I have a 95 acura integra in which i just got an H22a (93 obd1) swapped in it. I am having a problem with my vtec and idle. The idle when i start the car cold goes to 2000 rpm to 2200 rpm. The idle then bounces all over the place for about 1-2 minutes then it stays at 2000 rpm and slowly goes down as the engine heats up. As the engine gets hotter, the idle gets lower and lower until it goes to and stays at 0 rpm, just enough that the cars doesn't stall out. Also to add on top of this, my VTEC will not engage, engine cuts at around 6600 rpm. I had this engine in my previous car and it worked great for the past year and a half until i swapped into this car. Wiring was done at a tune shop and they said it is wired properly. I remember i had this type of problem with my other car when i got it first installed and it was a wire to the map sensor which was faulty. He assured me that it is wired properly. Any ideas?

 

also to add if this helps, I have a p13 ECU with a spoon chip in it. ECU and chip was tested and they are in running condition, no problems.

 

any cels?

 

yes, but it is only because of the EGR which is not installed. All H22's do that unless the check engine light was cut by the installer to get rid of this because they don't want to find and install the EGR to get rid of the code and the cel

 

yeah, egr is a common issue, but you can get around it. I would say your idle problems are most likely vacuum related, but it could be wiring. As far as vtec, make sure it's wired to the correct pinouts on the ecu (3 wires).

 

well my installer said no to worry bout it that he will fix it. But I don't have too much confidence in the guy. When I asked if the vtec was working properly and he said yes. Then asked if the car drives well and he said he does not know. I asked him how he tested the vtec and he replied in his garage if it works properly. Now how is this possible when VTEC does not engage in neutral? He must think i am total putz or something. Anyways I'll see today, this has been dragging on for way too long. If any other suggestions let know know and I'll keep you all posted with my updates. Thanks

 

vtec does not engage in neutral. no vtec until (i believe its 18 mph), unless you have a chipped ecu with that disabled.

 

Exactly, just like I posted, (not sure the exact mph when is does engage though) thats why i said that guy must be taking me for a fool and must think i don't know what an engine is (figure of speach). We'll see what happens today, else I am going to look at it myself. Didn't want to cause I am too busy at work and I paid the guy to do the job, by right he should finish what he started. Thanks for the input, I'll keep ya posted.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redirocz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes, but it is only because of the EGR</TD></TR></TABLE>are you sure? I suggest you check the codes yourself because I've had the CEL come on and didnt pay attention because it always came on..... it ended up being the wires for the VTEC.

 

K well I decided to take upon myself to check out the issue myself since the shop who did the wiring for my car is very unreliable and been giving me the run around for 2 weeks now. Here is what I found out. I ran the CEL Codes and found that it is giving me Codes 3 (3 short), code 20 (2 long) and code 36 (3 long, 6 short)
I know that code 20 might be my fuse for the ELD, so I'll check that out tomorrow. Code 36 i believe is the EGR which is not installed and code 3 is the famous MAP Sensor Error. Now I verified the wiring and I believe the guy did not wire it properly. Can someone tell me the pinout of the MAP sensor which wire does what and which one goes to the D17 D19 D21 pinout on the ECU, or even if this is correct?

 

3 is map, 36 is atts (all wheel steering system for ludes), egr is 12 (for future reference). 36 will only show up when there is another code, it wont throw the cel on its own. Search for obd1 p13 pinouts, that's all you'll need to trace the map sensor wires. I would post it, but my copy is at home, and I am at work.

 

are you sure the map sensor didn't get damaged during the motor install? its not that hard to bust. it could be wired properly and still not work. there is probably an easy way to check if it is ok using a multimeter (can be found cheap at radio shack).

also, did this same shop "check" the ecu? did you buy it from them?

and, not to be a dick, but ATTS is not all wheel steering. its 'automatic torque transfer system' or something found on the prelude SH. helps reduce understeer.

the whole thing sounds kinda shady. I wouldn't deal with that shop at all anymore.
sorry I can't help with the pinouts I'm at work too

edit: whoa whoa whoa p13 = OBD1. atts was only found on OBDII ludes. this doesn't add up

 

never mind. code 36 is for traction control (JDM only). 20 is electrical load detector.

I guess you're gonna need those pinouts

OBD1 (prelude)

A1-INJ1 INJ1 Brown, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A2-INJ4 INJ4 Yellow, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A3-INJ2 INJ2 Red, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A4-VTS VTEC solenoid GRN/YEL, N/a
A5-INJ3 INJ3 Blue, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A6-PO2SHTC O2 sensor (heating element) Org/Wht, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A7-FLR1 fuel pump Grn/BLK, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A8-empty A7 and A8 have the same circurt, so they can be the same
A9-IACV IAC valve Blk/Blu, About 10v KOEO on Warm engine
A10-empty
A11- This is EGR Control Solenoid Valve (if the ECU has) Red, N/A
A12-FANC engine coolant temp switch Blu/red, N/A
A13-MIL MIL (check engine light) Blu/wht, N/A
A14-empty
A15-ACC (a/c compressor clutch) Red/Blu, N/A
A16-ALT C alternator Wht/Grn, N/A
A17-IAB IAB Solenoid Pink, N/A
A18- Org/Red, Transmission Control Module (A/T), N/A
A19- White, Intake control solenoid, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A20-PCS EVAP purge control solenoid Red/Grn, N/a
A21-ICM ICM Yel/Grn, Ignition Control Module (ICM) Output signal, About 10V KOEO
A22- *per Sander* Ignitor same as A21
A23-PG1 ground Black, Power ground, less than 1V
A24-PG2 ground same as A23
A25-IGP2 to main relay and to gound for o Yel/blk, Battery positive from Main relay, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A26-LG1 gound Blk/red, less than 1V

B1-IGP2 to pin A25 Yel/Blk, Battery positive from Main relay, Battery Voltage with KOEO
B2-LG2 ground to shields for CYP & TDC Brown/Blk, Less than 1V
B3- Orange, upshift/downshift comparative input, N/A
B4- Pink, upshift/downshift comparative input, N/A
B5-ACS a/c switch Blu/Blk, A/c input, About 5V with KOEO & A/C off; less than 1V KOER with A/C & blower on
B6-empty
B7- Light green, Park/Neutral switch (A/T), Less than 1V in Park or Neutral with KOEO; 5V in Park or neutral with KOER; Battery voltage in all other positions
B8-PSPSW PSP switch Red/Green, Power steering oil pressure switch, 0V KOEO; Battery Voltage KOER While slowly turning steering wheel
B9-STARTER SIGNAL starter signal Blue/red, Battery Voltage in the START position (clutch depressed on M/T models)
B10-VSS vehicle speed sensor Orange, Pulses 0-12V while turning the left front wheel
B11-CYP P CYP -P Orange, CYP sensor input, N/A
B12-CYP M CYP -M White, CYP sensor signal, N/A
B13-TDC P TDC -P Org/Blue, TDC sensor input, N/A
B14-TDC M TDC -M Wht/Blue, TDC sensor signal, N/A
B15-CKP P CKP -P Blu/Green, CKP Sensor input, N/A
B16-CKP M CKP -M Blu/yel, CKP Sensor signal, N/A

D1-VBU Back Up Power Wht/Yel, Battery positive From battery through Fuse Box, Battery Voltage at ALL times
D2-BKSW brake switch Grn/wht, Battery voltage at all times
D3-KS Knock Sensor Red/Blue, N/A
D4-SCS service check connector Brown/Wht, About 5V (M/T); About 11V (A/T)
D5-empty
D6-VTM VTEC pressure switch Light Blue, N/A
D7-TXD/RXD (data link connector) Light Green/Red, N/A
D8-empty
D9-ALT F alternator Wht/Red, Alternator Charging Signal, About 4.5V KOEO; Decreases under Electrical load (Headlights & rear defogger on) At warm idle
D10-ELD electric load detector input Grn/Blk, N/A
D11-TPS TPS Signal Red/Blk, About 0.5V KOEO with throttle fully closed; About 4.5V KOEO with throttle fully open
D12- Wht/Blk, EGR Valve Lift sensor, About 1.2V KOEO
D13-ECT ECT sensor input Yel/Blu, About 5V KOEO (varies with temperature)
D14-PHO2S O2 sensor White, heated 02 sensor Signal, 0.4-0.5V when ignition is turned on; drops to less than 0.1V within 2 minutes
D15-IAT IAT sensor Red/Yel, Intake Air Temperature signal, .05-4.5V KOEO(Varies with temperature)
D16-VREF VREF shows BLANK on my diagram
D17-MAP Map Signal Wht/Blu, About 3V KOEO (Varies with Temperature)
D18- Light Green/Blk, Transmission Control Module (A/T Only), N/A
D19 - Red/Wht, Reference Voltage, About 5V KOEO
D20 - Yel/Wht, Reference Voltage, About 5V KOEO
D21 - Blue/Wht, Sensor ground, Less than 1V
D22 - Green/Wht, Sensor ground, Less than 1V

there is no "C' section

copied from a post made by Spade

hope that helps

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dreamer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
and, not to be a dick, but ATTS is not all wheel steering. its 'automatic torque transfer system' or something found on the prelude SH. helps reduce understeer.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah, i know, I just didn't want to get into an explanation of what it is. It's not his problem, and if he gets rid of the other cels, he'll never see code 36 again. And I 100% agree that the sensor is probably bad. Map and tps are the most commonly 'damaged in the swap' sensors i've heard of, not to mention the car probably wouldn't run if it was wired wrong.

 

its not that hard to imagine a little plastic sensor getting smashed during the swap, especially if you are as ape-like in the garage as myself.

on a side note, I didn't know JDM ludes had traction control. what the hell do they need that for?

 

hmm, im thinkin they wired the map sensor wrong which is causing your ELD code too. The reason i say that is because when i did my swap i had some wiring backwards (actually had two connectors in the wrong areas and my fan wired wrong; lol im partaillay retarded sometimes) and it not only caused the two areas to code but it also cause ELD.

Cant explain the other one, never got that one.

 

Hey everyone. Well here is the update. I followed the wiring and this is what i got from how he wired the map sensor. The wire going to Pin D17 was correct, the ground was on pin D21 which is correct and tested it with the test light (middle wire on the map sensor) and it is giving a ground properly and also tested it on the P3 plug where it plugs to the map and it is good. But the wire that suppose to go to pinout D19, he made that as a ground and grounded it to the bolt holding the ECU in place (no wire was plugged into D19). What a tard! So after I wired everything back up, I checked the voltages and i am getting around 3 volt on pin D17 which goes to about 4.5-4.8 when my engine got hot and pin D19 starts at 5 volts then goes to 6.6 volts when the engine is hot. I also disconnected my battery for over 5 minutes to reset the ECU, but i still get the Code 3 Map sensor and the VTEC still doesn't guessing because of the MAP Code. Is it possible from being wired incorrectly that the map is deffective or is that impossible?

 

BTW: Thanks Everyone for all the help on this, the pinout diagram really helped me out thanks! But please continue helping me, i need it!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redirocz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey everyone. Well here is the update. I followed the wiring and this is what i got from how he wired the map sensor. The wire going to Pin D17 was correct, the ground was on pin D21 which is correct and tested it with the test light (middle wire on the map sensor) and it is giving a ground properly and also tested it on the P3 plug where it plugs to the map and it is good. But the wire that suppose to go to pinout D19, he made that as a ground and grounded it to the bolt holding the ECU in place (no wire was plugged into D19). What a tard! So after I wired everything back up, I checked the voltages and i am getting around 3 volt on pin D17 which goes to about 4.5-4.8 when my engine got hot and pin D19 starts at 5 volts then goes to 6.6 volts when the engine is hot. I also disconnected my battery for over 5 minutes to reset the ECU, but i still get the Code 3 Map sensor and the VTEC still doesn't guessing because of the MAP Code. Is it possible from being wired incorrectly that the map is deffective or is that impossible?</TD></TR></TABLE>

when i wired my temp sensor backwards i fried it, he could possibley have fried your map sensor. Do you still have your stock motor? If so just grab the map off there and try it out. They are all the same.

 

Hi Everyone. Just wanted to update everyone. My car is now up and running. VTEC works, IDLE is back to where it should be and no more CEL codes. Thanks for everyones help. Problem was resolved by putting another map sensor and wired the map sensor to the ECU properly using the pinout chart that "Dreamer" provided me. Thanks a million!

 

w00tercakes! Told ya so!