Alright this is the situation, let start off with the specs.

Car is a 96 ek

b18c block 81.5 bore
SRP 11:1 x 81.5mm Comp pistons Eagle H beam Rods
mirco polished crank, balanced, blueprinted

DH-Racing b18c head
Port/polished, milled .030
dual valvesprings n Tit retainers, oem valves?
Blox type B Cams, Skunk2 cam gears

Running on stock ECU for break in

Valves were adjusted at .007 intake and .009 exhaust (suggested by AN fr AN-R)
Cams were adjusted to intake +4 exhaust +4 for good idle timing, cant get good timing at 0,0

allright this is what happend

Got all my parts together and dropped its all off at the shop, took them a week to install all the above plus all bolt-ons.
took it home and broke it in got up to 1800 miles so far with regular driving reving below 4000 rpm, i took it over 4400 couple times when the vtec kicks in its really loud and doesnt take off. then i made my appointment for the Dyno, was made a week from now. so i drop by the shop to let the guy who worked on it/owner of shop know bout Dyno day, and he said have u beat on it yet? and i said no, too scurr'd, and he said lets go for a ride and he drove, he took it up to bout 7000revs and it pulled hard but on the way back and low rpm the car made a crazy noise and shut off, we pushed the car back to the shop and i took off the valve cover and pulled out the spark plugs and cylinder #3 was stuck and when we got it out we seen that it snapped a valve. so the next day he took the head off and i dropped by and took pics (will post later) one of the intake valve snapped at the retatiner side and dropped into the cylinder jamming itself into the piston after snapping two more times. luckly the cylinder walls are fine but now i need a new head and supertech valves.

Can any techs tell me what the hell went wrong? everyone is telling me different things....



Modified by B18BlackEK at 5:31 PM 4/2/2005

 

The reason you set the cams at +4 +4 was because of milling the .030" off of the cylinder head. Since the cam gears are .030" closer to the crank gears, it throws the timing belt out of sync. Advancing the gears fixes that relationship. That should not have been your problem.

However, when you mill .030" off the head, it also brings the valves .030" closer to the piston. Also SRP pistons are not known for having extra deep valve pockets either. The Blox cam has more lift than stock so this also brings the valves closer to the pistons. Your valve springs may be weak also. The combination of these factors at 7000+ rpm caused valve float, knocked the valve into the piston and caused it to break.

Who ever built this engine should have known what the piston to valve clearance was and warned you about this possibility.

The best way to fix this is to change to a piston like CP that cuts extra deep valve pockets. That should help some but you need about .050" clearance between the valve and piston measured in VTEC lift mode. You also need to test your valve springs to see if they have lost pressure. A new set of SuperTech valves, springs and retainers should be in your future plus the CP's. You need an engine builder that can figure out this combination.

One last thing. NEVER break in a motor without tuning it first. It does not have to be a high rpm tune but if you are running fat OR lean during the break-in, you can ruin your motor.

ALWAYS tune first is the best advice I can give anyone with a new motor and combination.

 

how do you check for clearances "in vtec mode" if im claying the pistons, how do i make the change over to vtec mode ( or high rpm mode ) if the engine isnt running /

thanks

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

One last thing. NEVER break in a motor without tuning it first. It does not have to be a high rpm tune but if you are running fat OR lean during the break-in, you can ruin your motor.

ALWAYS tune first is the best advice I can give anyone with a new motor and combination.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats sooo important i cant stress that enough

 

Well its my first time.

i tried to get it dyno'd right afta but the dyno said one week so one week it was.. now i dont even know bout gettin it <U>fixed</U> at least the cylinders are still good.

 

wouldnt all the intake valves hit if it was too close?

 

yea i understand, my firs engine build blew up on the dyno but that was because of the engine builder error good luck with everything