Overheating WOES... Please help!
1992 Prelude SI 5sp H23A w/ 150k
Car started overheating about a month ago. I checked the radiator and 1/4 of it was rusted away, so I slapped in a new radiator, filled and bled the coolant and everything was fine. I did notice a very slow coolant leak coming from the driver side of the oilpan closest to the firewall. I stupidly think nothing of it and I'm on my way.
Three weeks later the car starts to overheat again. Top hose is hot, and bottom hose is cold. Heat does not work, so I change the thermostat with a honda OEM tstat. I notice that when I went to change the Tstat, there was not much coolant in the system - I didn't even have to drain it. Anyways, I refill the coolant and bleed the system. Everything is fine again. I stupidly don't bother to check that leak again.
This morning, coming off the freeway after a one hour drive, the car starts to overheat again. The coolant system is very low. I fill it back up with water and turn the car back on after I let it cool. That same leak has now grown from a very slow leak to a moderate leak. I check my oil and it looks fine - not milky or anything so I think my head gasket is okay. I didn't have a jack so I couldn't get under my car to check it out. It's definately coming from right around the oil pan on the driver side near the firewall.
The heater works fine, and the coolant levels at the radiator do flutuate up and down, so it doesn't seem like it is the waterpump, but I could be wrong.
Does anybody have any idea of what the problem could be? Any help is MUCH appreciated. Thanks guys!
Car started overheating about a month ago. I checked the radiator and 1/4 of it was rusted away, so I slapped in a new radiator, filled and bled the coolant and everything was fine. I did notice a very slow coolant leak coming from the driver side of the oilpan closest to the firewall. I stupidly think nothing of it and I'm on my way.
Three weeks later the car starts to overheat again. Top hose is hot, and bottom hose is cold. Heat does not work, so I change the thermostat with a honda OEM tstat. I notice that when I went to change the Tstat, there was not much coolant in the system - I didn't even have to drain it. Anyways, I refill the coolant and bleed the system. Everything is fine again. I stupidly don't bother to check that leak again.
This morning, coming off the freeway after a one hour drive, the car starts to overheat again. The coolant system is very low. I fill it back up with water and turn the car back on after I let it cool. That same leak has now grown from a very slow leak to a moderate leak. I check my oil and it looks fine - not milky or anything so I think my head gasket is okay. I didn't have a jack so I couldn't get under my car to check it out. It's definately coming from right around the oil pan on the driver side near the firewall.
The heater works fine, and the coolant levels at the radiator do flutuate up and down, so it doesn't seem like it is the waterpump, but I could be wrong.
Does anybody have any idea of what the problem could be? Any help is MUCH appreciated. Thanks guys!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eMpAtHy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i believe the thermostat is broken. get a new one. it is like 10 dollars.</TD></TR></TABLE>
His system is leaking.
It sounds to me like the leak is either coming from the lower tb cover which
makes me think that the water pump is possibily leaking, or it's coming from
the waterpipe or one of the heater hoses where they connect in the back.
Clean it all up, put some cardboard under your car and try to figure out exactly where the leak is and get back to us.
His system is leaking.
It sounds to me like the leak is either coming from the lower tb cover which
makes me think that the water pump is possibily leaking, or it's coming from
the waterpipe or one of the heater hoses where they connect in the back.
Clean it all up, put some cardboard under your car and try to figure out exactly where the leak is and get back to us.
Can't be the thermostat because I just replaced it and both hoses are hot now.
I can't get under my car right now because ALL my tools (even my jacks etc,) are at my other apartment. I tried looking behind my driver side wheel, and the leak is coming from right behind the crank pulley.
It looks like its coming from the oil pan, but I know it isn't - something must be dripping onto the top of the oilpan so that its running down the side of the oilpan.
I can't get under my car right now because ALL my tools (even my jacks etc,) are at my other apartment. I tried looking behind my driver side wheel, and the leak is coming from right behind the crank pulley.
It looks like its coming from the oil pan, but I know it isn't - something must be dripping onto the top of the oilpan so that its running down the side of the oilpan.
I was just looking at some diagrams of the cooling system and I have narrowed it down to two possible problems.
1) Water pump O-ring
2) Connecting hose
I guess I'll have to wait to get jacks and a big light to go take a look there.
Any other suggestions?
1) Water pump O-ring
2) Connecting hose
I guess I'll have to wait to get jacks and a big light to go take a look there.
Any other suggestions?
Well, after reading your post my reaction was water pump. Then, after some thought and reasoning. I came up with waterpump. And with a little bit more knowledge and first hand experience onf a friends car and a Jeep Wrangler of mine.. Water pump...
This problem will go from bad to worse, to boom... Its just worn out and thats what happens when a water pump goes. Time for a new one, while ur in there put a Timing belt on it... If you make it to the end of the week, you better thank whoever and fix it then.
This problem will go from bad to worse, to boom... Its just worn out and thats what happens when a water pump goes. Time for a new one, while ur in there put a Timing belt on it... If you make it to the end of the week, you better thank whoever and fix it then.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JTCdudeman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, after reading your post my reaction was water pump. Then, after some thought and reasoning. I came up with waterpump. And with a little bit more knowledge and first hand experience onf a friends car and a Jeep Wrangler of mine.. Water pump...
This problem will go from bad to worse, to boom... Its just worn out and thats what happens when a water pump goes. Time for a new one, while ur in there put a Timing belt on it... If you make it to the end of the week, you better thank whoever and fix it then. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I was hoping it wasn't the waterpump
Anyways, I'm driving my beater around for now while the prelude stays parked. Not going to drive it much more until I get it fixed.
This problem will go from bad to worse, to boom... Its just worn out and thats what happens when a water pump goes. Time for a new one, while ur in there put a Timing belt on it... If you make it to the end of the week, you better thank whoever and fix it then. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I was hoping it wasn't the waterpump
Anyways, I'm driving my beater around for now while the prelude stays parked. Not going to drive it much more until I get it fixed.
Hey, not to jack the thread but I have somewhat of a similar problem. I have a JDM F22b DOHC so basically a h23a but 2.2 liters. Anyways my temp went way up one time driving.
First time this has ever happened, but it only occured twice when driving normal. I checked all the fueses cause my fan didn't come on. Then let the car run for at least 15-20 mins. and then finally the fan came on.
Could this be the thermosat and fan switch? The radiator and water pump are only about a year and half old after I did the swap. Anyone want to chime in I'm short on cash and want to buy the right part.
First time this has ever happened, but it only occured twice when driving normal. I checked all the fueses cause my fan didn't come on. Then let the car run for at least 15-20 mins. and then finally the fan came on.
Could this be the thermosat and fan switch? The radiator and water pump are only about a year and half old after I did the swap. Anyone want to chime in I'm short on cash and want to buy the right part.
did you temp gauge in your car ever get to the High temp mark? I have never seen mine go above halfway, and I was afraid it wasn't working.
Yeah, it normally runs at the half way mark. But started to go past it, and it only hit the red mark once. I check the radiator hoses and the bottom is way cooler then the top one. So I am assuming this is the thermosat, and how do you test the switch? The fan came on but not after like 15-20 minutes.
Just an update...
I had the Honda dealership check out the car and it turns out it was the waterpump.
I will be getting the waterpump, timing belt, tensioner, and two axles (unrelated) replaced.
It's going to hit my pocket real well
I had the Honda dealership check out the car and it turns out it was the waterpump.
I will be getting the waterpump, timing belt, tensioner, and two axles (unrelated) replaced.
It's going to hit my pocket real well
hey bud i've got exactly the same problems as you!
my radiator is dying, my water pump i think is dead and i just changed the thermostat... my pockets are gonna hurt too!!
Hope the water pump fixes yours and my prolem! good luck!
my radiator is dying, my water pump i think is dead and i just changed the thermostat... my pockets are gonna hurt too!!
Hope the water pump fixes yours and my prolem! good luck!
Just another update just in case anybody is searching and has this problem later on:
I had Honda do all of the following work:
New Timing Belt, Tensioner, & Spring
New Water Pump
Removed Balancer Belt
Repalced both Axles
Valve Adjustment
Replaced all Oil Seals
Changed Tranny Oil
Changed Motor Oil & Filter
Installed DC Ceramic 4-2-1 Header, RandomTech HiFlo Cat, Apex'i WS Cat-back Exhaust.
Car is running good as new now, except the old O2 sensor is stuck inside the OEM exhaust manifold. Temporarily I have the O2 bung plugged up and I'm throwing a CEL and running rich, which will be fixed as soon as I find out how to extract that O2 sensor (or bite the bullet on a new one).
With the balancer belt removed (balance shafts still in tact) the car vibrates a little more than before, but nothing too noticable. The car is definately faster, but I can't tell how much of it is from removing the belt, because I had the car tuned up and had the header, cat, and exhaust put on at the same time. All I can say is no negative effects besides the slight vibration at idle.
Since the accessory belts will need to be changed in another 30k or so, my next mod will probably be an AEM pulleys/belts kit. Then probably a SAFC and some tuning.
I had Honda do all of the following work:
New Timing Belt, Tensioner, & Spring
New Water Pump
Removed Balancer Belt
Repalced both Axles
Valve Adjustment
Replaced all Oil Seals
Changed Tranny Oil
Changed Motor Oil & Filter
Installed DC Ceramic 4-2-1 Header, RandomTech HiFlo Cat, Apex'i WS Cat-back Exhaust.
Car is running good as new now, except the old O2 sensor is stuck inside the OEM exhaust manifold. Temporarily I have the O2 bung plugged up and I'm throwing a CEL and running rich, which will be fixed as soon as I find out how to extract that O2 sensor (or bite the bullet on a new one).
With the balancer belt removed (balance shafts still in tact) the car vibrates a little more than before, but nothing too noticable. The car is definately faster, but I can't tell how much of it is from removing the belt, because I had the car tuned up and had the header, cat, and exhaust put on at the same time. All I can say is no negative effects besides the slight vibration at idle.
Since the accessory belts will need to be changed in another 30k or so, my next mod will probably be an AEM pulleys/belts kit. Then probably a SAFC and some tuning.
Yup. I just might have the exact same problem... except...
1.) I had a distrobuter changed four months ago, and the check engine light comes on every once and again. (usually while idleing). The light can go on and off multiple times during a 60-70 minute commute.
2.) my spedometer doesn't work
3.) my hood has some noticable steam coming off of it during rain
4.) today my temp just peaked above middle. It would be high for a minute, then fine for a minute. it would follow that pattern every five or six minutes. (yes, it happened enough for me to take the time to find this out)
5.) my overflow res was 1/2 full when i finally arrived and the fan stayed on for a few minutes (never seen my car do that before)
do we have a match?
also, how much did it cost for these related repairs?? I hate to ask, but have to know!
thanks all,
ryan
1.) I had a distrobuter changed four months ago, and the check engine light comes on every once and again. (usually while idleing). The light can go on and off multiple times during a 60-70 minute commute.
2.) my spedometer doesn't work
3.) my hood has some noticable steam coming off of it during rain
4.) today my temp just peaked above middle. It would be high for a minute, then fine for a minute. it would follow that pattern every five or six minutes. (yes, it happened enough for me to take the time to find this out)
5.) my overflow res was 1/2 full when i finally arrived and the fan stayed on for a few minutes (never seen my car do that before)
do we have a match?
also, how much did it cost for these related repairs?? I hate to ask, but have to know!
thanks all,
ryan
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