Hrm, Bquiet Extreme or Ultimate?
Basically the same question as topic, I am going to get one 50 sq ft pack of one of them for my coupe... The question is, which would you choose and why? I know the ultimate is apperantly better, but is it worth the price? Is it that big of a difference?
If it really matters, I am doing this to cut down on road noise and increase the density of the car for bass... I will use it to cover the doors, the panels behind the doors beside the rear seats, and the trunk from top to bottom.
Also, I was thinking of installing some closed cell eggcrate foam on the doors and the pannels beside the rear seats to cut down on noise.. How would you install/attach it? I have heard both good and bad things about its benefits.
Bquiet Extreme
$84.99 for 50 sq feet
Acoustic Loss Factor ASTM E756 @ 200 Hz:
0.16 @ +0C (+32F)
0.19 @ +10C (+50F)
0.29 @ +20C (+68F)
0.20 @ +30C (+86F)
0.14 @ +40C (+104F)
Temperature Range:
-55C to +110C (-67F to +230F)
Bquiet Ultimate
$129.99 for 50 sq feet
Acoustic Loss Factor ASTM E756 @ 200 Hz:
0.23 @ +0C (+32F)
0.26 @ +10C (+50F)
0.39 @ +20C (+68F)
0.32 @ +30C (+86F)
0.24 @ +40C (+104F)
Temperature Range:
-60C to +155C (-76F to +311)
If it really matters, I am doing this to cut down on road noise and increase the density of the car for bass... I will use it to cover the doors, the panels behind the doors beside the rear seats, and the trunk from top to bottom.
Also, I was thinking of installing some closed cell eggcrate foam on the doors and the pannels beside the rear seats to cut down on noise.. How would you install/attach it? I have heard both good and bad things about its benefits.
Bquiet Extreme
$84.99 for 50 sq feet
Acoustic Loss Factor ASTM E756 @ 200 Hz:
0.16 @ +0C (+32F)
0.19 @ +10C (+50F)
0.29 @ +20C (+68F)
0.20 @ +30C (+86F)
0.14 @ +40C (+104F)
Temperature Range:
-55C to +110C (-67F to +230F)
Bquiet Ultimate
$129.99 for 50 sq feet
Acoustic Loss Factor ASTM E756 @ 200 Hz:
0.23 @ +0C (+32F)
0.26 @ +10C (+50F)
0.39 @ +20C (+68F)
0.32 @ +30C (+86F)
0.24 @ +40C (+104F)
Temperature Range:
-60C to +155C (-76F to +311)
The main difference between the 2 is really the material composition.
Extreme is asphalt based; It'll melt much easier so don't apply to roof (or even multiple layers to the trunk-lid if you're in a HOT area), an odor may linger for a little while, it's more difficult to work with cuz it's sticky as hell and it'll gunk up your scissors so you have to clean them quite often. It also isn't quite as good in terms of performance/weight ratio. BUT - even after all of that, it's still acceptable.
Ultimate is Butyl based. The better mat products on the market (Dynamat Extreme, Secondskin Damplifier and Damplifier pro, RaaMmat BXT [most square feet for the money], Madmat) all use butyl. The Ultimate version is a replacement for the popular "Brown Bread" mat.
Also note that Ultimate is thicker by ratio 60/45 mils. So you're getting more in that 50 sq. ft - Consider that.
There also exists Liquid deadeners which are generally slightly better for performance/weight, but mats tend to be a little more effective at lowering the resonant frequency ---> more of a 'thud' when you knock on panels / close doors.
Closed Cell Foam: You can install this using a spray adhesive from companies such as 3M or Camie or...whatever you can find really. Which foam are you planning on using? Ensolite or something from Mcmaster-Carr or... ?
This stuff can block sound basically...it's not a deadener, but it'll taper sound reflections inside the car, and it'll block some road noise. Generally people line the floors with a thin layer of it (1/8" to 1/4" thickness) and then if it's a competition vehicle, they may go all out and put thin layers in the doors, trunk, roof, and even make custom dash covers and stuff...Reflective surfaces = major enemy.
Be careful to leave room for your windows when doing the doors with this stuff...this is why people tend to use the flat-sheet closed-cell foam. Some people use open cell-foam in areas they don't have to worry about water.
If you're concerned about road-noise, a major area people often neglect is the wheel wells. Actually...wheel wells, then Under-carriage, then firewall. In this case a liquid deadener works wonders.
Hope that helped
Modified by archmage at 11:10 AM 4/5/2005
Extreme is asphalt based; It'll melt much easier so don't apply to roof (or even multiple layers to the trunk-lid if you're in a HOT area), an odor may linger for a little while, it's more difficult to work with cuz it's sticky as hell and it'll gunk up your scissors so you have to clean them quite often. It also isn't quite as good in terms of performance/weight ratio. BUT - even after all of that, it's still acceptable.
Ultimate is Butyl based. The better mat products on the market (Dynamat Extreme, Secondskin Damplifier and Damplifier pro, RaaMmat BXT [most square feet for the money], Madmat) all use butyl. The Ultimate version is a replacement for the popular "Brown Bread" mat.
Also note that Ultimate is thicker by ratio 60/45 mils. So you're getting more in that 50 sq. ft - Consider that.
There also exists Liquid deadeners which are generally slightly better for performance/weight, but mats tend to be a little more effective at lowering the resonant frequency ---> more of a 'thud' when you knock on panels / close doors.
Closed Cell Foam: You can install this using a spray adhesive from companies such as 3M or Camie or...whatever you can find really. Which foam are you planning on using? Ensolite or something from Mcmaster-Carr or... ?
This stuff can block sound basically...it's not a deadener, but it'll taper sound reflections inside the car, and it'll block some road noise. Generally people line the floors with a thin layer of it (1/8" to 1/4" thickness) and then if it's a competition vehicle, they may go all out and put thin layers in the doors, trunk, roof, and even make custom dash covers and stuff...Reflective surfaces = major enemy.
Be careful to leave room for your windows when doing the doors with this stuff...this is why people tend to use the flat-sheet closed-cell foam. Some people use open cell-foam in areas they don't have to worry about water.
If you're concerned about road-noise, a major area people often neglect is the wheel wells. Actually...wheel wells, then Under-carriage, then firewall. In this case a liquid deadener works wonders.
Hope that helped
Modified by archmage at 11:10 AM 4/5/2005
Might I add that comparing thicknesses of two different materials isn't a good idea. One type of material may be better at sound deading then the other so the extra thickness isn't needed. Asphault is a very good sound deadner. I know nothing about the products spoken about.
Comparing the two on how well each sound deadends is completely valid.
Comparing the two on how well each sound deadends is completely valid.
well ive got the numbers there, my real question will be then... In your opinions, hopefully those that have used them... Is the Ultimate worth the money comparing its effectiveness against the Extreme? Or would I be wasting my money on what will be an absolutely minimal not noticable difference? Yet again... doing doors, rear quarters, and trunk.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CooBlueDAB »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well ive got the numbers there, my real question will be then... In your opinions, hopefully those that have used them... Is the Ultimate worth the money comparing its effectiveness against the Extreme? Or would I be wasting my money on what will be an absolutely minimal not noticable difference? Yet again... doing doors, rear quarters, and trunk.</TD></TR></TABLE>I will have to agree with everything archmage has said
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CooBlueDAB »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so the ultimate is worth the price then huh?</TD></TR></TABLE>If used properly, yes, You get what you pay for.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If used properly, yes, You get what you pay for.
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thanks guys, then upon my vehicle's body work... (stupid woman backed into me, and I am not so sure for family reasons if I will have the car for good...) I will grab ultimate, and finish the work I started on my system. lol Kenwood Excelon... fickle in a civic, the volume increases like v-tec... really low in the beginning but towards the upper 3rd of its range... it opens up quick! lol.... with some luck... this will make that volume increase a little more fluid and increase bass response some a noticable amount.
Ive got enough, It is by no means the loudest from a sub standpoint, but the speakers get too loud for me, I have to turn the volume down 4-5 (out of 30 marks) just so no one turns it up all the way. Just a nice well rounded and sometimes boomy on the inside sound. Ive already deadened around the front door speakers, and the rear pannel so a lot of that is done. The rattles are pretty minimal now. However, I'd like to eliminate some road noise and improve my bass a noticeable amount. Be it small or large, as long as it is audible. I think sealing the trunk will do that. Overall, I just want the black hole for sound that is a honda civic to let the sound do its thing.
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