Well, I just got my car out of my garage and took it down the road a couple of times. There is something wrong, and I just can't pin point it. Now, I will just sit there and let it idle and slowly it loses rpms and konk's out. When I take it down the road, it has no power after 2000 rpms. Also, there is a ticking sound coming from the head. Could I be off a tooth? Could I have some vaccum lines mixed up?

 

its gotta be the timing

 

check the fireing order i know that my did the same thing and if not that i would check the timing for sure

-Thomas

 

I just learned how to check ecu codes. I found 3 codes, and eliminated 2 of them. Now, I have a code 12 (EGR-exhaust gas recirculation lift valve). I have been tryin to figure it out. And fo rthe knocking noise, I had a friend come over, and he thinks it might be a rod bearing. OHHH NOOOO!!!!. So anyways, thx for the help guys.

 

Time for a CR test.

 

don't worry about the egr. Some say it can put your car into limp mode, some say it doesn't.

I don't think it can, but I wouldn't worry about it. If you have no power, you have something else wrong. Check timing and CR.

 

My H22 eg started throwing a code 12 and it was running like crap. The idle was all over the place. I didnt even bother driving it.

 

I just checked the codes to see if the 12 cleared, and now I have 4 codes. 3,12,36,41. Damn, I thought I got rid of 36, and 41. I cleaned out the egr and now I am getting the map sensor electrcal one(3).

 

try to replace the map sensor or check your wiring. I had a problem with code three that ended up being a bad ecu. But short of that, it's either wiring or the sensor itself.

If your map sensor is fucked, your car isn't going to run right.

 

I pretty much have the 41(O2 sensor) figured out. And I don't think I can get rid of the 36(Traction control on jdm ecu's). If the map sensor needs replacement, could it be triggering the code 12 since it is making th ecar run like crap. I am tryin to get it so I have no check engine light. I think it will be hard to do since I haven't found away to get rid of the traction control(36).

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Time for a CR test.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I was hoping I didn't have to resort to this, just for the simple fact that it is going to tell me what I don' t want to know. Well, soon as I get time, it will be done.

 

Also, someone recommended it could be a rod bearing making this noise. I found some, but they are asking me what size? Standard, or should I go with another size? If this is the problem.

 

36 doesnt trigger a check engine light. it will opnly show when you are checking other codes.

 

Pull your spark plug wires one @ a time. If the noise goes away in that cylinder, its probably in the bottom end of that cylinder. Get a stethoscope and listen around, they go for about $10. Also, drop your pan and look for any metal shavings that look like they came out of a cheese grater. Copper colored shavings are also sure signs of a spun or spinning or misaligned bearing.

 

OK, I got rid of all my codes again, except for the Code 12 (EGR). I got a new map sensor, and now the car idles good, at around 1300. But when I go to give it gas, it konk's out. It doesn't even rise in rpm's. I took the vaccum off the egr, and thats when It idles good. But when I put it back on, it idles good for about 10 seconds, and konk's out again. I am going to parts store to get the things I need to do CR test. I'll hit you guys up later with the results. Better cross my fingers.

 

Well, here is my Compression test results.

Cylinder #4 - 222
Cylinder #3 - 170
Cylinder #2 - 195
Cylinder #1 - 160

Could my timing be off? Cause when I was able to drive it. It kicked in good in low rpms, but then felt like I wasn't even excellerating after 2500.

 

And, I am running rich. All my spark plugs were black

 

222 to 160? Thats not a good sign. Do the te spoon of oil test.

 

I looked through the little peek hole in the front of the engine, between the tranny, and block, were a little rubber piece comes out. I noticed that when my cams are lined up, it is not at top dead center. Could this mess the compression up? I am going to try the teaspoon of oil thing in a little bit here.

 

make sure youre egr vac lines are hooked up right.... will cause idle problems if you have straight vac hooked up to the valve

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sixgundone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I noticed that when my cams are lined up, it is not at top dead center. Could this mess the compression up? I am going to try the teaspoon of oil thing in a little bit here.</TD></TR></TABLE>

whoa dude it sounds like your valve timing is off. when your cams are in the TDC position (as indicated by the hash marks on the cam gears), your flywheel should also be in the TDC position. if they are not aligned, this could cause major problems. did you install the timing belt?

I honestly think the last thing you need to worry about is EGR. I've been driving around on code 12 for three years, beating the **** out of my car too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sixgundone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I noticed that when my cams are lined up, it is not at top dead center. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Redo timing asap.

 

you think his pistons bitchslapped his valves? seems like a possibility to me.

sixgundone: how far off are we talking about? if you didn't install that timing belt, you need to go have a 'chat' with whoever did.

 

I did the timing. Now, the cam is about a tooth off. I read in here that when the cams are lined up, you can see a little hole in each one of the cams through the cam holders. And thats what I did. Which puts it about 2 degrees off on the intake cam. I just did this and now I can tell the timing is off just by hearing it. Also, when I started it, it ran for about 10 seconds and the ticking sound is almost depleted. I can bearly hear it now. So, do you guys think when I first put the timing belt on that I had the crank off a little? Cause It was making the ticking sound loud and clear. And now, I can give it a little gas with out it shutting off right away, were when I had the cams lined up by using the 4 little indents, and I am assuming the crank was off a little, it would just konk out when I gave it gas. You guys think I am on the right track? Thx alot

 

Ok guys, I did a valve adjustment and did another compression test. Good compression results, but same old ticking. My compression results were all between 220 and 230. Did I do something wrong the first time? Anyways, I think Dreamer is right about the whole valve slapping thing. Cause valve adjustment was done, and the noise is still there. Actually I could say that after I did it, it seems a little bit louder now. The guy who owned this engine before me said he bought it from a guy who put type-s pistons in it and said it had a type-s head. If that was the case, would there be clearance issues since I am using a h22a4 block. And also, What up with the compression? Isn't that kinda high for a stock h22a4 anyways?

 

those compression numbers are fine for an H22A4. my motor produces similar numbers. if you have type-s pistons, those numbers might actually be a little low. If your pistons did actually hit your valves (which is likely if your timing was off by more than a tooth), you're going to need to at least replace the bent valves. it sucks that you don't know exactly what has been modded on the motor...