So my car looked like it was burning oil in the engine bay on the dyno, so I pull of the charged pipe on my turbo and gave it some throttle. Once the turbo began to spool, I saw this:









Any ideas?


Modified by Boost Addict at 5:16 PM 4/10/2005

 

Do you got the line from the valve cover hooked up to the pipe still

 

that definatly isnt good. looks like oil is pushing past the seals

 

lol, the oil is supposed to stay in the center cartridge...not come through into the compressor lol

 

hmmm...what size feed and drain line sizes are you using? any oil restrictors being used? any idea what the oil pressure is going to the turbo?

 

maybe your drain being vertical has something to do with this?

 

pm'd

 

i hope to god that isnt your oil return i see thats 90* to the ground... if so, thats why your turbo has taken a **** on you

 

make sure ur oil return line isn't kinked

 

From what I can see, the center cartridge is about 90 degrees from where it should be angled. The oil inlet should be pointing straight up, but no more than 30 degrees from straight up (front to back AND side to side). 'Clock' the cartridge by turning both the compressor and turbine housings. Your drain has to be as unrestrictive as possible. Too long of a run, too sever of an angle, or even too much ring/piston blow-by can cause that to happen. That, and shitty worn seals.

Also, get a heat sheild between the manifold and the charge pipe coupler. Its cheap & easy to do, and should drop intake temps a bit (every bit counts IMO).

 

Ouch..that looks like it's going to be expensive. Everyone else already gave you good advice, hope it all works out for you.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">From what I can see, the center cartridge is about 90 degrees from where it should be angled. The oil inlet should be pointing straight up, but no more than 30 degrees from straight up (front to back AND side to side). 'Clock' the cartridge by turning both the compressor and turbine housings. Your drain has to be as unrestrictive as possible. Too long of a run, too sever of an angle, or even too much ring/piston blow-by can cause that to happen. That, and shitty worn seals.

Also, get a heat sheild between the manifold and the charge pipe coupler. Its cheap & easy to do, and should drop intake temps a bit (every bit counts IMO).</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well the turbo is sitting the same way it was when it came from Greddy. According to them, you are supposed to leave it as-is and just run the return line that way

 

damn homie

 

looks just like my problem on my lude, when i blew all the ringlands to my motor

 

looks like my car when I blew the motor and the turbo also went out cause of all the oil my car was burning.

 

seals are gone

 

yeah, the seals of that turbo are definately gone....if you can find somewhere in the instructions from greddy that they said to leave it that way, you can get them to give you a new turbo for free, hopefully. at least that is what i would do

 

I don't think it needs a new motor Just replace the seals and fix the return line. If the Greddy turbo can't be rebuilt then find a used one.

I like the replies like, "the motor is blown" and "Damn homie". Some people need to quit posting just for the sake of raising thier post count

 

Right now, I'm just praying it's just the turbo

 

its your turbo... trust me

does the motor itself run fine? do a compression and leakdown test if you have time

the reason i say its the turbo is because of the way the turbo is clocked

 

So this should also explain why my car lost about 1/2 qt of oil after 10 dyno runs.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boost Addict &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So this should also explain why my car lost about 1/2 qt of oil after 10 dyno runs.....</TD></TR></TABLE>

only if its cummin through the compressor like the one above, because u losing oil dont mean the same things happened to u as above, could have bad rings and burning it maybe? or maybe leaking from elsewhere.

 

the greddy set up makes it so you hook the valve cover to the intake pipe. that may be your issue. clean it out well. unhook that line and see what it does.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boost Addict &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So this should also explain why my car lost about 1/2 qt of oil after 10 dyno runs.....</TD></TR></TABLE>

LoL... yes, seals would be an explaination...

That really sucks man... <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by project dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the greddy set up makes it so you hook the valve cover to the intake pipe. that may be your issue. clean it out well. unhook that line and see what it does. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea, but I really really doubt that much oil and junk is coming through that tube... the only way that much oil is getting in there is if it's coming through the seals somehow...

How old is the turbo? Does it have some kind of warranty from Greddy?

I haven't heard many people having problems with the Greddy kits, they are known for reliability... I would contact them and ask them what to do. Maybe they will help you out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by project dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the greddy set up makes it so you hook the valve cover to the intake pipe. that may be your issue. clean it out well. unhook that line and see what it does. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree, check the simple stuff first, its either the oil vapor and condensation coming from the valve cover breather that leads to your turbos intake (Greddy Setup specific) or its what everyone else is saying.

But as a former 18G owner, I think its the line coming from the valve cover breather.