what is the most any one has turned a honda crank and not had it heat treated.
I'm told the factory heat treating is about .006" deep. I have never had any luck with turning a honda crank. It is always better to just replace it.
Ive been told its only about .003 deep from the factory.
I have 2 cranks here with .001 turned off of each journal, both of which were re heat treated.
I have 2 cranks here with .001 turned off of each journal, both of which were re heat treated.
The most I ever do to a Honda crank is a good polish. Anything more and I consider them junk.
yup first step is visual inspection. We always polish our cranks in all the builds. Usually if its in bad condition, we dont even try to use it anymore. Its best to just get another Crank.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by exospeedAMcrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yup first step is visual inspection. We always polish our cranks in all the builds. Usually if its in bad condition, we dont even try to use it anymore. Its best to just get another Crank. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Im curious as to why you consider them junk if material is to be removed? Is it due to bearing clearances and the lack of oversized bearing availability?
(speaking in terms of rod journals)
Im curious as to why you consider them junk if material is to be removed? Is it due to bearing clearances and the lack of oversized bearing availability?
(speaking in terms of rod journals)
Turning main journals is a waste of time and I will agree with those who say to just scrap a crank if you are in fact refering to main journals.
Rod journals on the other hand I think are a different story.
There are numerous cars out there with offset ground rod journals or resized/turned journals (1.888 to 1.771 or 1.771 to 1.654, etc) making a ton of power on both the track and street. All seem to run extremely well.
Rod journals on the other hand I think are a different story.
There are numerous cars out there with offset ground rod journals or resized/turned journals (1.888 to 1.771 or 1.771 to 1.654, etc) making a ton of power on both the track and street. All seem to run extremely well.
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i was just simply trying to weigh the good and the bad.....this just a old and worn out motor that i have these parts laying around.but i can make them all work together....except for the turning.which is ROD JOURNALS ONLY?......just want something to play w/till my rods come in for my deck plated set up.
i thought about just having them turned down and just see what happens and let you guys know...if it goes it goes no biggie.....but i have always wondered about this.
and my friend innovation.....how did i know you would be in this thread....YOU HEAT TREAT a crank after only taking .001 off....you have that to play w/on a stock crank....althought it is not very much to play with.
i thought about just having them turned down and just see what happens and let you guys know...if it goes it goes no biggie.....but i have always wondered about this.
and my friend innovation.....how did i know you would be in this thread....YOU HEAT TREAT a crank after only taking .001 off....you have that to play w/on a stock crank....althought it is not very much to play with.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1700anddroping »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and my friend innovation.....how did i know you would be in this thread....YOU HEAT TREAT a crank after only taking .001 off....you have that to play w/on a stock crank....althought it is not very much to play with.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I dont overlook anything, any time rod journals are ground for any reason I re heat treat them.. period.
Better to be safe than sorry IMO
I dont overlook anything, any time rod journals are ground for any reason I re heat treat them.. period.
Better to be safe than sorry IMO
The only reason you need to turn rod journals is if something went wrong. When you spin a rod bearing, it generates so much heat that many times it warps the crank. Straightening the crank just adds more abuse to the situation. Heat treating runs close to $200 at Castillo Crankshaft.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The only reason you need to turn rod journals is if something went wrong. When you spin a rod bearing, it generates so much heat that many times it warps the crank. Straightening the crank just adds more abuse to the situation. Heat treating runs close to $200 at Castillo Crankshaft.</TD></TR></TABLE>
haha, yeah, I ran into this with my lawnmower. It was like 15 years old and spun a bearing, I had the crank ground down and rebuilt the motor, and it always runs rough now because the crank was warped. You can feel that on a motor that turns maybe like 2000 RPM's, imagine that on a 9000+ RPM motor, yikes. With the abundance of cranks in the JY I would sooner scrap the crank and get a new one from the JY for a few hundred.
haha, yeah, I ran into this with my lawnmower. It was like 15 years old and spun a bearing, I had the crank ground down and rebuilt the motor, and it always runs rough now because the crank was warped. You can feel that on a motor that turns maybe like 2000 RPM's, imagine that on a 9000+ RPM motor, yikes. With the abundance of cranks in the JY I would sooner scrap the crank and get a new one from the JY for a few hundred.
i guess i should have made it clear.i am building a oem parts ls/vtec stroker using the 90 model prelude crank....i am going to turn the rod journals down to a b series rod journal...and thats it....i am just going to turn the rod journals down and see what happens.....
like i said this is something that is just slapped together...to have a little fun till my custom rods come in.i'll let you know how it comes out.
like i said this is something that is just slapped together...to have a little fun till my custom rods come in.i'll let you know how it comes out.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecmissle »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this has been done many times before with out any problems. go for it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
w/o heat treating.
w/o heat treating.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1700anddroping »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i am going to turn the rod journals down to a b series rod journal...and thats it....i am just going to turn the rod journals down and see what happens....</TD></TR></TABLE>
Its been forever since Ive looked at one of those cranks but from what I remember the journals are 1.771, the same diameter as the rest of the B series motors. You have to do a little thrust modification to make that crank work in the B18A-B/C blocks. I remember some of those cranks having .858 width rods as well, I could be wrong on that though.
Also, if you plan on using all OE parts your stuck with B16 rods if you plan to use a 1.181 compression OE height piston.
Its been forever since Ive looked at one of those cranks but from what I remember the journals are 1.771, the same diameter as the rest of the B series motors. You have to do a little thrust modification to make that crank work in the B18A-B/C blocks. I remember some of those cranks having .858 width rods as well, I could be wrong on that though.
Also, if you plan on using all OE parts your stuck with B16 rods if you plan to use a 1.181 compression OE height piston.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Innovation »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Its been forever since Ive looked at one of those cranks but from what I remember the journals are 1.771, the same diameter as the rest of the B series motors. You have to do a little thrust modification to make that crank work in the B18A-B/C blocks. I remember some of those cranks having .858 width rods as well, I could be wrong on that though.
Also, if you plan on using all OE parts your stuck with B16 rods if you plan to use a 1.181 compression OE height piston.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes i know all of this....but the crank i have does not have b-series rod journals...they have h-series rod journal.....and yes i know about the thrust washer deal to.i built this motor yrs ago....but it wa sheat treated when i already got it.
plus i used a special bearing from a jeep....that i just cut in half and did some modifying for the thrust washers....worked perfect.....compression was 13:8:1...for what i had in it...she was very mean.
yes like i said this is something to play with till my custom rods come in.......i do not care about r/s on this one....and it is believe me a C W K.
Its been forever since Ive looked at one of those cranks but from what I remember the journals are 1.771, the same diameter as the rest of the B series motors. You have to do a little thrust modification to make that crank work in the B18A-B/C blocks. I remember some of those cranks having .858 width rods as well, I could be wrong on that though.
Also, if you plan on using all OE parts your stuck with B16 rods if you plan to use a 1.181 compression OE height piston.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes i know all of this....but the crank i have does not have b-series rod journals...they have h-series rod journal.....and yes i know about the thrust washer deal to.i built this motor yrs ago....but it wa sheat treated when i already got it.
plus i used a special bearing from a jeep....that i just cut in half and did some modifying for the thrust washers....worked perfect.....compression was 13:8:1...for what i had in it...she was very mean.
yes like i said this is something to play with till my custom rods come in.......i do not care about r/s on this one....and it is believe me a C W K.
.002 is the most Ive seen and thats ballzy ****, cant tell you if it lasted or not though. I dont think it did, the same guy ended up with a new motor the next time I saw him so I really couldnt tell you.
Going from 1.888 to 1.771 is far beyond the heat treat depth. I dont expect it to last long at all.
Going from 1.888 to 1.771 is far beyond the heat treat depth. I dont expect it to last long at all.
This is going off on a little bit of a tangent, but are there oversized rod journals out there? Like if I spun a rod bearing and it scarred the rod, could I smooth it out and use an oversized rod bearing or is that rods just toast?
yes there are cranks out there...that you can have turned down....and make other rods fit.but as far as rods go...you have to have them resized....if they are real bad you need to just get a new one...or find another one that is good and meet specs.
i know this is my thread....but i have decided against building the ls/vtec stroker...and going w/a h22....so i went from turning rod journals to main journals...and they have been turned from 55 mm down to 50....YES THAT IS A HELL OF ALOT.....but i will let you guys know how it turns out.
i know this is my thread....but i have decided against building the ls/vtec stroker...and going w/a h22....so i went from turning rod journals to main journals...and they have been turned from 55 mm down to 50....YES THAT IS A HELL OF ALOT.....but i will let you guys know how it turns out.
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