Have $1200 to spend on compression. What to do?
I have a GSR with a built top end with Toda valvetrain, Toda "B" cams, and Toda cam gears. Look at my sig for the rest of my setup.
It's time to get some compression into the motor and bring this engine to the next level (about time!). I have roughly $1200 to spend on pistons and/or rods, hardware, and installation.
I want a setup that I will NOT be disappointed down the road. Like, getting spec A cams over spec B cams ... haha. I also want reliablity as the prime facter. This is my ONLY car and I'm a college student. I can't have it break on me nor burn a ton of oil. Ca Peach!
The motor has close to 70,000 miles, which is a lot. This upgrade will basically be my rebuild so I want to do everything done at once. I will replace all bearings and bolts and gaskets as possible.
Now, my questions.
What pistons should I get? I want my compression to be roughly 11.5:1-12:1. Now, what are the disadvantages running 12:1 compression over 11.5:1? I will get everything tuned and have a tuned ECU from GodSpeed. If the engine will be reliable with 12:1 compression then I'm there ... otherwise it's not worth me to rebuild the engine every 10k miles. Again, most be reliable. I was thinking JE, Enydn for 12:1 compression and Spoon JDM ITR pistons for mid 11 compression.
Now, should I replace to rods while the engine is apart? For like a couple of bucks more I can get USED ITR rods. Or should I shell out 3 bills for some NICE Eagle rods? I want this engine to rev to 9300 often (when I race and such). I don't want to be scared to rev to motor that high.
For hardware ... stick with OEM Honda or get ARP?
Any other items I should touch will the motor is disassembled? New valves ... etc?
Now, if PROPERLY built, will this motor last? I do not beat my car ... I just like to enjoy it. If upgrading compression doesn't hurt reliaibilty than I'm all over it as I have the cash in my hand.
It's time to get some compression into the motor and bring this engine to the next level (about time!). I have roughly $1200 to spend on pistons and/or rods, hardware, and installation.
I want a setup that I will NOT be disappointed down the road. Like, getting spec A cams over spec B cams ... haha. I also want reliablity as the prime facter. This is my ONLY car and I'm a college student. I can't have it break on me nor burn a ton of oil. Ca Peach!
The motor has close to 70,000 miles, which is a lot. This upgrade will basically be my rebuild so I want to do everything done at once. I will replace all bearings and bolts and gaskets as possible.
Now, my questions.
What pistons should I get? I want my compression to be roughly 11.5:1-12:1. Now, what are the disadvantages running 12:1 compression over 11.5:1? I will get everything tuned and have a tuned ECU from GodSpeed. If the engine will be reliable with 12:1 compression then I'm there ... otherwise it's not worth me to rebuild the engine every 10k miles. Again, most be reliable. I was thinking JE, Enydn for 12:1 compression and Spoon JDM ITR pistons for mid 11 compression.
Now, should I replace to rods while the engine is apart? For like a couple of bucks more I can get USED ITR rods. Or should I shell out 3 bills for some NICE Eagle rods? I want this engine to rev to 9300 often (when I race and such). I don't want to be scared to rev to motor that high.
For hardware ... stick with OEM Honda or get ARP?
Any other items I should touch will the motor is disassembled? New valves ... etc?
Now, if PROPERLY built, will this motor last? I do not beat my car ... I just like to enjoy it. If upgrading compression doesn't hurt reliaibilty than I'm all over it as I have the cash in my hand.
If you are looking for pistons, a friend of mine has a set of JUN/Cosworth pistons brand new. He is looking to get rid of them really cheap. They list for like 1400 new and he would probably let them go for less than half of that. The compression ratio on your motor would be 12:1. Let me know. Also spend the money on new rods if you can afford it. Give Mike K a call at Naple Acura he can hook you up.
Keep saving if you want to do it right. Rods=350 for eagles, 550 for endyn pistons, plus while your in there replace all the gaskets and main/rod bearings=350-400. Then your also gonna want machine work (go to 81.5) thats about 150-200. Not to mention the labor to pull it out,take it appart,put it back together and reinstall it. Parts are about 1400-1500 alone without labor.
.25 over bore CTR pistons
Balanced GSR or ITR rods
use stock head bolts only
The most important thing here is proper machining/assembly.
That is what will make or break ANY setup you choose to go with.
Balanced GSR or ITR rods
use stock head bolts only
The most important thing here is proper machining/assembly.
That is what will make or break ANY setup you choose to go with.
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Installation and OEM parts will be paid part be me and part by another party. Performance parts will come out of my wallet. Forget about my budget ...
Again, will it be OEM reliable to up the compression?
Again, will it be OEM reliable to up the compression?
if you can do all the labor yourself, then go with the CTR pistons/Type R rods setup - since you have 70K miles on your block, do the .25mm oversized pistojs which means boring and honing your block.
If you cant do any of the work yourself, which includes a simple head pull ... then pay someone the money to rip your head off and mill the head about 30 thousandths of an inch. Before that, do a leakdown and compression tests .. if the results are good then continue with this option if not, you should save up the labor money and do the CTR combo above.
Greg
If you cant do any of the work yourself, which includes a simple head pull ... then pay someone the money to rip your head off and mill the head about 30 thousandths of an inch. Before that, do a leakdown and compression tests .. if the results are good then continue with this option if not, you should save up the labor money and do the CTR combo above.
Greg
Spoke to someone locally, and adviced me to stay mid 11 compression if I want relaibility. Can someone tell me why 12:1 compression is not as reliable as 11.5:1 compression?
Spoke to someone locally, and adviced me to stay mid 11 compression if I want relaibility. Can someone tell me why 12:1 compression is not as reliable as 11.5:1 compression?
you'll be fine with 12.5:1...fuel/timing tuning is the thing you have to worry about. Go with the endyn rw high compression pistons and keep your stock rods.
ya, these days ive heard that 12-12.6:1 is the norm..especially on the Honda-Tech board...the only fool proof way to safeguard against pinging is tuning like everyone else said, as well as a J and S Safeguard...save up some cash for a standalone, or at the least, get a VAFC
[Modified by SpoonCivic, 3:23 AM 1/30/2002]
[Modified by SpoonCivic, 3:23 AM 1/30/2002]
ya, these days ive heard that 12-12.6:1 is the norm..especially on the Honda-Tech board...the only fool proof way to safeguard against pinging is tuning like everyone else said...save up some cash for a standalone, or at the least, get a VAFC
detonation.
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