a lot of people are swapping a2 heads on their a3's, but i haven't read much about a k20a head going onto an a3. honestly, i don't think there'd be that much of a difference, unless i'm wrong...

but first of all, what is the difference between the k20a and the k20a2 heads? nothing?

 

err.. you get some power gains, and j00 get vtec y0!

but i onno bout the k20a head compared to the a2

 

eh ... k20a head = made for 11.5:1 compression ...

k20a2 head = made for 11.0:1 compression

don't do it ... if anything go k20a2 head.

 

I wonder how the engine would take it with a higher comp. ration. Gas wise.

I would probably stay with a k20a2 head, probably cheaper too.

 

The only diff. between the heads are the cams. The compression bump is from different pistons. Just get an A2 head and pick up some CTR cams. Ive never seen a k20a head sold without the bottom end.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by k20 jon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ive never seen a k20a head sold without the bottom end.</TD></TR></TABLE>

that's true...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aznboysrfr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">eh ... k20a head = made for 11.5:1 compression ...

k20a2 head = made for 11.0:1 compression

don't do it ... if anything go k20a2 head.</TD></TR></TABLE>

wait... so the different k20's are "made" for their varying compression? i don't get it... how are they "made" for different compression?

 

They arent "made" for different compression with the exception of the tune in the ECU and the larger camshafts make better use of the compression. That is all. None of that should matter as all good K20 users eventually go to a Kpro and upgraded cams

 

the type r head is not for the the a3..........the bottom end of the a3 cant hold up to the potential of the type r head. so,...in comparrison i think its like buying a 6speed and never using the 6th gear. whats the point? even with an a2 head.......i still wouldnt recommend reving to 7900rpm

 

i believe someone has already done an a2 head with k20a cams. i thought i saw this somewhere. i believe he was using the type s tranny as well. so in effect, if you use a k20a head, use the k20a2/ k20a tranny. transfer that power to the pavement.

 

i'm assuming it's safe to rev past 8000 with the a2 head swap and some interal work, such as forged pistons and such.

NA is better!

 

sillyboy said it perfectly.... the k20a3 does not have forged internals or oil squirters or a counterbalanced crankshaft... so think about reving an ls block to 9000 or whatever the redline is on the k20a .... and think about a rod going through the head and the hood...

and if you dont goto the redline with a head swap and a 5 speed you will not be in the powerband after shifts so you might just want to do a full swap..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 03civicep &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...so you might just want to do a full swap..</TD></TR></TABLE>

with the $6000 i have in my pocket right here?

really though. it makes a lot of sense to do a full swap. i mean, from an a3 to an a2, you get a lot more power40hp, plus a six speed.

so is the k20a swap a better bang for the buck than the k20a2 swap?

 

depends on your wants

k20a = na
k20a2 = either or..


if you plan on boosting go with the k20a2 .. but if you want to stick naturally aspirated i'd go with the k20a for its gearing and high compression..


and a k20a swap would be about 5 k and a k20a2 swap might run 2800$ if you find a good deal , not 6000$ !!!

but to do some killer research check out clubrsx.com or ephatch.com two really good websites to research k series motors.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 03civicep &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and a k20a swap would be about 5 k and a k20a2 swap might run 2800$ if you find a good deal , not 6000$ !!! </TD></TR></TABLE>

wow, i must suck at searching.

from my crappy knowledge, a k20a swap is like ~5800. but man, if an a2 swap is only 2800, i'll jump on that quick...

 

I think that the a3 is best used for FI, lower compression and a detuned vtec make it perfect to run some boost and a Hondata. If you really want some NA power I would swap the whole engine, the bottom end of the a3 is not gone to respond well to the higher rpms. On the brighter side maybe you can add a cylinder when the rod shoots through the block.