its 5 hours away so i want it to be worth it. it has 69k mi and its white with black leather. he says the everything is original. and never been in an accident. but the emblem on the front is gone. how do i know that the motor in there is original. what kinda things should i look for so i know its a good car and i'm not just buying someone elses problem? this is my first REAL car and i want it to be a good one. oh yea...its a 95

 

Your going to drive five hours for a GSR!! It better be in good condition. Pop the hood and if the valve cover says 'DOHC VTEC' then its a GSR. Look at the RPM gauges, redline should be at 8000 RPM. And all GSR's come in manual transmission. Hope this helps you.

 

there is a mark stamped on the front of the block that will say b18c on it. as for it being the original motor in the car i don't know how to tell.

 

...In addition, while you have the hood up, make sure all VIN numbers match and if you also want to know if it is truly a GSR, look on the engine block "B18C" should be etched.

 

where do i match the vin behind the windshield too? how would i be able to tell if the car has had major body work done to it? i've only driven a gsr once before and not to familiar with how the b18c is suppose to sound. i just have a reg non vtec civic.

 

Make sure the VIN's match. Theres one on the front wind shield left of the steering wheel. One located in the front doors. Open the doors, and you'll see it near the seats.
There's also VIN's on the engine compartment. Make sure they all match up.
Check the VIN on carfax.com to make sure it has a clean title.

Ask to see if he has any records of services done. Why he's selling. Depending on the mileage, there are certain maintenance services that needs to be done.
Ask if the car was stolen/vandalized..etc.

When you pop the hood, you should see "DOHC VTEC" printed on the engine.
Since it's a GSR, you need to pay attention to the gear shifts. shift through all gears while driving, making sure there are no grinds.

Go for a test drive, ask the owner's permission if you can rev it. Try reving above 5k and see if everything's okay. See whether black/blue...etc smoke comes out of the exhaust.

Hit the brakes and see if the car shakes. If it does, it has warped rotors. Easily fixable, but you should negotiate the price keeping in mind any resonable problems the car has.
There are some other things to look out for, but nothing comes to my mind.

Go to KBB.com or autotrader.com and check to see the value of the car.
Take a friend with you so you don't make any mistakes like falling in love with the car before you even drive it.

This is VERY important. Unless you're very knowledgeable about cars, ask to take the car to a shop or Acura dealership to have the entire car checked.

The mechanics will be able to tell whether the car was in an accident, what needs to be fixed...etc which will give you a general idea of what the condition the car is in. Also do a compression test since its a '95. At the dealership, the inspection costs around 70~75. Compression test is an additional 70 or so.

The inspection is a MUST.

These inspections take at least 2 hours so talk to the owner and arrange an appointment.
HTH

 

I agree

 

B18C1!

 

tip #1 by my gsr 98 for 11500

 

The fenders on my car have the VIN# on a decal on each of them inside the engine compartment. I belive there are decals on the inside of the doors too. If these stickers are missing, it COULD be cause for suspiscion. (Bear in mind that the stickers may have never been there or have fallen off, but if they are there it is likely the original panel). VINs will be on the inside hatch, windshield, and inside the drivers door jamb.

Everyone basically hit the major issues. The GSR is a very reliable proven design. Chances are that you are not going to get a headache, but be careful.

 

good advise guys

 

Read the above posts and to re-emphasize, ASK ASK ASK QUESTIONS. Ask for records, ask for explanations. The seller should not have a problem answering them. Some people tend to shy away from asking too much because as humans, we like to believe that the people we are dealing with are honest. Just ask. If I were to sell a car, I like the potential buyer to be asking hella questions.

 

strongly recomend this.. i decided on NOT buying 3 different cars after i had the dealers check them out.. as far as the VIN's go u can verify them yourself, but mechanically ur pretty limited.. except for i guess the cv's, struts n stuff... but i almost bout a car that needed 2500 in repairs!! but as far as the eye could see it was perfect.. turned out needing everything from a release bearing to a rearmain seal...

 

You can also get a Carfax report... This will help with the history of the GSR.

http://www.carfax.com/

 

Oh, I don't know if this was mentioned or not. Ask for any or all maintenence reports, see if the timing belt has been changed. Considering it has nearly 70k miles on it if may need it done. While you get that changed, replace the water pump as well. I have been listening to a car show on the radio in my local area and the guy insists on replacing the water pump when you have a timing belt changed.


[Modified by Designbot, 7:34 AM 1/29/2002]

 

Having the water pump replaced while the timing belt replaced is due to the hours of work it's going to take.
It's a "While I'm at it, I might as well" kind of situation. While you're replacing the timing belt, you might as well change the water pump since that part of the engine needs to be accessed anyways. This way it saves you money since all the work is done at once.

 

"dohc vtec"? a b18c1 is a little more complicating than that...this guy could drive home w/ a b16 in his car. get it checked out by acura, that is the safest way...if the guy has any objections to this it is obviously a sign that hes up to something. (get compression test done, pay the extra money.)


[Modified by turbo01gsr, 1:43 AM 1/29/2002]

 

Make sure to rev the car, listen for the infamous header rattle. That is a real common issue w/ 94-95 tegs. You can discount the car by like $400, then go buy a nice used aftermarket one off this board for around $200.

 

Check the bodywork! Unfortunately, not everybody is honest about stuff like accidents. Look to make sure the panels are straight, the color and texture of the paint match. Check inside the doors to make sure there are no obvious signs of spotty repair.

 

anyone have a unlimited car fax wanna run one for me? JH4DC2383SS007438
i'm headed there this sat. when i do the compression test....how many times do i crank the motor? and how would i know that i cranked it that many times to get a good reading?

 

take the car to the dealer and have them do the compression test....

 

They do it for you, you don't have to move a finger.

EDIT: Do know that the difference between the four numbers should not be greater than +/- 20. The guys at the dealership will explain to you if you just ask them.
Stock B18C should have a compression test result of around 200psi.
[Modified by Calavera, 8:38 PM 1/29/2002]


[Modified by Calavera, 9:20 PM 1/29/2002]

 

VIN:
Yr/Make/Model:
Body:
Engine:
Fuel:
Driveline:
Aspiration:
Country Mfg.: JH4DC2383SS007438
1995 Acura Integra GSR
2D H/B Subcompact car
1.8L L4 PFI DOHC VTEC
Gasoline
Front-wheel Drive
Normal
Japan

Problem Titles Checked: Results:
Salvage/Junk Checked - No Salvage/Junk Title Found
Rebuilt/Reconstructed Checked - No Rebuilt/Reconstructed Title Found
Flood Damage Checked - No Flood Damage Title Found
Damage Disclosure Checked - No Damage Disclosure Found
Manufacturer Buyback (LEMON) Checked - No Manufacturer Buyback Found
Exceeds Mechanical Limits (EML) Checked - No EML Found
Not Actual Mileage (NAM) Checked - No NAM Found

Date Reported: Odometer Reading:
09/07/1995 20 Reported on 08/12/1995

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

04/22/1998 25,650

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Problems Checked: Results:
Accident Checked - No Accident Record Found
Salvage Auction Checked - No Salvage Auction Record Found
Failed Emissions Inspection Checked - No Failed Emissions Record Found
Fire Damage Checked - No Fire Damage Record Found
Crash Test Vehicle Checked - No Crash Test Vehicle Record Found
Grey Market Vehicle Checked - No Grey Market Vehicle Record Found

Registrations Checked: Results:
Lease Checked - No Lease Registration Found
Rental Checked - No Rental Registration Found
Government Checked - No Government Registration Found
Taxi Checked - No Taxi Registration Found
Fleet Checked - No Fleet Registration Found
Commercial Checked - No Commercial Registration Found
Non-Profit Checked - No Non-Profit Registration Found

DATE
REPORTED ODOMETER
READING INFORMATION
SOURCE GENERAL
COMMENTS

09/01/1995 California
Motor Vehicle Dept.
Registered as private vehicle





--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

09/07/1995 20 California
Motor Vehicle Dept.
Title issued
Odometer reading recorded on 08/12/1995





--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

04/22/1998 25,650 Illinois
Motor Vehicle Dept.
Highland Park, IL
Title #T8112508039
Title issued





--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

08/11/1998 34,828 Auto Inventory
Schaumburg, IL
Offered for sale at dealership





--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

09/02/1998 34,843 Illinois
Motor Vehicle Dept.
Elgin, IL
Title #T8245503019
Title issued





--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

03/24/2000 59,000 Illinois
Inspection Station
Schaumburg, IL
Passed emissions inspection





--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

07/17/2001 69,445 Wisconsin
Motor Vehicle Dept.
Milwaukee, WI
Title #0119840069
Title or registration issued
Odometer reading recorded on 07/17/2001


08/11/1998 34,828

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

09/02/1998 34,843

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

03/24/2000 59,000

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

07/17/2001 69,445

Hope tha helps u.. anyone else, i got till the 2/17/02 of free carfax n will post up any VIN's u want checked




[Modified by fiebru1119, 6:04 AM 1/30/2002]

 

per the carfax report above: 07/17/2001 69,445

6 months have passed and its still at 69K?

anyway like everyone said see if the VIN on the motor matches the VIN on the lower windshield stamp, and doors, see that all the paint on the panels match, see that it says B18C1 on the block, as for any/all maintenance/repair records, see if it has trouble going into gears. my car sometimes has trouble going into reverse.. and see if it shifts smoothly/w/o grinding...

check that the A/C and blower, stereo and all speakers work (i've had friends check out cars where not all speakers work), listen to hear if motor is running smooth, brake to see if the rotors are warped or brakes are squeaking, check condition and wear pattern of tires to look for unusual wear, see if there is any smoke coming out of the exhaust when you start it up, and or drive it/rev it up.. look for odd gaps/clearances in the body panels..

and get it checked out by a reputable mechanic or the acura dealer..