engine break in? floor it?
i was wondering if anybody has tried this method flooring the car for engine break in which supposedly seals the pistons rings better and produces overall more hp and increases longevity of engine. heres a link
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Interesting theory. I dont know if he is correct about the cross hatch messing up the rings or not. I dont know if i like this idea or not. I would honestly break it in slow and see where that goes.
I noticed on his dyno runs, his pattern was to slowly move up to full throttle runs. He started off with 15%, 60% then 100 and this is after a good hour or so of the motor running. So its not right out of the box full throttle. All up to you if you want to do it this way. I would give the motor 2 full tank fills.
I noticed on his dyno runs, his pattern was to slowly move up to full throttle runs. He started off with 15%, 60% then 100 and this is after a good hour or so of the motor running. So its not right out of the box full throttle. All up to you if you want to do it this way. I would give the motor 2 full tank fills.
so no one on honda tech has tried this? Sucks cause I'd have to be the first when my newly built engine gets here. Still debating though.
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From: americas finest, calee fourn ya, united states
Don't forget a engine swap is also called a Transplant and it's best to slowly break your car in so you can find if you have any other problems vacuum leaks, fuel problems, electrical, etc. that's one of the reasons alot of ppl have swap prob. bc they think since the engine was used b4 it's already broken true it's not new but it has been removed and put together again I'll recommend slowly pushing it further and further until after the first OIL change then see what it does. that's just my opinion (former truck driver)
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I have seen the hard break in method a few times on the web and it makes perfect sense to me.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1320JDMGSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> just go through 3 heat cycles then go get it tuned. simple right?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The idea of breaking the engine in using "heat cycles" is a myth that came from the misunderstanding of the concept of "heat treating".
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1320JDMGSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> just go through 3 heat cycles then go get it tuned. simple right?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The idea of breaking the engine in using "heat cycles" is a myth that came from the misunderstanding of the concept of "heat treating".
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From: I drink Seafoam and poo into catch cans, USA
do a search.....
The highly regarded Earl did a whole write up on how to properly brake in a newly built motor. He know's his ****, I'd listen to him before anyone's "opinions".
to summarize his article, he said 20 mins of reving between 1-3K will do the trick.
The highly regarded Earl did a whole write up on how to properly brake in a newly built motor. He know's his ****, I'd listen to him before anyone's "opinions".
to summarize his article, he said 20 mins of reving between 1-3K will do the trick.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike1114 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do a search.....
The highly regarded Earl did a whole write up on how to properly brake in a newly built motor. He know's his ****, I'd listen to him before anyone's "opinions".
to summarize his article, he said 20 mins of reving between 1-3K will do the trick.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I take it you didnt read the article posted?
This one is similar too
http://www.paceparts.com/index...D=636
The highly regarded Earl did a whole write up on how to properly brake in a newly built motor. He know's his ****, I'd listen to him before anyone's "opinions".
to summarize his article, he said 20 mins of reving between 1-3K will do the trick.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I take it you didnt read the article posted?
This one is similar too
http://www.paceparts.com/index...D=636
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CrashAndBurn »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you think its a good idea for you to beat your brand new motor go for it. Personally I'm to scared to do something like that</TD></TR></TABLE>
Read the article. Its not abuse, nor does he suggest abusing it.
Read the article. Its not abuse, nor does he suggest abusing it.
Hmm this is too controversial, although I am no engineer I would say breakin during dyno tune is best. But for street, I would range my shifts from 3k-5k.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike1114 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do a search.....
The highly regarded Earl did a whole write up on how to properly brake in a newly built motor. He know's his ****, I'd listen to him before anyone's "opinions".
to summarize his article, he said 20 mins of reving between 1-3K will do the trick.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Never heard that before, but thanks for the info. I'm sure if anyone would know it would be Earl himself.
The highly regarded Earl did a whole write up on how to properly brake in a newly built motor. He know's his ****, I'd listen to him before anyone's "opinions".
to summarize his article, he said 20 mins of reving between 1-3K will do the trick.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Never heard that before, but thanks for the info. I'm sure if anyone would know it would be Earl himself.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike1114 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do a search.....
The highly regarded Earl did a whole write up on how to properly brake in a newly built motor. He know's his ****, I'd listen to him before anyone's "opinions".
to summarize his article, he said 20 mins of reving between 1-3K will do the trick.</TD></TR></TABLE>
heres the link to earls thread https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=878397
also im a firm believer in the hard break in if you cant break it in on a dyno right away.
The highly regarded Earl did a whole write up on how to properly brake in a newly built motor. He know's his ****, I'd listen to him before anyone's "opinions".
to summarize his article, he said 20 mins of reving between 1-3K will do the trick.</TD></TR></TABLE>
heres the link to earls thread https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=878397
also im a firm believer in the hard break in if you cant break it in on a dyno right away.
you should really take it easy for the first 500 miles, and by takin it easy don't floor it every time you take off. you should run the motor at various speeds that is prolly the best way, and other things like if you stop at a gas station just to run in and get a drink and what ever leave the engine running, longer you leave running for the first 500 miles the better off you'll be. good luck
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00supercivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you should really take it easy for the first 500 miles, and by takin it easy don't floor it every time you take off. you should run the motor at various speeds that is prolly the best way, and other things like if you stop at a gas station just to run in and get a drink and what ever leave the engine running, longer you leave running for the first 500 miles the better off you'll be. good luck </TD></TR></TABLE>
Did you even read what the dude in the link had to say? or are you just posting cause "its what to do" like everyone else thinks.
Did you even read what the dude in the link had to say? or are you just posting cause "its what to do" like everyone else thinks.
Modern honing makes the difference according to this guy. I guess then that the 03 Mitsu Evo VIII Car & Driver magazine reported on in the April 05 issue was old school in the honing dept. because Mitsubishi recommended C&D to take it easy during the 1st 600 miles of their long term test car if they wanted quicker accelaration and an engine that didn't use oil. Does this guy care about long term durability or is he rebuilding his engines after every race? I guess what he is trying to accomplish would be important to know. As it stands Mitsubishi would not want him near one of their engines.
when my buddy built his motor. he turned the motor on. let it idle for 20 min. changed the oil. turned it on let it idle for a while longer then took it to the dyno and made 200whp out of a 1.8 ls/vtec.
now dont go around town rompin on the throttle. get some kind of fuel management and get the motor tuned right away. good luck
now dont go around town rompin on the throttle. get some kind of fuel management and get the motor tuned right away. good luck
i've drove the motor to the dyno right after i had it built and got it tuned. as soon as i got it tuned i drove it normally. there's an article on this http://www.importbuilders.com
my friend rebuilt his 4 stroke engine on his 4 wheeler like they were talking about 4-stroke engines and well they rode the hell outa it rite after a rebuild and now its time for a new rebuild 3 months later i say dont do it
I know of alot of people that build bike and engines and car engines and they dont do any of that long break in period. They build the engines and then go beat up on it wether it be the dyno or the street. And this is from some guys that have been building engines for easily 25 years. They really dont ever have any problems and this is the same on bikes also. My brother just got the engine built in his car its a V8 and just had a fresh rebuild of the whole engine and as soon as they got it into the car and got it tuned decently it was taken right to the street and the beating started haha. Not one problem yet and its been running for a little while now. He drives it several times a week also.



