Wastegate Diaphragm is ripped - Crazy glue for quick fix?
I'll be replacing it with another wastegate, but i need some quick fix for right now.. so what type of glue can be used??
suggestions??
--------------------!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
UPDATE: Rubber cement only helped with dirt removal.so i went w/ high temp rtv silicone gasket maker. and reinstalled everything after 24 hours.. looks like this stuff works.
Modified by vtec.dc2 at 5:49 PM 4/14/2005
suggestions??
--------------------!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
UPDATE: Rubber cement only helped with dirt removal.so i went w/ high temp rtv silicone gasket maker. and reinstalled everything after 24 hours.. looks like this stuff works.
Modified by vtec.dc2 at 5:49 PM 4/14/2005
your avatar doesn't suck but your WG idea does. I'm all for rigging stuff if needed but this is one thing you don't want to mcguyver together IMO
it can't get worse than already is.. this is my second diaphragm.. so i'll be replacing entire wastegate.. worst thing that will hapen it won't work... i got overboost protection via ebc
The wastegate diaphram is the rubber piece separating the side vacuum port from the top vacuum port right?
If so, I think if it were ripped the wastegate wouldn't hold boost correctly. I mean, it wouldn't overboost...
If that's the case, it's not going to kill you to drive your car. So, I would try to fix it with some crazy glue or a tire repair kit and hope it works. At least if it leaks you won't overboost (if I'm thinking correctly about the function of the diaphram)...
If so, I think if it were ripped the wastegate wouldn't hold boost correctly. I mean, it wouldn't overboost...
If that's the case, it's not going to kill you to drive your car. So, I would try to fix it with some crazy glue or a tire repair kit and hope it works. At least if it leaks you won't overboost (if I'm thinking correctly about the function of the diaphram)...
Trending Topics
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EJ1 wilcox »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> (if I'm thinking correctly about the function of the diaphram)...</TD></TR></TABLE>
no.. it goes the other way.. a leak/rip in diaphragm will overboost.. as in my case
no.. it goes the other way.. a leak/rip in diaphragm will overboost.. as in my case
Who is Mr Robot?
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 21,474
Likes: 10
From: ATL - Where the Pimps and Players dwell
how bout **** NO
if you really wanna ghetto rig it... a tire patching kit is your best bet
if you really wanna ghetto rig it... a tire patching kit is your best bet
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec.dc2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no.. it goes the other way.. a leak/rip in diaphragm will overboost.. as in my case</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh, well then, I wouldn't risk it!
<--- still need to figure out how wastegates work mechanically, I even took mine apart one time to see if I could understand it better...
Oh, well then, I wouldn't risk it!
<--- still need to figure out how wastegates work mechanically, I even took mine apart one time to see if I could understand it better...
trying rubber cement.. doubt it will work.. car still drives as long as you watch wot, my ebc has overboost feature, so that helps prevent trouble.. but its unstable.. same setting can have different boost levels
this is tial 35mm.. i don't know if ill get another tial product.. the only turbo part i had problems with.
this is tial 35mm.. i don't know if ill get another tial product.. the only turbo part i had problems with.
funny thing this has happened to me... purchased a tial wg and whoever pieced it together must have ripped a tiny cut in the diaphragm. i used some silicone glue and let it dry over nite. holding boost just fine, but it is risky...
ehhhh i wouldn't try just a quick fix man. i actually had this exact same problem with my greddy kit on my 93 coupe....
the kit that i had recieved used, the turbo was basically junk on it and the rod had snapped, so i just tossed it BUT kept the wastegate actuator arm. with the new turbo i got (used also, but still no shaft play), it didn't come with an arm, so i just used the one from my old turbo. well come to find out, the reason the first turbo took a **** in the first place, was that the diaphram inside the actuator had a slight tear/rip in it. so my neighbor who is an automotive tech and knows his **** about stuff, decided to give the good ol' tire repair kit a try. well, turns out this aparently wasn't the best of ideas, as it didn't hold and basically tore instantly again and well, the newer turbo needless to say took a **** on me also and was complete junk when the arm wouldn't open and close properly due to the janky diaphram i thought i would get away with
if i were you, i would look at a couple places like ATPturbo.com, Phoenixturbo.com, CheapTurbo.com to see if you can purchase a whole new actuator arm instead of trying to fix just the diaphram. i'm still kicking myself for not doing this the first time..... Hope that helped ya a little
the kit that i had recieved used, the turbo was basically junk on it and the rod had snapped, so i just tossed it BUT kept the wastegate actuator arm. with the new turbo i got (used also, but still no shaft play), it didn't come with an arm, so i just used the one from my old turbo. well come to find out, the reason the first turbo took a **** in the first place, was that the diaphram inside the actuator had a slight tear/rip in it. so my neighbor who is an automotive tech and knows his **** about stuff, decided to give the good ol' tire repair kit a try. well, turns out this aparently wasn't the best of ideas, as it didn't hold and basically tore instantly again and well, the newer turbo needless to say took a **** on me also and was complete junk when the arm wouldn't open and close properly due to the janky diaphram i thought i would get away with
if i were you, i would look at a couple places like ATPturbo.com, Phoenixturbo.com, CheapTurbo.com to see if you can purchase a whole new actuator arm instead of trying to fix just the diaphram. i'm still kicking myself for not doing this the first time..... Hope that helped ya a little
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by macroresin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">funny thing this has happened to me... purchased a tial wg and whoever pieced it together must have ripped a tiny cut in the diaphragm. i used some silicone glue and let it dry over nite. holding boost just fine, but it is risky...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Word, it worked! I tuned this f00s car like this and it held boost perfectly
Word, it worked! I tuned this f00s car like this and it held boost perfectly
Overboost protection on an EBC doesn't work without a functioning wastegate. How do you think the boost is limited/reduced?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Wideopentuning »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Overboost protection on an EBC doesn't work without a functioning wastegate. How do you think the boost is limited/reduced? </TD></TR></TABLE>
i don't think it has anything to do with wastegate being open, closed, or having a ripped diaphragm.. you set the level where overboost protection should kick in, decide how much to pull back (and that i'm guessing is opening vaccum port??) - i'm not 100% sure how it works, but it does
i don't think it has anything to do with wastegate being open, closed, or having a ripped diaphragm.. you set the level where overboost protection should kick in, decide how much to pull back (and that i'm guessing is opening vaccum port??) - i'm not 100% sure how it works, but it does
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec.dc2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i don't think it has anything to do with wastegate being open, closed, or having a ripped diaphragm.. you set the level where overboost protection should kick in, decide how much to pull back (and that i'm guessing is opening vaccum port??) - i'm not 100% sure how it works, but it does</TD></TR></TABLE>
boost cut can retard timing, cut fuel, etc... therefore combustion cant take place
i don't think it has anything to do with wastegate being open, closed, or having a ripped diaphragm.. you set the level where overboost protection should kick in, decide how much to pull back (and that i'm guessing is opening vaccum port??) - i'm not 100% sure how it works, but it does</TD></TR></TABLE>
boost cut can retard timing, cut fuel, etc... therefore combustion cant take place
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Wideopentuning »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Overboost protection on an EBC doesn't work without a functioning wastegate. How do you think the boost is limited/reduced? </TD></TR></TABLE>
By dropping the timing and cutting fuel at the same time. Why would you think there is something called a fuel cut defencer or boost cut controller for factory turbo cars?
By dropping the timing and cutting fuel at the same time. Why would you think there is something called a fuel cut defencer or boost cut controller for factory turbo cars?
no.. not hondata boost cut.. i'm talking about blitz ebc.. when i had vacuum port loose onto wastegate, it overboosted really quick and that feature didn't react fast enough.. but with diaphragm ripped, it did something to pull back once boost reached the set level.
UPDATE: Rubber cement only helped with dirt removal. just finished applying high temp rtv silicone gasket maker. gotta let it dry for 24 hours before reintalling. tial wastegate needs stronger material for diaphragm, anyobody having overboost problems or simply higher boost levels than before, double check your diaphragm
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by macroresin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">funny thing this has happened to me... purchased a tial wg and whoever pieced it together must have ripped a tiny cut in the diaphragm. i used some silicone glue and let it dry over nite. holding boost just fine, but it is risky...</TD></TR></TABLE>
hey, thanks again for advice.. silicon glue worked out good!!! i let it sit for at least 24 hours, applied on both sides of the tear.. and sanded the rough surface with spin sand-brush or whatever you call it.. i think thats what caused it in the first place.
hey, thanks again for advice.. silicon glue worked out good!!! i let it sit for at least 24 hours, applied on both sides of the tear.. and sanded the rough surface with spin sand-brush or whatever you call it.. i think thats what caused it in the first place.




