Ok, so it's time for me to swap my motor. My question is, is the Integra Type R really worth all the money you pay for it, or are you just paying for the rareness of the motor?

 

pretty much paying for the name.... its a good motor, but for the same price you could build better

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sitinthehall &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok, so it's time for me to swap my motor. My question is, is the Integra Type R really worth all the money you pay for it, or are you just paying for the rareness of the motor? </TD></TR></TABLE>

i love mine...fast, 28mpg, and reliable. i wouldnt get any other motor except a K-series ITR.

 

What you have to ask yourself is are you going to leave it stock. The b18c5 is a very reliable motor and is very fast, think of it like a b18c1 that honda has mildly modified. But if you plan on changing out parts, go with the GSR motor. K series motors are also great, but still to expensive IMO. Also remember that the eg civic and dc2 integra are very similar, and that the b18 (as apposed to say a K series) is a bolt in swap, it was practicly designed for your car.

Aslo, FYI, what made the ITR (the car not just the motor) so great was not just the engine. The suspension is actually very different from the gsr (such as a huge rear sway bar to make the handling more nuetral), the s80 trans (the GSR trans is the y80) has a different final drive and a LSD, and even the unibody of the car itself has extra welds in key areas to stiffen the it.

 

i don't think that it is worth the money but


what car are you puting this in ? if it is an eg get h23a long block and a 5 spead tranny the h23a dohc is a 225 hp and 163 trq stock and the b18c is like 200 hp and 134 trq i think so you pick $4500.00 b18c or 3000.00 in all
200 hp 225 hp
134 trq 163 trq





Modified by H22HondaCRX at 12:05 PM 4/26/2005

 

I have never once regretted doing the B18C5 swap in my 1992 hatch - I've beaten the ****** for FOUR years with zero problems.

It's worth every penney to me.

I'll post my reasons later - I'm out of here!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by polishrifle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What you have to ask yourself is are you going to leave it stock. The b18c5 is a very reliable motor and is very fast, think of it like a b18c1 that honda has mildly modified. But if you plan on changing out parts, go with the GSR motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Agreed. It really all boils down to the long term goals you have. If you are like most people, eventually you will want to mod it whether it be forced induction, bolt-ons or whatever you desire. That's where some people go wrong and end up paying the $ for the ITR and then changing out some of the parts that you paid the big bux for - cams, internals, etc. If you think that the swap will bring you years of smiles and joy then I say go for it. If you're like me and change setups like you do your underwear then I'd settle for something a little less expensive like a GSR.

 

I think I am mostly intrested in the GSR because I will modify it. But, what about the b16a? So now the question is, Should I go b16a or GSR? Is 13 ft/lbs of torque and 10 hp worth $500+?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sitinthehall &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So now the question is, Should I go b16a or GSR? Is 13 ft/lbs of torque worth $500?</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you never plan to overbore or do some bottom end surgery then yes it's worth it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sitinthehall &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think I am mostly intrested in the GSR because I will modify it. But, what about the b16a? So now the question is, Should I go b16a or GSR? Is 13 ft/lbs of torque and 10 hp worth $500+?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hell yes the B18C1 is worth the extra cash.

My wife and I dyno'd our hybrids a long time ago. I had a i/h/e B18C1, while she had a i/h/e re-chipped P28'd B16A2 swap.

I dyno'd 150whp with 122ft-lbs. of torque - the whp was a bit lower than average, but the powerband was crazy fat down low and in the midrange.

She dyno'd 143whp with 102ft-lbs. of torque - I beat my wife's ***.

Any time anyone would drive either car, the B18C1 would assrape the B16A2 at any gievn speed or rpm.

As far as the B18C5 is concerned, if you plan on a build-up save the cash and get the B18C1. The B18C5 is for people like me who want the engine to be 100% OE reliable and don't have huge plans for a build and/or boost.

I've been 100% satisfied with my bolt-ons modded B18C5 for the past 4 years - I have not even added cams, etc.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H22HondaCRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i don't think that it is worth the money but


what car are you puting this in ? if it is an eg get h23a long block and a 5 spead tranny the h23a dohc is a 225 hp and 163 trq stock and the b18c is like 200 hp and 156 trq i think so you pick $4500.00 b18c or 3000.00 in all
200 hp 225 hp
156 trq 163 trq


</TD></TR></TABLE>

The JDM H23A DOHC VTEC is LIKE 200 HP...not LIKE 225 dude

The Euro R is 220 HP and 161 TQ, so that's a little closer...but still expensive!

 

how much hp would i make if i have aem CAI AN-R header 2.5 inch exhaust no cat and hondata dyno tuned? eveything else bone stock jdm ITR

 

Don't worry about the H series. It's out of the question. B series only.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EJtypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how much hp would i make if i have aem CAI AN-R header 2.5 inch exhaust no cat and hondata dyno tuned? eveything else bone stock jdm ITR</TD></TR></TABLE>

On a H22...roughly 190whp and 153 tq.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sitinthehall &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't worry about the H series. It's out of the question. B series only.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

*edit* removed question

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RotiEatter &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

On a H22...roughly 190whp and 153 tq. </TD></TR></TABLE>

stock ITR not H22

 

im been very happy with my C5. ive beat on it hard including tracks days and it takes everything i can throw at it. just bolt ons and its great. i dynoed at 177 hp and 125 tq at the wheels. pretty fast. eventually ill build something for more power but right now its all i need and puts many to shame. power to weight is truely amazing.

misha

 

Just finished my 97 civic coupe itr swap. It's everything i expected it to be. It's the ultimate sleeper. I have a 99 jdm itr swap with kenji programmed p28, CAI, Mugen 4-2-1 one piece header, and my own custom exhaust. I used the muffler off a RSX type S and ran 2.25" piping with a long resonator, no cat. The motor screams! No exhaust noise and flows substantially well. All you hear is the VTEC roar! Can't wait to get it to the track. Tires chirp 3rd gear every time. I had a JDM H22A in my prelude and this thing smokes it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gbert &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Tires chirp 3rd gear every time.</TD></TR></TABLE> Chirping in third doesn't mean ****. My lightened flywheel almost got rid of my 3rd gear chirp (unless I try which would be stupid) and the car is accelerates a little faster.

 

spend the extra grand, it's well worth it. unless you're planing on moding the internals. try to get a 98+ JDM version for the 4.7 FD and 4-1 header. mine is for sale BTW.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H22HondaCRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i don't think that it is worth the money but


what car are you puting this in ? if it is an eg get h23a long block and a 5 spead tranny the h23a dohc is a 225 hp and 163 trq stock and the b18c is like 200 hp and 156 trq i think so you pick $4500.00 b18c or 3000.00 in all
200 hp 225 hp
156 trq 163 trq


</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't know where you dug up those numbers from. The B18C5 makes no where near 156tq.. Not only that, but the H23 is a non Vtec version of the H22 and does NOT put out 225hp. Where did you dig this crap up?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I don't know where you dug up those numbers from. The B18C5 makes no where near 156tq.. Not only that, but the H23 is a non Vtec version of the H22 and does NOT put out 225hp. Where did you dig this crap up?</TD></TR></TABLE>

There is a VTEC H23A found in an Accord wagon in Japan or Europe, but his numbers are still inflated.

Anyways no the B18C5 isn't anywhere near 153 torque. They are rated at maybe 134ft-lbs. at the flywheel, but mine is puhsing 130ft-lbs. to the wheels on a dynojet dyno with i/h/e, cam gears and Uberdata tuning.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

There is a VTEC H23A found in an Accord wagon in Japan or Europe, but his numbers are still inflated.

Anyways no the B18C5 isn't anywhere near 153 torque. They are rated at maybe 134ft-lbs. at the flywheel, but mine is puhsing 130ft-lbs. to the wheels on a dynojet dyno with i/h/e, cam gears and Uberdata tuning.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ahh, the accord-R.. I thought that was an F series though? Oh well... Still the numbers for the C5 are off quite a bit.

Yeah, I put down those torque figures to the wheels with a C1 also. Its easy to bump them up a good amount... but they still don't have no 150ftlbs stock. One could only wish.

 

JDM Wagons have the F23A, the H23A came in teh Euro R wagon, very limited, and only ran for a couple years.