I have had it in stock form for awhile, and now it's time to decide.

My Dad and I were talking it over, and he suggested just getting a used RSX (probably won't help cop out for the Type-S though ) and trading in the Teg. Well f**k that I said, I love my Teg. All she needs a good once over.

So I think I'm just gonna work up the Teg instead.

I was planning on a JDM Front (H.I.D.), ViS Carbon Hood and Spoon Replica ITR Carbon Lip, CW or PY Paint, 2001 body pieces (Rear Bumper and Tails), ITR Wing and OEM Optional kit and a good security system and no "Integra Type-R" stickers .

The big expenses will be under the hood. I was planning to switch over to a B18C5(There's a shop around me that does really quality work ) and adding on a Stage 1 RevHard kit (Keep it about 6-7 PSI, don't have quite enough to lower the compression and other block work, just gotta keep stock internals for now). Los Angeles isn't to far away, so there are plenty of good Hondata tuning places around.

I have no clue on a good brake system, please inform me. How's the AEM Big Brake kit? Suspension wise, I was thinking something from Tockico along with all the other sways and struts. Interior wise, a buddy of mine just wrecked his 2001 ITR and is willing to give me everything inside for $1K. <- Good deal or not? I'm planning to invest a good $11-$15 into it. I know with this price I could buy an "R", but I like projects and I think I could make my RS something better. Thanks guys!

EDIT: Chassis has roughly 89k Miles on it.

 

sounds like a 20k job if not more....

 

$15k at LEAST if you do everything yourself, but i can't help to think how much fun it would be

 

your basically doing everything all of us want to do. my advice- dont boost a type R motor man. if your gonna boost dont spend the money on a type R motor. build your existing RS motor and boost the **** out of that... youll have enough money to build it to handle insane amounts of boost. get yourself a sweet clutch and ur the manb- trust me. dont buy an ITR motor just to boost it man, and if u want vtec- go lsvtec then boost it.

 

Like tegsallgood said above, just build your current motor instead of swapping it out for an ITR motor.

 

So, the B18B is a better motor for boost? I think I heard that somewhere now that you mention it. The only thing is, my motor has high miles, but if I don't get the B18C5, I guess I could spend the rest to rebuild the motor internals better for boosting.

Yah, I know I'm pretty much doing every Teg owners dream, but I think the time has come. I haven't done a single thing to it, and now it's time to splurge .

 

With Type R's compression ratio it is harder to tune than the B18B motor, just like others say use all the good stuff to build it well and it will handle insane amount of power (300hp easily).

Regarding to your brakes, for all the effort you put in AEM is a joke and waste of $. Go for fastbrake.com big brake kit with Wilwood caliper or like others here have done, use Accord V6, legend, or NSX caliper (mill off 2-3mm on the mounting surface) with redrilled 11"+ rotor and you can run godlike stopping power. Stop on a dime with 8 cents left.

I am sure you already figure out that Type R rear sway bar and BSQ kit is the best bang for the buck, and probably should be the first thing you do.

 

for sure man- your car will be a beast. theres no reason in buying a great all motor high compression motor only to lower the compression ratio- just makes no sense. and with boost, who needs vtec. i wish i would have built and boosted my ls instead of going LSvtec. and every chance i get to tell someone not to make the same mistake, i do it. (not that its a bad motor, its just that horsepower/dollar ratio would have been rediculously better had i gone boost.) good luck man and im looking forward to seeing the 'beast' come together, PM AIM or email me with any questions you've got and i'd be glad to help!

 

Thanks a lot guys. My motor is getting high miles (nearing that 100k mark, will that be a problem?), so should I use some of the money in the pot to build the internals? I like that line "stop on a dime with 8 cents left" haha, that killed me.

Great, if I keep the B18B, that means more $$$ for other stuff such as nice Bride Brix's or Recaro Speed's.

Once I get started, I'll take pics every step of the way. Thanks for the help!

 

There are people that boost with more miles than that. If you have good compression then boost that ****.
The good thing about B18B longblock is it's cheap unlike Type R motors.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Shin-tegra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks a lot guys. My motor is getting high miles (nearing that 100k mark, will that be a problem?), so should I use some of the money in the pot to build the internals? I like that line "stop on a dime with 8 cents left" haha, that killed me.

Great, if I keep the B18B, that means more $$$ for other stuff such as nice Bride Brix's or Recaro Speed's.

Once I get started, I'll take pics every step of the way. Thanks for the help!</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you feel that your motor is not gonna be up to par at 100k+ miles, just redo some of the internals and you should be golden.

For me personally, if you're gonna mod your teg, there's no point spending upwards of $15k for it to be potentially stolen. You can successfully boost your b18b, and redo the body the way you want it for about $10k. I'd keep it FBP too to save $$. The last thing you want to do is just draw attention to thieves for your ride to be stolen, because once it is, insurance is only going to cover the kbb value of the car, not with all the mods you hooked it up with.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by daLixz25 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If you feel that your motor is not gonna be up to par at 100k+ miles, just redo some of the internals and you should be golden.

For me personally, if you're gonna mod your teg, there's no point spending upwards of $15k for it to be potentially stolen. You can successfully boost your b18b, and redo the body the way you want it for about $10k. I'd keep it FBP too to save $$. The last thing you want to do is just draw attention to thieves for your ride to be stolen, because once it is, insurance is only going to cover the kbb value of the car, not with all the mods you hooked it up with.</TD></TR></TABLE>

if you let the thieves intimidate you, they win. yeah it sucks, but invest in a good security system and a lojack. club it even, kill switches everything.... im cementing a hook into my parking space and padlocking the bitch to my towhook with chains.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by daLixz25 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you feel that your motor is not gonna be up to par at 100k+ miles, just redo some of the internals and you should be golden.

For me personally, if you're gonna mod your teg, there's no point spending upwards of $15k for it to be potentially stolen. You can successfully boost your b18b, and redo the body the way you want it for about $10k. I'd keep it FBP too to save $$. The last thing you want to do is just draw attention to thieves for your ride to be stolen, because once it is, insurance is only going to cover the kbb value of the car, not with all the mods you hooked it up with.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I was thinking the same thing. He's gonna be turning his car into a huge "thief" magnet. You better have some good security. I don't want to see you posting "My JDM front Integra got jacked" 6 months from now.

 

Yah, I hear ya guys on the security. The kill switches and all of that are a must I agree.

I was looking at the Clifford Matrix system. Anyone have any experiences with it? Haha, I like that tow hook idea.

 

wilwood gets the from me with brakes...

 

If your going the boost way, buy yourself a B20B and boost it. Already low compression, and it drops right in. The TQ gains would be orgasmic

 

The B20B is the CR-V engine correct? It's not overly heavy like the H series is it? Thanks.

 

noooo the b20 B has even smaller sleeves then the b18's youd HAVE to sleeve it to handle upwards of 300 whp, and if ur gonna sleeve the block anyway, just bore your existing block to 2.0 and sleeve that too.

 

Well if he bores his existing block, then hes going to have to sleeve it, so I dont see why it wouldnt be cheaper to buy the B20 and sleeve it, and not have the cost of boring it. The B20 has lower compression anyways, so he wouldnt have to sleeve it in the first place.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CompanyFlow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well if he bores his existing block, then hes going to have to sleeve it, so I dont see why it wouldnt be cheaper to buy the B20 and sleeve it, and not have the cost of boring it. The B20 has lower compression anyways, so he wouldnt have to sleeve it in the first place.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes he would to handle high boost, because the reason to sleeve anyway is because the open deck design of the b series motors isnt stable, the cylinder walls walk, especially with a piston flying thru it a gillion times at 8 or 9 K. (on lower amounts of boost this isnt a problem, its perfectly stable enough on a 1.8 i mean. on a 2.0 its even less stable) plus the added pressure of boost, and high boost at that. eitherway youre going to have to send it away to have it sleeved which requires machining. i was just saying since he's got a block already- because i guarantee you can't find a b20 block for less then the cost of boring- to send it off and have it machined, sleeved, and built all at the same time.

 

I did not see this. But $1000 is good for an ITR interior. The JDM ITR recarros go for $1000 easy. So I would guess just the USDM front would be worth $500+

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tegsallgood &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your basically doing everything all of us want to do. my advice- dont boost a type R motor man. if your gonna boost dont spend the money on a type R motor. build your existing RS motor and boost the **** out of that... youll have enough money to build it to handle insane amounts of boost. get yourself a sweet clutch and ur the manb- trust me. dont buy an ITR motor just to boost it man, and if u want vtec- go lsvtec then boost it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly what I was going to say

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PandaBear &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">With Type R's compression ratio it is harder to tune than the B18B motor, just like others say use all the good stuff to build it well and it will handle insane amount of power (300hp easily).</TD></TR></TABLE>

300hp on a built ls? I don't think so. The stock ls block can handle 300hp. He'll easily be able to make more power than that if he builds it.

So yea boost that b18b. You'll also get something every other honda motor lacks, torque. Expect to easily make over 250 lbs/tq if your making 300whp.

 

You can find a B20 for the same price, if not less than an LS.How mouch would ti cost to have it sleeved, is it really going to be THAT much more?. His B20 wont be going to 8000 RPM, and if he gets it sleeved, he can run all the boost he wants.He can run more boost because hes going to have LOWER compression. If he doesnt get it sleeved, his 6-8 PSI will get him at least equal numbers, but more torque.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PandaBear &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Regarding to your brakes, for all the effort you put in AEM is a joke and waste of $. Go for fastbrake.com big brake kit with Wilwood caliper or like others here have done, use Accord V6, legend, or NSX caliper (mill off 2-3mm on the mounting surface) with redrilled 11"+ rotor and you can run godlike stopping power. Stop on a dime with 8 cents left.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

EXACTLY what I did to my GSR. Very good bang for the buck. The calipers a little heavy (Accord wagon) but with Porterfield R4S pads and the Fastbrakes 11" rear kit with ABS my car out brakes most cars on the road. My first set of pads lasted well over 40,000 miles. A friend of mine recently bought a very low mileage FD RX-7 and the brakes in that thing really feel like crap compared to my set
-Jup. Make sure you get some braided steel brake lines as well.

 

yes its good to have upgraded brakes, but thats not really a necessity.....the stock brake setup is more than sufficient for the hp that most people make.

The DC2 chassis is one of the sexiest chassis around, even today, and it looks just as modern as most of these newer cars. Since you have an RS, I would suggest going all motor and turning it inot a 12 second beast; no boost !