The story is I've been trying to get my ITR back on the road for a while after pulling the engine for a rebuild. I was tired of it burning oil. It is planned to be shipped off to Importbuilders to have a basic rebuild done with a few small upgrades (arp rod bolts, etc) but after finding a good deal on an OEM shortblock from Len that I can pick up I'm thinking of just going that route. It will cost me about the same, but I'll have OEM quality and should be able to have the ITR up and running for Expo.

So right now I've got a perfectly good ITR shortblock boxed up and ready to ship for somebody that's willing and has time to give it a nice rehone and maybe some bearings (it does have 92k on it).

Should I sell it to get back some cash or will I want my numbers matching block since I plan on keeping the car forever? Can the block number even be traced to the car?

If I don't sell it I can always try to give rebuilding it myself a shot once I have time.

Any input would be nice. Thanks.

 

I say if your mechanically inclined... Keep it. Have someone else do the machine work for you and do the rebuild yourself. I've rebuilt many motors before and it's not as bad as most people think. Give it a shot.

 

I don't know if it can be traced back, but seeing how that's the heart of the car... I would keep it and set it up for future use if nessary.

 

Sell that bitch. I sold my old block for 749.99 + some walmart coupons to a fellow Honda-techer and friend. It need some work from all the NOSSSSSSS....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 01PY0559 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I say if your mechanically inclined... Keep it. Have someone else do the machine work for you and do the rebuild yourself. I've rebuilt many motors before and it's not as bad as most people think. Give it a shot.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've got all of the tools to do it. Micrometers, ridge reamer, dial calipers, rod bolt torque gauge, etc but I've always been worried about the quality of the measuring tools I have. They weren't very expensive and when I see people using $700 rod bolt gauges I sometimes doubt my $60 piece. That's the main reason I scraped the orignal build.

Guess I can use the spare block to test out my tool accuracy

 

I'm 95% sure the block number can be traced back to the VIN from reading here on H-T.

I'm the same way; I want to keep it numbers matching as I plan on keeping the car for many years. Since you were going to spend about the same amount of money anyway, I'd keep the original block and rebuild it to OEM specs (Acura oversize pistons if needed, etc.) and know that you've got a parts matching R.

Damn you drive that car! I'm at 36,3XX on my '00.

 

Bah, matching numbers. If you plan on keeping it forever, then who else is going to care.

 

When I decided to go 2.0L in my ITR I resleeved my OEM block so all of the numbers would match. I'm not planning on selling the car anytime soon but I think it will help to have the original block/head/tranny when selling the car even though the internals are not original. I guess I got this from my dad with all of his muscle car toys.

 

the fact that you are even considering the "numbers matching" factor tells me you are a discriminating owner who appreciates the value potential of the R in coming years. i would say give your original block a second chance and a few more miles, but in the meantime save a little penny here and there for a "planned' brand-new replacement. this way, you can one day save your original block and have a new one for daily use, or as they say, have your cake and eat it too

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 330R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm 95% sure the block number can be traced back to the VIN from reading here on H-T.

I'm the same way; I want to keep it numbers matching as I plan on keeping the car for many years. Since you were going to spend about the same amount of money anyway, I'd keep the original block and rebuild it to OEM specs (Acura oversize pistons if needed, etc.) and know that you've got a parts matching R.

Damn you drive that car! I'm at 36,3XX on my '00. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Sad part is the car hasn't been driven for over a year lol.

I put about 800mi a week on whatever car I'm driving

 

you gotta do what you gotta do. I traded my orig block that was sleeved and needed some work to get done for another fully built sleeved ITR block to get done quicker.
It sucked the vins didnt match, but yea well life goes on.