This installation and performance review is in reference to my 2001 Integra GSR. I bought this car for a daily driver, but I had to modify a couple of things...

After the requisite full coilovers and a nice shiny fart can, it was time for a Cold Air Intake.

At the top of my list was the K&N FIPK2. According to the dyno, it adds 5.5 horsepower and it's a very simple installation. This intake is basically a short ram with a shroud around it to block out heat from the engine. Sounds good, right? Well, let's see, Motorstate didn't have it and Summit didn't have it, so I tried Nopi. Without going into details, they said they had it but didn't.

Knowing I was going to test and tune on Friday 4/15, and I still hadn't received my intake on 4/12 I decided to buy any quality intake that I could find in stock and ready to ship. Motorstate and Summit didn't have any AEM short rams so I looked for V2s. The price was quite a bit higher than the short rams and even the FIPK2, but I decided I'd take whatever I could get quickly. Since Nopi made the mistake on my previous order, I gave them the opportunity to make it right. They gave me a discount on the V2 to offset the cost of UPS Next Day Air freight.

So what's this V2 deal all about? Well, as listed on http://www.aempower.com,

"The AEM V2 Intake utilizes a dual chamber (using two different diameters and lengths of piping), to create multiple frequency sound waves that help charge the cylinders with air throughout the entire rpm range."

Well, that sounds cool, but I was a bit agitated about going over my budget on this project. Anyway, the AEM V2 is good for 2.2 hp more than the K&N, so I let it ride. Unfortunately I was not prepared for what happened next. I had the intake shipped to me the day before test and tune night, so I just planned to throw it on the car during my lunch break on Thursday and make sure everything was okay for racing Friday.

As it turns out, the installation was A LOT more complex than I had anticipated! (remember, I'd originally intended to throw a short ram on the car and call it a day) To install the AEM V2, you have to remove the passenger side tire, fender lining, and the black cover under the radiator. Then you have to relocate A/C lines [!], replace the transmission mount [!!], and even one of the coolant lines which required the removal and replacing of about half a gallon of antifreeze. [?!?]. I was like, "you have GOT to be kidding me!?" To top it off, I work in a speed shop in Kentucky that focuses on Dirt Late Model circle track motors, so I was constantly being heckled by my coworkers! :angry:

Good news though! Those guys at AEM know their stuff! The installation was as straight forward and logical as any aftermarket part I've ever done, the instructions were clear and concise, all necessary parts were included, and the fit was GREAT! In one of these pictures you can see why the A/C lines were relocated. With that enlarged second chamber in the intake tube, there is VERY minimal clearance around the intake tube as it goes under the frame rail and behind the bumper. It's close to the A/C lines on the right side, the tranny mount in the back, the frame rail on the left and the coolant tank in the front.



Now the good stuff: you can DEFINITELY feel the difference! It pulls harder, it spins going into second gear a lot more, and the sound is NIIIIIICE!

With only those mods I mentioned and a HORRIBLE sixty foot time of 2.27, the car went 15.3@90.7!

I'm definitely VERY PLEASED with the AEM V2 and I think in retrospect, I'm happier with it than I would've been with the FIPK2. It looks good, it sounds good, and it performs well!

 

thanks for sharing this info; I had no idea you had to relocate all those things to install it

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sharad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'm definitely VERY PLEASED with the AEM V2 and I think in retrospect, I'm happier with it than I would've been with the FIPK2. It looks good, it sounds good, and it performs well! </TD></TR></TABLE>

you might reconsider this statement in a few when your V2 mount breaks, leaving you with a hole in your V2; I've come across a couple threads where people have posted this experience.....this is why I stopped considering this intake.
so keep your receipt, and best of luck
it does look nice though

 

its nice to hear that you like it. i was accually interested in this intake, but when i looked inside of it i wasn't impressed because on the out side it looks like it functions, but it doesn't, but thats just my opinion good to hear you like it

 

Yeah, I was unimpressed when I peaked behind the Wizard of Oz's curtain too (figuratively speaking, of course) but when you think of it, three things are happening.

1. The larger diameter pipe stores already filtered air so when the butterflies open in the intake manifold, that air is available to supply the instantaneous requirement for extra air. Comparing dyno graphs, you can see that at 6000rpm, the AEM graph is smoother.

2. The theory of equalizing sound pulses to even out the airflow is sound in principle. Exhaust companies have shown gains in exhaust flow using this theory. There's no reason it shouldn't apply to intakes.

3. At the very least, the larger diameter pipe allows a larger filter.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sharad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah, I was unimpressed when I peaked behind the Wizard of Oz's curtain too (figuratively speaking, of course) but when you think of it, three things are happening.

1. The larger diameter pipe stores already filtered air so when the butterflies open in the intake manifold, that air is available to supply the instantaneous requirement for extra air. Comparing dyno graphs, you can see that at 6000rpm, the AEM graph is smoother.

2. The theory of equalizing sound pulses to even out the airflow is sound in principle. Exhaust companies have shown gains in exhaust flow using this theory. There's no reason it shouldn't apply to intakes.

but all that matters is you like it

3. At the very least, the larger diameter pipe allows a larger filter.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i think it would perform better if it had some of the concepts of the j's intake...because the piping doesnt perfectly transition into the smaller piping..(funnel or venturi effect), plus i dont believe the dynos that the manufactures perform...i like to see independent dyno

 

What does the V2 do about water? I know the first AEM CAI has an optional bypass you can throw on there...but what about the V2? What happens when you go through a big puddle of water?

 

your car will die, this intake also requires a bypass valve that is separate

 

idea...don't drive through deep water. end of idea.

I see these threads where people ask about this, honestly don't risk it, if you see a big puddle don't drive through it. regardless if the car is stock or not, use your judgement your integra is not an H2.


To the original thread starter, could you post pics of the routing it takes towards the filter?

 

Yeah, the pipe going to the filter makes a 180° turn under the frame rail and back up. The filter is near the top of the fender. If you go through a puddle that deep, you're swimming.

I'll jack it up and post pics for you in a little bit DMX.

 

Well I understand that I shouldn't go through the puddle. I always try to avoid the puddles. I didn't know they even made a bypass valve for the V2. I guess I learned something today....

 

They dont make a bypass valve for the V2. If you read the note at the bottom of the description it tells you it is not compatible with the bypass valve but id imagine it may be possible to alter it and make it fit.

 

Glad to see the butt-dyno is alive and working

 

How much HP does AEM claim the V2 makes over their original CAI?

 

I changed my mind on v2 a long time ago

 

cold air is better imo

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Works Euge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cold air is better imo</TD></TR></TABLE>

What are you talking about?? The V2 is a CAI.

 

Maybe he didnt read the thread, and thought the guy was asking which was better. lol. Read.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cliffjumper2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
you might reconsider this statement in a few when your V2 mount breaks, leaving you with a hole in your V2; I've come across a couple threads where people have posted this experience.....this is why I stopped considering this intake.
so keep your receipt, and best of luck
it does look nice though </TD></TR></TABLE>

umm, it probably broke because they didn't use the included soft mount.

i know, because mine broke for that exact reason.

 

Unfortunately there are situations where water can't be avoided, like here in OC if it rains heavily and you have to get home, the streets flood real bad. I hydrolocked the engine in my last car because I was at the H20 v-dub meet and it started pouring rain. On the drive home there was a 1-2 foot deep puddle that went across the highway. Couldn't avoid it, went through it slowly but to no avail, still hydrolocked the sucker.

 

the v2 looks great and im sure it provides nice power to sound but im afraid of hydrolocking......Ill stick to my short ram HKS filter while sucking in that hot radiator air fan with my ghetto thermal heat wrap around the intake arm

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dmxsoulja3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">idea...don't drive through deep water. end of idea.

I see these threads where people ask about this, honestly don't risk it, if you see a big puddle don't drive through it. regardless if the car is stock or not, use your judgement your integra is not an H2.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

its not always that easy..i was entering a freeway from a onramp and halfway down it was flooded..i couldnt see it at night nor could i reverse out of the onramp when cars are behind you and it was only one lane so there is no way to go around..so i had to drive through it as slowly as possibly..luckily i didnt have an intake at the time

 

your post sounds like a ******* advertisment...

 

one way my friend prevented hydrolocking, when he approached the puddle, he shut his car off, went through it, this was dangerous since he was going around 40mph, off a ramp off I75 and he started his car back up again and went on, and still when he got home, there was a small amount of water in his intake

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by axi0m &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Unfortunately there are situations where water can't be avoided, like here in OC if it rains heavily and you have to get home, the streets flood real bad. I hydrolocked the engine in my last car because I was at the H20 v-dub meet and it started pouring rain. On the drive home there was a 1-2 foot deep puddle that went across the highway. Couldn't avoid it, went through it slowly but to no avail, still hydrolocked the sucker.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You should have pulled up the e-brake and showed us your mAd tYte FF drift skillz, and slid over it sideways that way it wouldn't get in your intake y0!

haha, but seriously I was thinking about that, if you were on a road and you knew no cars were behind you, I wonder if turning around and driving through the puddle in reverse would work. I mean, I know it sounds stupid (and you'd look stupid for doing it), and of course it wouldn't work on deep puddles, but maybe it would keep water from splashing into your intake. Just a thought hahaha

 

anyone have the instructions on how to install this? i just bought one used and it didn't come w/ the instructions so if anyone can help me out... le tme know!