Does this price sound right?

JDM K20A type R is $9,999.00 installed.
Includes: motor, 6spd trans, custom axles, shift linkage, ecu, hondata K-PRO, dyno tune, Hytech header, custom wiring, new oil filter, oil, honda MTF, custom intake and labor.

thank you in advance

 

Do it yourself for a hell of a lot cheaper, but yeah that sounds good I guess.

 

That's right around what Inline Pro is charging for that swap around here on the East Coast.

IMO, you can build a boosted D that's faster and less than 1/3 the price.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by litterbox &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's right around what Inline Pro is charging for that swap around here on the East Coast.

IMO, you can build a boosted D that's faster and less than 1/3 the price.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i want to go n/a

 

Spend that money on a Gs-R turbo and and you will be hitting 11's after mis-shifting

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicgsr209 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Spend that money on a Gs-R turbo and and you will be hitting 11's after mis-shifting </TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kEviNxL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i want to go n/a</TD></TR></TABLE>



Honestly, if you could find someone to help you with the wiring, you could do this swap by yourself. The hardest part of it is the wiring. The manual labor is not that hard.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by litterbox &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's right around what Inline Pro is charging for that swap around here on the East Coast.

IMO, you can build a boosted D that's faster and less than 1/3 the price.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you forgot that you would than be maxed out... now swap the K and boost it, if that's what you're into. will the D touch that? nope.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by deeksmooth &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you forgot that you would than be maxed out... now swap the K and boost it, if that's what you're into. will the D touch that? nope. </TD></TR></TABLE>

thats why he mentioned the price. k series is definately a winner over the d series in power, but not in price.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by deeksmooth &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
you forgot that you would than be maxed out... now swap the K and boost it, if that's what you're into. will the D touch that? nope. </TD></TR></TABLE>Ya, I know. But I'd rather invest the remaining $6,666.00 than blow it on my car. Remember guys, it's all about balance.

But anyway, if you wanna go NA, you could build a badass ls/vtec setup for around 1/3 the price as well.

But, if you're set on the Kswap, the I'd check out kseries.org and talk to Nikos because if you can figure out the wiring, that'd save you a **** ton of labor. The guy at Inline Pro that did a Kswap spent the whole day making the wiring harness. It's pretty simple if you know what to do (ie have the correct instructions), so if you can do that part over the shop doing it, you'd save some big bucks right there.

Best of luck in whatever endeavor you choose.

 

Why does everyone ask if the K is worth the money? And why does someone always say "you can build [insert engine] for a lot less that will beat it?

If you got the money, K series is the best way to go and has the most potential. If you don't have the money, you can build a B or D series that will whoop for the same amount of money...but won't have the same max potential.

As for the price, for the complete install it sounds like a fair price. However, I'm one for doing **** myself. And I'd rather spend 2 weeks doing the swap alone than pay 2-3k extra for someone else to. There's a book that supposedly covers K-series swaps, can't think of the name sorry.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jorsher &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why does everyone ask if the K is worth the money? And why does someone always say "you can build [insert engine] for a lot less that will beat it?
</TD></TR></TABLE>Because most people that ask if it's worth it are pipe dreamers and people tell them another realistic option that'd be compatible with what they're after.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jorsher &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There's a book that supposedly covers K-series swaps, can't think of the name sorry.</TD></TR></TABLE>God, that's like the biggest **** tease ever.

 

Yea, but the thing is every post there are multiple people that say you can build this engine to beat that for less money. I would hope that most people could figure that out.

It's in one of my magazines, the book, I'll try to find it.

 

Welcome to EG+, where redundancy reigns supreme.

 

Yeah, I've noticed. the "post new topic" button should redirect to search :-\

Anyway, that book is creatively titled, "Honda Engine Swaps", the little description says: "About to embark on your very own Honda engine swap adventure? 'Honda Engine Swaps' by Aaron Bonk, former owner of Holeshot Racing in Anaheim, Calif., is the consummate Honda swap compendium. It covers the most popular Honda models in depth--including Civic, Integra, Prelude, and Accord--and provides step-by-step instructions for all major tasks involved in the swap. It also provides crucial information on costs, design considerations and adaptibility, as well as vital stats and information on electrical systems, fit and drivetrain compatibility. If you're planning on putting a different engine inside your Honda chassis, this book is definately for you."

Cover says "JDM and USDM H, B, D, K, and ZC series Swaps into Civics, Integras, Accords, and Preludes."

Can be found at http://www.cartechbooks.com.

 

Great info.

 

Better link : http://www.cartechbooks.com/vs...ID=13

If anyone has used this book lemme know if it's worth the money

 

Ordered one a few minutes ago for just under $13 at Amazon. I'm far from being an experienced or car smart than most people on the board but will try to give you feedback on it when it arrives next week.

 

Thanks oldman I'll be lookin forward to your response, I'm considering purchasing it myself. Just a little curious how they'd fit so much information in just 128 pages.

 

I'm not sure how fast your Boosted D-series is, but a stock K20a2 in an EG with a K-pro if driven well will net you 12.8-13.0 et's. This is on a stock motor with OEM reliability and still getting 38-40 miles per gallon fuel economy. With the potential of still being built and/or forced induction.

http://www.hybrid-racing.com/h....html

That's a plug n' play harness we offer for 350.

Here are the install instuctions, shouldn't take anyone more than 20 minutes to install

http://www.hybrid-racing.com/a...l.pdf

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Goatsterrman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here are the install instuctions, shouldn't take anyone more than 20 minutes to install

http://www.hybrid-racing.com/a...l.pdf</TD></TR></TABLE>That's some great info right there!

 

I've been considering a K for a long time into my EG, but at the time it was so expensive and no one really had it done. Well it's still expensive but it's more common now.
I ended up doing a b18c1 with turbo swap, but I'm kinda thinking of doing a K now b/c I wanna do N/A. Good info on this thread, I might look into it.
BTW how much are people charging nowadays for just the parts and labor excluding the motor? $2-3 grand?


Modified by GreenDemon at 4:01 AM 4/17/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Goatsterrman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm not sure how fast your Boosted D-series is, but a stock K20a2 in an EG with a K-pro if driven well will net you 12.8-13.0 et's. </TD></TR></TABLE>

What a load of bullshit, if this was all it took I could strip 600 pounds from an RSX add a K-Pro and run 12.8's. FYI the RSX has much better suspension and tires for it too

H22 &gt; k20
k24 &gt; k20
10K fully rebuilt geezer swap with rebuilt trans ect &gt; k20
5K JG engine dynamics redline D series &gt; k20

If it was me I would pick up a b18 long block for around 700 bux. Buy a s2 IM and DC sports JDM ITR header. Also pick up a used LS trans Quaife ATD and SRR FD and drop it off @ gear speed. Then drop the block and head off at RandD have them CNC port the head and match for the IM and header. Drop in some mild crower cams (keeping in mind max RPMS will be 7400) bump the compression up tp 11.5, clutch, flywheel and balance with a dampened crank pulley and arp bolts.

Also pick up a ported TB to match the IM and tune on 89 octane.

The engine will last forever as long as you don't run out of oil, will pull as hard as most any street tires will handle in a light car and will be basically brand new not used, and you can run A/C


FYI K20 swaps are grounds for an instant tow if you get caught and I've not yet seen someone sucessfully BAR one in so cal yet.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stormy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What a load of bullshit, if this was all it took I could strip 600 pounds from an RSX add a K-Pro and run 12.8's. FYI the RSX has much better suspension and tires for it too

H22 &gt; k20
k24 &gt; k20
10K fully rebuilt geezer swap with rebuilt trans ect &gt; k20
5K JG engine dynamics redline D series &gt; k20

If it was me I would pick up a b18 long block for around 700 bux. Buy a s2 IM and DC sports JDM ITR header. Also pick up a used LS trans Quaife ATD and SRR FD and drop it off @ gear speed. Then drop the block and head off at RandD have them CNC port the head and match for the IM and header. Drop in some mild crower cams (keeping in mind max RPMS will be 7400) bump the compression up tp 11.5, clutch, flywheel and balance with a dampened crank pulley and arp bolts.

Also pick up a ported TB to match the IM and tune on 89 octane.

The engine will last forever as long as you don't run out of oil, will pull as hard as most any street tires will handle in a light car and will be basically brand new not used, and you can run A/C


FYI K20 swaps are grounds for an instant tow if you get caught and I've not yet seen someone sucessfully BAR one in so cal yet.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hate to burst your bubble dude but Goatsterrman is right. Theres a guy over here in NZ running mid 11's with a k20a in an EG shell. When he first put it in he was running mid to high 12's from memory

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mr.sky &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Hate to burst your bubble dude but Goatsterrman is right. Theres a guy over here in NZ running mid 11's with a k20a in an EG shell. When he first put it in he was running mid to high 12's from memory</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah and I'm sure he's running stock suspension, no exhaust or other mods, no weight loss on stock tires.

if he was post proof and I'll paypal you 5 bux

 

no actually the cars pretty much stripped bare, he runs full slicks, the suspension is nowhere near stock and the exhaust on vtec would be one of the loudest things you had ever heard...

your lucky i dont have a paypal account :-)

check out the nzhondas.com forum, his name is (ironically) Non Vtec