obd 1 converted mini me.....need code 9 help
My setup is a 91 crx si with 120k miles on it, stock bottom end, d16z6 head, dizzy, and new 4 wire o2 sensor, also new timing belt water pump and all of that sort of thing. I used a Jkobd conversion harness for the p28 and a dizzy conversion harness from rywire. Car is timed and seems to run fairly well. (it really doesn't seem a lot faster than my stock a6 I even had the head milled and a valve job just to make sure everything was good) but my ECU is throwing a code 9. I checked the ohms of resistance between those bottom two wires on the dizzy connector and got 460 ohms....so I figure the CYP sensor is good....I have double and triple checked all of my wiring and I am sure all of that is also good. Car is in perfect time and I have cam and crank lined up perfect. The only wires I didn't use on the JK conversion harness were knock sensor and that one for the gs-r....I just capped them off. I went through and redid all of my ground wires and cleaned all of the connections to make sure I didn't have a bad ground. the only wires I don't have hooked up are the stock 1 wire o2 plug....should I splice this into the signal wire for my new 4 wire o2????....that and the oil pressure sending unit (since it had an oild pressure gauge installed the previous owner jsut disconnected this to instal the gauge it is just a one wire connection right above the oil filter)? do you guys think any of these could be the culprits of this code 9......I would ove to hear any suggestions from anyone...I am in dire need to get this fixed....thanx guys
CAsey
CAsey
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gnar kill »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the only wires I don't have hooked up are the stock 1 wire o2 plug....should I splice this into the signal wire for my new 4 wire o2????</TD></TR></TABLE>
The old 1-wire O2 should do nothing now, wire go no where, not hooked to ECU in any way shape or form.
The 4-wire O2 wiring is all taken care of on the ECU jumper's pigtail, as long as those wires go to your 4-wire O2 you're cool.
Check continuity across the JKOBD jumper harness at C1 and C2 on the OBD0 side.
It is possible to break the pins at the plug if you have to bend it or rough it up.
The old 1-wire O2 should do nothing now, wire go no where, not hooked to ECU in any way shape or form.
The 4-wire O2 wiring is all taken care of on the ECU jumper's pigtail, as long as those wires go to your 4-wire O2 you're cool.
Check continuity across the JKOBD jumper harness at C1 and C2 on the OBD0 side.
It is possible to break the pins at the plug if you have to bend it or rough it up.
just checked......had continuity.....harness looks good.....thanx for the advice.....any more suggestions just keep em comin guys
there is no continuity when I go from the bottom two terminals of the dizzy plug to the ground....so I am almost certain the problem is not in the distributer....I think I am gonna go and look over my jumper harness and double check to make sure every one goes where it should.....does anyone else have any other ideas for me??
if you have no continuity on the bottom 2, get a new distributor. i chased that problem like a month. got new spark plug wires, cap, rotor, didnt fix it. bought a new distributor and the code was gone. i say do that first. distributors are on ebay for 149 shipped. thats where i got mine from and i have no complaints. it works great. good luck
I am almost certain that when you check for continuity from the f and g terminals to the ground individual you are not suppose to have continuity if you do have continuity then you replace the dizzy.....that is from a PDF file of a haynes maual I am lookin at right now....but thanx...please help guys
Casey
Casey

thats from the honda manual. if you have resistance in the circuit, then you have continuity. if you test resistance and it says zero, there is no continuity.
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I was lookin at that exact same thing and In my first post I said I had 460 ohms of resistance between the f and g terminals..... I said I did not have continuity when I tested f and g individually when I went from each one to the ground...(it is the box right below the one you circled) and as you can see in the picture you posted if you have continuity replace the dizzy and if not the dizzy is good
sorry just a little misunderstanding...thanx for the help though now any one else got any ideas I would love to hear em
sorry just a little misunderstanding...thanx for the help though now any one else got any ideas I would love to hear em
ok i get it, heh sorry, you dont have continuity on the wiring harness plug, not the distributor plug. i just saw f and g terminals and didnt check for sure which side you were talking about.
when i tested my wiring harness connector i did not have continuity either.. so that is correct. my distributor plug also did not have continuity though, and that is why i replaced mine.
i think your best bet if you dont have enough money for a new distributor is to go to a junk yard and try to find one there. the strange thing is that if your car was running fine with no code before.. i know you said you triple checked your wiring, but something that always happens to me is the little connector clip inside the plug for the harness slips out when you put them together for the first time. i did that with my new distributor, and it was throwing a code 8 with a brand new distributor, and it turns out one of the clips in the cap had just not made a good connection. i dont know, just a suggestion and a free bump. good luck
when i tested my wiring harness connector i did not have continuity either.. so that is correct. my distributor plug also did not have continuity though, and that is why i replaced mine.
i think your best bet if you dont have enough money for a new distributor is to go to a junk yard and try to find one there. the strange thing is that if your car was running fine with no code before.. i know you said you triple checked your wiring, but something that always happens to me is the little connector clip inside the plug for the harness slips out when you put them together for the first time. i did that with my new distributor, and it was throwing a code 8 with a brand new distributor, and it turns out one of the clips in the cap had just not made a good connection. i dont know, just a suggestion and a free bump. good luck
thanx guys.....yeah I am hesitant to replace the dizzy because the kid I got it from said it was good when he took it off....but you never know....it runs good....I actually just took it to the friday night drags the other night and it pulled pretty well......the idle surges from 1000 to 1200 rpm for about 30 secs before it drops down to about 600 (when warm)....it also kind of surges funny when goin down hills in first gear just idleing....I dunno it is a little weird...oh yeah I bought new plugs and wires before I did my obd 1 conversion....but yeah I might try to get a new dizzy from dizzy king.....but if that don't fix the prob I will feel real stupid.....Jason sent me the connections to check on my conversion harness and if they are all good that is what I am gonna do thanx guys
just checked all wires in the jumper harness and they are exactly what they should be.....checked the hole engine harness and it is good(with mulimeter) and I am at the conclusion that it is either dizzy or ecu.....dizzy tests good I need to find someone with a p28 ecu to test if mine is bad.
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