b20 or b18b? 90' DA integra
i got a 15 year old DA and the motor i got in it is leaving very soon i got a vtec b16 but now im leaning towards zero v-tec and either a B20 or B18 soo if anyone has any HP/Tq ratings, personal ups and downs about the two id really appreciate it cause they are both a one hundred percent direct swap and this makes it easy on my pockets( just paid a lawyer to get outta some tickets)... so to anyone who can help I thank you
B20 if you don't plan on adding a turbo later, B18 if you think you might.
I'm in the same boat myself, 91 DA with a tired B18A1, tax return is coming soon so I gotta make my mind up on what I want to do. The B20 has a little more torque from what I understand, but is not a good choice for boost because of its weaker/thinner cylinder walls and ring lands, unless you're going to tear it down and sleave it. B18 is a good option for boost, but it's kind of a boring option to put in now since it will be "just the same old motor" until I boost it later on.
Can't make up my mind whether I want to stay N/A or boost, that's the big dillemma.
Modified by M-EJ1 at 10:54 AM 4/14/2005
I'm in the same boat myself, 91 DA with a tired B18A1, tax return is coming soon so I gotta make my mind up on what I want to do. The B20 has a little more torque from what I understand, but is not a good choice for boost because of its weaker/thinner cylinder walls and ring lands, unless you're going to tear it down and sleave it. B18 is a good option for boost, but it's kind of a boring option to put in now since it will be "just the same old motor" until I boost it later on.
Can't make up my mind whether I want to stay N/A or boost, that's the big dillemma.

Modified by M-EJ1 at 10:54 AM 4/14/2005
LS or B20 makes a good NA engine b/c they're cheap. i think the LS might hold up better under higher engine speeds b/c of the thicker cylinder walls. i'm going to turn my LS into a B19 b/c i'd rather build my LS block than shell out money to buy a used B20 block. it gives me a chance to have a NEW block with higher compression pistons, and some added crankshaft stability b/c of the money i'm saving not buying another block. and besides, how many people have a B19 non-VTEC? exactly.
im in the same boat...right now im looking to get a b20 with a lsd b16 cable tranny or hopefully find a b17 tranny..and run this set-up while im building my ls motor...then build the b20
Dude, yea im really leaning towards the b20 for the same price 850$ shipped as the LS i really think ive made up my mind but have heard from some people that they have trouble bolting up to headers, and ecu harness... which when i swapped my bro's we had no problem and it was a swap/drop/drive kinda deal i think we reaplaced the injectors with some 450 dsm adn the obd0 dizzy had to say .... if im remebering correctly i think what ive heard is incorrect? thanks again guys,
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to my understanding a b20 swap is just about the easiest to stock engine swap... the mounts/tranny all perfect... even the wiring harness plugs up, but i think just the injectors and the dizzy must be changed correect me if im wrong
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R6E6I6D »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">to my understanding a b20 swap is just about the easiest to stock engine swap... the mounts/tranny all perfect... even the wiring harness plugs up, but i think just the injectors and the dizzy must be changed correect me if im wrong</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not sure if you know this or not but if you go with the B20 you have to swap to an LS intake mani cause the stock B20's stand too tall. It's a pretty basic swap.....anyone can do it with basic knowledge. If you decide to run boost just remember to sleeve it or just run it at a safe 8 psi. A friend of mine is running 12 psi w/o sleeves but I dont give him very much longer before it calls quits.
Not sure if you know this or not but if you go with the B20 you have to swap to an LS intake mani cause the stock B20's stand too tall. It's a pretty basic swap.....anyone can do it with basic knowledge. If you decide to run boost just remember to sleeve it or just run it at a safe 8 psi. A friend of mine is running 12 psi w/o sleeves but I dont give him very much longer before it calls quits.
certain b20's have the tall intake manifold...and iuno the price of a b20z but i know the b20b londblock is 650 plus shipping from hmotors.
i just cant find out if the b20 has the same rev limit as the ls motor
Modified by projectTeG at 8:19 PM 4/15/2005
i just cant find out if the b20 has the same rev limit as the ls motor
Modified by projectTeG at 8:19 PM 4/15/2005
my homeboi told me that a b20 is illegal on te cars because its a small truck's engine so i guess it's illega lto drop a "suv,truck watever"engine into a "car" but ithats in california
b20 is pretty good for the price in my opinion. I was thinking about buying a b20 from a friend of my dad and slapping on a b18c1 head. turn that into a ******* b20 vtec beast.
b20s and b18bs are the same except for the cams, get ls cams and valve springs and you can rev it out that extra 500 rpms or so and youll have all the torque you need. why dont you just do b20vtec? or lsvtev, its cheap and faster than a stock b16
Thats exactly wat my homeboi told me today B20 C-tech is fuckig nice but then H22 is better i gues haha K24 Block from the Tsx? with a K20a2 head K24 v-tech!!!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mystikalstriker »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the h22 blocks add 200 pounds. for me that's the reason why i'll stick with my lighter b series. it's great power but 200 pounds!!! </TD></TR></TABLE>
Try 75 lbs more than B-series! Search and you will find...........
Go B20!
Try 75 lbs more than B-series! Search and you will find...........
Go B20!
on my 4dr 93 integra im getting a b18b engine for 650$ but i dunno people tell me that b20 can really pull. Even to do a b20 vtec b16 is a killer combo on a lsvtec it all depends on what you like
good luck with though peace
good luck with though peace
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 62
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From: Tucson, Arizona, United states of America
umm if you do a b20.. make sure you re sleave it.. cuz if you dont you'll only be able to run it for 4 months.. trust me iev done 2 of em.. b20
Boo.. b18b yay!
Boo.. b18b yay!
4 months wtf did u do to the poor engine.... a b20 is a pretty reliable engine with just boltons... well what ever i plan on building my b18a while its outta the vehicle and on a stand
My old b18a was fun, but it didn't go that fast. My new g2 has a b20b in it and I just finished getting a 2.5" exhaust + 4-1 header, and it has a JDM B16 tranny. Torque = fun. I'm even gonna try boosting it, I think if you do it right it's possible. It's all about tuning it!
im pretty sure the b20b has 126 hp and the3 b20z is in the area of about 140... but with the swap im going to be doing swapping the intake manifold with the long *** torquey runners out withthe short LS manifold i will gain a good amount of highend power, sooo really knowing the HP ratings is kinda irtrelevant considering no body keeps the stock CRV manifolds on.... but yea it does put u in the ballpark HP wise


