I searched...a little. time is a factor and i need to get this taken care of today. just failed emissions. HC and CO are ok...the only place i failed was the Idle Limit.

Idle Limit: 220
Idle Emissions: 250

any ideas on what i need to do to correct this fast? my idle is right around 600rpm i believe. do i need to lower the idle speed? if so, how do i do this? isn't it just a bolt or nut i twist or something i heard....?

thanks guys.

 

you can ty adjusting the throttle cable for a lower idle, but it shouldnt be that low, ideally should be about 800 RPMs. Mine is at about 1100 RPMs, but I like it right there for some reason IDK y. Also, what kind of car is this>? What motor? Setup?

 

well i just figured out how to adjust my idle. now it's right around 500rpm. hopefully this will work. wish me luck guys, i'm headed back over before they close.

 

change the oil then get it tested right away....it will pass

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 89hbcivicguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">change the oil then get it tested right away....it will pass</TD></TR></TABLE>

really? i heard it's a good idea to fill up on premium gas as well prior to the testing.

 

UPDATE: changed the oil (castrol gtx), used stop smoke/stop leak from Bardahl (sp?), and filled up on premium gas.

same thing. i'm good in all areas except for idle emissions for Hydro Carbons. any suggestions now? currently my idle is set at around 600-650.

and i found something (an additive) that says i'll pass emissions GUARANTEED. anybody know how legit these types of things are? sounds too good to be true from the description on the box. the thing only costs like 8 bucks or something.

help me out guys.

-CODY

 

From my experience here in California, I change an O2 sensor and a Cat Converter about every 4 years to get my car to pass. Yes they do go bad that often.

 

I'm no expert in smog, but I'll help out my brah. HC is basically unburnt fuel. First thing I'd do is replace the simple ignition components. Distributor cap/rotor, wires, and new plugs. Can you remember the last time you replaced the o2 sensor? Might want to replace that too, if it gets too slow the car won't run as clean.

Use premium gas. Leave your idle at stock specs (see side note). If you can, check if your ignition timing is correct (not sure if this would help for HC). I imagine if your air filter is super dirty it would limit the air coming in, thus making your car run a little richer. But it isn't that old/dirty right?

Side Note-
The lowest mark on the tach is just below 500rpm, it doesn't go all the way to zero. 500rpm your car would barely be idling (if at all), and shaking like ****. Look at the mid points between 2k and 3k etc. and you'll see a thick mark, which is the 500rpm point. That's the one that's just above the most bottom part of our tach, so if you were idling at 500rpm, the needle would be practically at the bottom.

Let me know what happens, and I better see that promised guinness

 

post a pic of your test results

zepplin: catalytic converters are suppose to last forever, what kills it, are misfires and just raw fuel...so you dont have to replace your cat. every four years like ya do, just find out what is causing your catalytic conv. to go bad

 

Cat's don't last forever. The expensive ones will last for maybe 6-8 years like the stock one. Aftermarket Cat's ($75-$125 range) go bad before 5 years are up Some go bad in a few years.. The expensive aftermarket ones have more catylist and will last longer but they can be $300 or more.

 

UPDATE: I'm thinking about just saying "**** it" (out loud), and buying a new o2 sensor, and doing a basic tune up (plugs/wires/cap/rotor/nawzzz) lol

Probably also look into a new cat, as i've had my current cat since i bought the car 4 years ago. Anybody have suggestions for a performance cat? if i'm going to replace it, i might as well go with a performance cat...but how safe are they on emmissions???

ps- this is ******* ghey.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by y-49CRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

really? i heard it's a good idea to fill up on premium gas as well prior to the testing. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Nope, you want the lowest octane your car will take and not ping. Lower octane is easy to combust.

You could go to home depot, and poor denatured alcohol in the tank, I guarantee you will pass and you will actually clean your injector and gas lines out at the same time.

 

**** that if you want to pass smog you go buy a shitty b&M fuel pressure regulator for 30 dollars the gauge would be a good idea also ... crank the fuel pressure down as far as you can and the car still idle/run at 2500 you can prolly get it to around 18 or 20 and then she will smog... i have seen the dirtest b16 swaps pass with this

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2kTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">**** that if you want to pass smog you go buy a shitty b&M fuel pressure regulator for 30 dollars the gauge would be a good idea also ... crank the fuel pressure down as far as you can and the car still idle/run at 2500 you can prolly get it to around 18 or 20 and then she will smog... i have seen the dirtest b16 swaps pass with this</TD></TR></TABLE>

Starving your engine of fuel, thats not good. Plus the gauge runs you $30 and the regulator will run you around $30.

Just go buy denatured alcohol.

 

blah ask him how much they are making him pay each smog test why not just lower the fuel pressure and get it done with , you don't have to drive the car around like that, just park behind the shop set her up and then babie it in, its a sure fire way to pass why mess around with shitty additives? its like 60 bucks a pop for smog

 

its really not that hard to do. replace o2, cat, use stock ECU(i forgot and failed for HC). make sure no holes in exhaust. use lowest octane gas you can without detonating. 89 is good. and buddy, your car should be idleing about 750 at the lowest. i find that 1k is a much better idle and makes it easier in stop and go traffic

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2kTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> why mess around with shitty additives? its like 60 bucks a pop for smog
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Who said anything about shitty additives. I recommended denatured alcohol, if you knew anything about the product then you would know how good it works.

Look at any fuel injector cleaner, first ingredient is alcohol.

So lets see, spend 60 bucks to starve your engine of fuel, risk something happening to it ( sure you can baby the car but over here, they put it on a dyno and beat the **** out of it )

Or buy a can of denatured alcohol for 3 bucks and run it in your tank, it will burn super clean, plus you clean out your injectors at the same time.

 

as for denatured alcohol....what exactly do i buy? will i be able to ask for it at home depot and they'll know what i'm talking about? and do i put it in a full tank of gas, or an almost empty tank of gas and then fill up?

...so i guess i should run the lowest octane gas huh? hmmm....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Who said anything about shitty additives. I recommended denatured alcohol, if you knew anything about the product then you would know how good it works.

Look at any fuel injector cleaner, first ingredient is alcohol.

So lets see, spend 60 bucks to starve your engine of fuel, risk something happening to it ( sure you can baby the car but over here, they put it on a dyno and beat the **** out of it )

Or buy a can of denatured alcohol for 3 bucks and run it in your tank, it will burn super clean, plus you clean out your injectors at the same time.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by y-49CRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">as for denatured alcohol....what exactly do i buy? will i be able to ask for it at home depot and they'll know what i'm talking about? and do i put it in a full tank of gas, or an almost empty tank of gas and then fill up?

...so i guess i should run the lowest octane gas huh? hmmm.... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Run the lowest octane you can. And the denatured alcohol is by the paint thinners, Here is what it looks like





There is a certain way to run this. I also suggest changing your oil before you go

But add a quart ( 1 can of this is a quart )of this denatured alcohol to every 1/4 tank of gas. Drive around first, get the car super hot, then park around the corner and add the denatured alcohol.

After the test, you need to go right to a gas station and fill your car up all the way. This will dilute the denature alcohol. Denatured alcohol works so good, if you leave it just sitting in your gas tank by its self, it can eat away at rubber lines.

My buddy has an 8 second camaro with no cats, and we get it to pass and one of the ways is running it on alcohol.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Run the lowest octane you can. And the denatured alcohol is by the paint thinners, Here is what it looks like

There is a certain way to run this. I also suggest changing your oil before you go

But add a quart ( 1 can of this is a quart )of this denatured alcohol to every 1/4 tank of gas. Drive around first, get the car super hot, then park around the corner and add the denatured alcohol.

After the test, you need to go right to a gas station and fill your car up all the way. This will dilute the denature alcohol. Denatured alcohol works so good, if you leave it just sitting in your gas tank by its self, it can eat away at rubber lines.

My buddy has an 8 second camaro with no cats, and we get it to pass and one of the ways is running it on alcohol.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks for the awesome info! so i'm actually supposed to do the test with only denatured alcohol in my tank??? and then after the DEQ, fill up the gas tank??? that part confuses me...

 

Just like to add that I have passed with flying colors using denatured alcohol. I used 1 quart per roughly 1/4 tank of gas as well.

 

No, you want the alcohol to mix with your regular gasoline.

He's telling you to fill up with gas because alcohol is corrosive to your car... like anything rubber.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by y-49CRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

thanks for the awesome info! so i'm actually supposed to do the test with only denatured alcohol in my tank??? and then after the DEQ, fill up the gas tank??? that part confuses me...</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tilt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No, you want the alcohol to mix with your regular gasoline.

He's telling you to fill up with gas because alcohol is corrosive to your car... like anything rubber.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

you are correct

Before you go keep this in mind, for every 1/4 tank of gas, add 1 quart of denatured alcohol.

 

cool. i'll try it today...wish me luck guys.