seti. I wish i could have helped ya more. This is what you are going to hear pretty much everywhere. buy me a plane ticket and i'll come over and help. ( i just wanna smoke some amsterdamn reefer once in my life hehe)

4sillypwr

 

Now I think about it... the resistor box, wich I no longer use, had a yellow/blk wire on it....and I can't remember where I hooked it up, if I hooked it ip at all. I know I routed a new temporary ground to one of the wires on the new harness I made.

In retrospect, I should have made rywire the harness like I wanted it to. ( I HATE CUTTING A B16 HARNESS TO FIT A B18!!! )
...unfortunately I dod not know about them until a few days ago. I spent a good sum of money on a boomslang ECU OBD conversion harness, plus an obd0-obd0 (yes you read that right) extention harness to wire my wideband in. That is how much I hate cutting an OEM harness.

These old wires are brittle especially in our climate , and by more than one experience I know that you just need to leave it alone.
If I hadn't been rushed into this and had more time to figure out wiring in advance, instead of having to do it on the spot...I wouldn't be having this much problems.

Really....in retrospect it's not as much of a big deal as it sounds. As it stands now, I have had to extend 2 wires. Noting more. All others just pin straight into the OBD1 plugs.

....once you know what goes where.


Atleast it LOOKS good.

 

oh i hope you used a obd1 dizzy with an obd1 ecu. or obd0 ecu and dizzy. injectors and spark fires when they have the proper inputs to the ecu which is from the crank,tdc,cylinder pos. sensors.(in the dizzy).

 

oh find that yel/blk wire. that is ignition power. there are a few. one powers the injectors. check for power to the injectors. you should have 12v ignition on.

 

SETI, I have a GSR swap in my 90 crx, no skunk2, and I just shimmed all my problems out of the way with little metal brackets from OSH :D

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by egtwincam &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh find that yel/blk wire. that is ignition power. there are a few. one powers the injectors. check for power to the injectors. you should have 12v ignition on.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The dizzy has power. That big fat huge blk/yel wire goes there. (OBD1 dizzy brand new, and P30 ECU using a P72 fuelmap)

I traced the injector grounds. But not the power. I have a yel/blk wre left over that used to run to the injector resistor box.

 

I'm guessing that the ECU isn't getting power....

 

I was right... had 3 wires mixed up, and I was 1 ground wire short. Also my ignition does not compare to any OBD wiring conversion I've seen. So we had to search for each wire by hand.....

I'm happy...now it's time for the finishing touches. Still tons to do!

 

awsome , tell us how it runs when its done , good luck

 

Good job man!

 

Update:









Engine back in tomorrow

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SETI20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Update:




Engine back in tomorrow </TD></TR></TABLE>


I love how a few singled out wires are labeled. Then the massive wad of wires has a question mark on it


J/K. Nice work

 

haha, yeah that was specially for dramatic purposes :D

 

Glad to see you're back on track. so is everything squared away?

 

Putting the engine back in, the dude operating the hoist accidentally opened up the valve, and the engine dropped.

Miraculously it didn't **** anything up, and actually got positioned just right.

But I think something got pulled loose.. because now she won't start. Got a code 15. Looks like an ignition wire got pulled...ot the plug got damaged.

More tomorrow.

 

Nice to see a fellow ditchman over here !!! Goodluck with your swap !!!

 

GoodJOB Seti!
Cant wait to see when you get done with it! hehe. its going to be so much different than that b16.. especially on the e-ways.. or whatever you call em in Holland! hehe.