This is one for all the guys that have a accord and want to build F22B1 monster.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 243
Likes: 0
From: on the street, usa
This is one for all the guys that have a accord and want to build F22B1 turbo monster.
This is where it all began...I finally got an opportunity to go turbo in my accord. My money finally got right, and i spent the last few months putting my turbo kit together. I have had in the past 4 years a total of 4 motors, 3 different body kits, and i did a headlight conversion...
The First motor, I took out b/c it was the original motor that came with the accord and it had leaky rings (i pulled this one out with 208,000 miles on it and i spray nitrous on it the last 5,000 miles that i had it). I wound up selling that motor and believe it or not it still runs today. The second motor i swapped in i never got the ignition timing straight on it and i had pre-ignition, and spun 2 main bearings and and 2 rod bearings the motor started knocking and i had to pull it out. The third motor was a leaking P.O.S. I swapped it in, drove on it for like 6 months got tired of changing gaskets and putting oil in it so i got an opportunity to pull it out and sell it so i did. I did the swap for the guy and regardless of the condition of the motor he wanted it anyway, his exact words are " man i just want vtec."
Which brings me here the fourth motor that i just blew. I built this one from scratch i started out with a bear block and head. I was pressed for time so i couldnt have machine work done to the block, i just checked the cylinder walls put factory accord pistons back in it. the head on the other hand is a fully built head. It has Stainless valves, new guides, 3 angle valve job, and ported on the exhaust side for turbo. I put a new fac. cam and seals in it and put everything together. I got nology hot wires, Fields sfc vtec controller, and got the motor running. B/C the head got milled it was guessing the CR went from 8.8:1 to somewhere around 9:1 CR....IT RAN LIKE A CHAMP, so in the process of breaking in the motor, i started piecing together the turbo kit. Piece by piece i found parts bought them, sold some of them to get better parts, and got everything together. I got parts like HKS EVC III boost controller, AiResearch Garrett T3, Fmax manifold, a 29x7.5x2.75 FMIC, Fmax pipes with a hks B.O.V., tial 35mm wastegate, Mf2 aux. injector controller, denso 195 lph fuel pump, AEM fuel rail and Regulator. My goal was to daily drive in 6 lbs and race on 8 lbs.
I really didnt know about turbo so i did a lot of reading, downloading, and got my facts straight. My friend went off to 6 weeks training coarse in the military (he's the turbo honda expert around here) so i was on my own. I started putting everything on (not like NOS). I got everything installed, relocated my o2, put in my fuel pump and got everything else installed.
SORRY THIS IS LONG......
I had to drive it so i could auto- calibrate my boost controller, so i took it for a spin. the first run i made, the turbo was being regulated by the wastegate and it was boosting 9.83 psi. well, to auto calibrate the HKS EVC III, you have to run it in third gear @ 1000 rpms, then mash out until the HKS learns your boost curve. you have to do this 3 times. well i ran it 3 times in a high gear at low rpms and nothing. Well i went back home double checked my install, everything looked good, and went out for another run. Well i got pissed because the HKS wouldnt auto calibrate....so i said F@#k IT and mashed out 3 gears. well when i shifted into third gear, my A/f gauge started reading lean....so i backed off...rolled about 20 feet and the accord shut off....few minutes later got it cranked, drove home, and it started smoking and would idle right. The next day did a compression test, #1, #2, #3, all read low compression....BROKEN RING LANS....a vac. line for my 3 bar map that controller the mf2 aux injectors popped off....and i was running 9.83 psi on stock injectors.....
Well the cars been sitting there for 3 weeks....i could figure out what to do, build a turbo motor or lude swap...either way i have to build for turbo right....and everyones doing lude swaps....Which brings me here...
im going to document my motor build for turbo so everyone else out that wants to build a turbo SOHC accord motor, knows and can get info off this thread...
Cause it took me the better part of 3 weeks to get info from people and most arent really helpful at all...
this is where it begins....
No one makes forged pistons for a F22b1, us 5th gen. accord guys got skipped, they make ones for a h22a, f22a, f23, h23...no f22b1...there are some places that custom make them for 5th gen but they are expensive and take 4 weeks. the only ones that i found that stock them are RACEENG.com, i researched that company already...the pistons they carry for the accord are custom make by wiseco. they use the same forging process as they do on there own pistons. So you know that they are good. Its hard to get someone from raceeng to answer the phone but thats how you know that they are a good company. They are always busy. Keep trying they will answer. A tech from wiseco told me that they are a reputable company too.
I also did my research into the accord block. H22a blocks have some kinda composite metal sleeves, and if you want to run forged pistons for turbo or nos
you have to get the block resleeved w/ iron sleeves
. Thats expensive, its at least 200 bucks for the sleeves, 500 bucks for the pistons and 300-600 for the machine work. Well the F22b1 comes from the factory with cast iron sleeves, so you dont have to get the f22b1 block resleeved, you just get it bored 20 over, honed, and get the block check for balance. Thats anywhere from 200-300 bucks. 
So this total cost of building your bottomend if its a good block should be:
1. Forged 87.5mm pistons w/ rings $509.00 + whatever shipping
2. Machine work bore, hone, and balancing $300 worst case senerio.
3. Your time Free.
4. Im going to use my stock rods. I have heard that the stock crank and rods can
handle 400 hp. so im going to test that one out.
Im going to use my stock crank and rods, upgrading them is always an option.
I going with the raceeng 8.8:1 forged pistons made by wiseco, the measurement for that piston is 85.5mm which is 20 over.
i found a local machine shop that a mechanic recommended to me, to bore resleeve and hone, i got quoted a price of $280.00, but it isnt going to cost that much cause im just getting the block bored, honed and balanced.
Ill keep posting as everything goes along the way.....ill have exact prices, the process that im going through with this build...if you have any questions post to this thread...Later
You you have an accord and do a h22 swap...its going to cost about the same as going turbo in a f22b1 turbo. there are people selling parts cause they dont want turbo anymore or they are going with something different. I picked up about $5000
worth of parts in the last 2 or 3 months for less then a $1000.00.
Yes any turbo accord is high maintence, but if you can keep up with the maintanence of a car, you need to walk. maintanence on a turbo car is just a lil more then regular maintanence on a non turbo car.
TRUST ME THE ACCORD F22 BLOCK IS PERFECT FOR TURBO. Stock 8.8:1 CR.
Cast iron sleeved block. If you can be patient, you can pick up parts at real good deals. You can even boost on a stock motor, run 6 and 8 psi, get do the afc hack for fuel management, get the motor tuned by someone that knows what they are doing....(I LEARNED THE HARD WAY) and you can get 90% of your motor life if tuned without detonation in the cylinders.
Check out these site for support.
http://WWW.RACEENG.COM (Pistons for a F22B1)
http://WWW.http://www.2gnt.com....html (info on the AFC HACK)
http://www.sdsefi.com/injectors.htm (info in injectors)
http://hometown.aol.com/dvandrews/timing.htm ( info on ignition timing)
http://www.beesandgoats.com/bo....html (turbocharging info)
http://www.streetrodstuff.com/...2.php ( info on the basics of detonation)
http://www.ebay.com (lol this is where i got my boost controller, turbo and other misc. part. just becareful who you buy from, make sure that you read their negative feedbacks, and check out the items that these feedbacks belong to to see what they are)_
It took me a total of 3 weeks of constant, research to find most of this stuff, thats about 10 hours a day trying to find out everything that i can about turbo and everything else that goes with it.
Dont listen to people whenever they tell you to do a h22a swap, you get more gains going turbo and spend about the same money. People that recommend swaps are giving you an opinion, they dont state the pros and cons.
AGAIN IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS ABOUT THIS THREAD OF ARE INTERESTED IN THE INFO, POST. AND I WILL HELP WITH WHAT I CAN. BUT IN A NUTSHELL THIS IS ALL THE INFO THAT YOU MIGHT FIND ON THE NET. AND I LEARN ALL THIS THE HARD WAY.
Modified by projectxaccord at 6:42 PM 4/1/2005
Modified by projectxaccord at 7:11 PM 4/1/2005
Modified by projectxaccord at 7:17 PM 4/1/2005
The First motor, I took out b/c it was the original motor that came with the accord and it had leaky rings (i pulled this one out with 208,000 miles on it and i spray nitrous on it the last 5,000 miles that i had it). I wound up selling that motor and believe it or not it still runs today. The second motor i swapped in i never got the ignition timing straight on it and i had pre-ignition, and spun 2 main bearings and and 2 rod bearings the motor started knocking and i had to pull it out. The third motor was a leaking P.O.S. I swapped it in, drove on it for like 6 months got tired of changing gaskets and putting oil in it so i got an opportunity to pull it out and sell it so i did. I did the swap for the guy and regardless of the condition of the motor he wanted it anyway, his exact words are " man i just want vtec."
Which brings me here the fourth motor that i just blew. I built this one from scratch i started out with a bear block and head. I was pressed for time so i couldnt have machine work done to the block, i just checked the cylinder walls put factory accord pistons back in it. the head on the other hand is a fully built head. It has Stainless valves, new guides, 3 angle valve job, and ported on the exhaust side for turbo. I put a new fac. cam and seals in it and put everything together. I got nology hot wires, Fields sfc vtec controller, and got the motor running. B/C the head got milled it was guessing the CR went from 8.8:1 to somewhere around 9:1 CR....IT RAN LIKE A CHAMP, so in the process of breaking in the motor, i started piecing together the turbo kit. Piece by piece i found parts bought them, sold some of them to get better parts, and got everything together. I got parts like HKS EVC III boost controller, AiResearch Garrett T3, Fmax manifold, a 29x7.5x2.75 FMIC, Fmax pipes with a hks B.O.V., tial 35mm wastegate, Mf2 aux. injector controller, denso 195 lph fuel pump, AEM fuel rail and Regulator. My goal was to daily drive in 6 lbs and race on 8 lbs.
I really didnt know about turbo so i did a lot of reading, downloading, and got my facts straight. My friend went off to 6 weeks training coarse in the military (he's the turbo honda expert around here) so i was on my own. I started putting everything on (not like NOS). I got everything installed, relocated my o2, put in my fuel pump and got everything else installed.
SORRY THIS IS LONG......
I had to drive it so i could auto- calibrate my boost controller, so i took it for a spin. the first run i made, the turbo was being regulated by the wastegate and it was boosting 9.83 psi. well, to auto calibrate the HKS EVC III, you have to run it in third gear @ 1000 rpms, then mash out until the HKS learns your boost curve. you have to do this 3 times. well i ran it 3 times in a high gear at low rpms and nothing. Well i went back home double checked my install, everything looked good, and went out for another run. Well i got pissed because the HKS wouldnt auto calibrate....so i said F@#k IT and mashed out 3 gears. well when i shifted into third gear, my A/f gauge started reading lean....so i backed off...rolled about 20 feet and the accord shut off....few minutes later got it cranked, drove home, and it started smoking and would idle right. The next day did a compression test, #1, #2, #3, all read low compression....BROKEN RING LANS....a vac. line for my 3 bar map that controller the mf2 aux injectors popped off....and i was running 9.83 psi on stock injectors.....
Well the cars been sitting there for 3 weeks....i could figure out what to do, build a turbo motor or lude swap...either way i have to build for turbo right....and everyones doing lude swaps....Which brings me here...
im going to document my motor build for turbo so everyone else out that wants to build a turbo SOHC accord motor, knows and can get info off this thread...
Cause it took me the better part of 3 weeks to get info from people and most arent really helpful at all...
this is where it begins....
No one makes forged pistons for a F22b1, us 5th gen. accord guys got skipped, they make ones for a h22a, f22a, f23, h23...no f22b1...there are some places that custom make them for 5th gen but they are expensive and take 4 weeks. the only ones that i found that stock them are RACEENG.com, i researched that company already...the pistons they carry for the accord are custom make by wiseco. they use the same forging process as they do on there own pistons. So you know that they are good. Its hard to get someone from raceeng to answer the phone but thats how you know that they are a good company. They are always busy. Keep trying they will answer. A tech from wiseco told me that they are a reputable company too.
I also did my research into the accord block. H22a blocks have some kinda composite metal sleeves, and if you want to run forged pistons for turbo or nos
you have to get the block resleeved w/ iron sleeves
. Thats expensive, its at least 200 bucks for the sleeves, 500 bucks for the pistons and 300-600 for the machine work. Well the F22b1 comes from the factory with cast iron sleeves, so you dont have to get the f22b1 block resleeved, you just get it bored 20 over, honed, and get the block check for balance. Thats anywhere from 200-300 bucks. So this total cost of building your bottomend if its a good block should be:
1. Forged 87.5mm pistons w/ rings $509.00 + whatever shipping
2. Machine work bore, hone, and balancing $300 worst case senerio.
3. Your time Free.
4. Im going to use my stock rods. I have heard that the stock crank and rods can
handle 400 hp. so im going to test that one out.
Im going to use my stock crank and rods, upgrading them is always an option.
I going with the raceeng 8.8:1 forged pistons made by wiseco, the measurement for that piston is 85.5mm which is 20 over.
i found a local machine shop that a mechanic recommended to me, to bore resleeve and hone, i got quoted a price of $280.00, but it isnt going to cost that much cause im just getting the block bored, honed and balanced.
Ill keep posting as everything goes along the way.....ill have exact prices, the process that im going through with this build...if you have any questions post to this thread...Later
You you have an accord and do a h22 swap...its going to cost about the same as going turbo in a f22b1 turbo. there are people selling parts cause they dont want turbo anymore or they are going with something different. I picked up about $5000
worth of parts in the last 2 or 3 months for less then a $1000.00.
Yes any turbo accord is high maintence, but if you can keep up with the maintanence of a car, you need to walk. maintanence on a turbo car is just a lil more then regular maintanence on a non turbo car.
TRUST ME THE ACCORD F22 BLOCK IS PERFECT FOR TURBO. Stock 8.8:1 CR.
Cast iron sleeved block. If you can be patient, you can pick up parts at real good deals. You can even boost on a stock motor, run 6 and 8 psi, get do the afc hack for fuel management, get the motor tuned by someone that knows what they are doing....(I LEARNED THE HARD WAY) and you can get 90% of your motor life if tuned without detonation in the cylinders.
Check out these site for support.
http://WWW.RACEENG.COM (Pistons for a F22B1)
http://WWW.http://www.2gnt.com....html (info on the AFC HACK)
http://www.sdsefi.com/injectors.htm (info in injectors)
http://hometown.aol.com/dvandrews/timing.htm ( info on ignition timing)
http://www.beesandgoats.com/bo....html (turbocharging info)
http://www.streetrodstuff.com/...2.php ( info on the basics of detonation)
http://www.ebay.com (lol this is where i got my boost controller, turbo and other misc. part. just becareful who you buy from, make sure that you read their negative feedbacks, and check out the items that these feedbacks belong to to see what they are)_
It took me a total of 3 weeks of constant, research to find most of this stuff, thats about 10 hours a day trying to find out everything that i can about turbo and everything else that goes with it.
Dont listen to people whenever they tell you to do a h22a swap, you get more gains going turbo and spend about the same money. People that recommend swaps are giving you an opinion, they dont state the pros and cons.
AGAIN IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS ABOUT THIS THREAD OF ARE INTERESTED IN THE INFO, POST. AND I WILL HELP WITH WHAT I CAN. BUT IN A NUTSHELL THIS IS ALL THE INFO THAT YOU MIGHT FIND ON THE NET. AND I LEARN ALL THIS THE HARD WAY.
Modified by projectxaccord at 6:42 PM 4/1/2005
Modified by projectxaccord at 7:11 PM 4/1/2005
Modified by projectxaccord at 7:17 PM 4/1/2005
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 800
Likes: 1
From: Gainesville, FL
Re: This is one for all the guys that have a accord and want to build F22B1 turbo monster. (projectx
I had my custom 85.5 CP pistons made for $500 with pins and rings. Took about a month. Bore/hone was under $100. Didn't bother with balancing. I boost 10psi daily. Would go more, but due to some wrong measurements I was going off of (my bad yO!) when I had my pistons made, my c/r is close to 11:1 :-D - If you're going through the trouble of building the motor, get yourself some rods. I used Eagle H22's (hence custom pistons), but I may get some probe's to come down on the CR.
**** it, here's the whole expense report:
F22B2 Longblock - bought used with 60k on it $690
Autometer A/F ratio gauge 50
Eagle H22 rods 310
Acid Bath (to clean block) 30
Drag gen IV turbo manifold 300
Helm's Accord manual 70
Custom CP Pistons 500
Bore and Hone block 65
ACL Bearings 105
ARP H23 Head Studs 116
EFI 101 class 350
Action 1MS Clutch 320
B&M Fuel Pressure Regulator 70
Fuel Pressure Gauge 45
Zeitronx Wideband O2 290
Willem EEPROM Burner 45
Autometer Oil pressure gauge 54
Autometer Boost gauge 55
Energy Suspension motor mount inserts 17
Firewall Oil Supply Distribution Line Kit 25
Remanufactured flywheel 45
Intercooler + shipping 280
Used T3/T04E + shipping 280
Intercooler piping 100
UberData / Crome / P05 ECU Free
Various silicone connecters 100
Various AN Fittings 50
K&N Filter 40
Precision 580cc Injectors (used) 225
KTeller 2.5 Exhaust 223
Forbidden Motorsports Shortshifter 125
Various Gaskets for engine 150
Tial Wastegate 200
Tial Blow off Valve 200
McMaster Vacuum Manifold 30
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Running Total: $5555
**** it, here's the whole expense report:
F22B2 Longblock - bought used with 60k on it $690
Autometer A/F ratio gauge 50
Eagle H22 rods 310
Acid Bath (to clean block) 30
Drag gen IV turbo manifold 300
Helm's Accord manual 70
Custom CP Pistons 500
Bore and Hone block 65
ACL Bearings 105
ARP H23 Head Studs 116
EFI 101 class 350
Action 1MS Clutch 320
B&M Fuel Pressure Regulator 70
Fuel Pressure Gauge 45
Zeitronx Wideband O2 290
Willem EEPROM Burner 45
Autometer Oil pressure gauge 54
Autometer Boost gauge 55
Energy Suspension motor mount inserts 17
Firewall Oil Supply Distribution Line Kit 25
Remanufactured flywheel 45
Intercooler + shipping 280
Used T3/T04E + shipping 280
Intercooler piping 100
UberData / Crome / P05 ECU Free
Various silicone connecters 100
Various AN Fittings 50
K&N Filter 40
Precision 580cc Injectors (used) 225
KTeller 2.5 Exhaust 223
Forbidden Motorsports Shortshifter 125
Various Gaskets for engine 150
Tial Wastegate 200
Tial Blow off Valve 200
McMaster Vacuum Manifold 30
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Running Total: $5555
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 243
Likes: 0
From: on the street, usa
Re: This is one for all the guys that have a accord and want to build F22B1 turbo monster. (projectx
yeah i ws think about that but forged piston from what i hear are very durable, im not running high boost b/c its a daily driver...whenever the motor gets finished getting built it will be 8 and 10. i didnt go with rods because of that. if i were to run high boost like you are w/ a high CR i would get rods and the crank polished. but for now its not necessary. plus someone told me that the stock bottom end of the accord rods and crank can handle 400 hp so im going to see if it can handle 300 hp.
How did you get 11:1 CR with high boost to run??? i have a friend that tried that with wiseco h22 pistons in a f22b1 ( fully built motor). with a AEM stand alone, and wound up cracking the block with 10 lbs.
Im not far from you
this is what i spent in the last few months
fully built f22b1 head 1000.00
t3 turbo 250 shipped
fmax manifold 100.00
mf2 w/ aux 420 cc injector 200.00
stock block free
aem fuel rail w/ regulator 400.00
misc pipes turbo pipes 50.00
silicone connectors 40.00
intercooler FMIC 200.00 shipped
Denso 195 fuel pump 60.00
misc. hoses turbo oil in and out 50.00
T3 oil drain flange 10.00 shipped
External wastegate tial 35mm 150 shipped
hks bov with after intercooler pipe??? ( i owe a buddy of mine)
SFC Fields w/vtec adjustment 138.00 shipped
HKS EVC III jdm 209 shipped
misc fuel shoes for my aux injectors 20.00
Misc fitting for turbo 30.00
misc brackets turbo free.
oil gauge psi 30
water temp 50
voltage gauge 40
jdm fet turbo timer 35 shipped
2662.00 total not including pistons and built block.
theres a lot of things that i didnt need but got any way...like the sfc i bought it just for the vtec adjustment on it.
Modified by projectxaccord at 7:55 PM 4/1/2005
How did you get 11:1 CR with high boost to run??? i have a friend that tried that with wiseco h22 pistons in a f22b1 ( fully built motor). with a AEM stand alone, and wound up cracking the block with 10 lbs.
Im not far from you
this is what i spent in the last few months
fully built f22b1 head 1000.00
t3 turbo 250 shipped
fmax manifold 100.00
mf2 w/ aux 420 cc injector 200.00
stock block free
aem fuel rail w/ regulator 400.00
misc pipes turbo pipes 50.00
silicone connectors 40.00
intercooler FMIC 200.00 shipped
Denso 195 fuel pump 60.00
misc. hoses turbo oil in and out 50.00
T3 oil drain flange 10.00 shipped
External wastegate tial 35mm 150 shipped
hks bov with after intercooler pipe??? ( i owe a buddy of mine)
SFC Fields w/vtec adjustment 138.00 shipped
HKS EVC III jdm 209 shipped
misc fuel shoes for my aux injectors 20.00
Misc fitting for turbo 30.00
misc brackets turbo free.
oil gauge psi 30
water temp 50
voltage gauge 40
jdm fet turbo timer 35 shipped
2662.00 total not including pistons and built block.
theres a lot of things that i didnt need but got any way...like the sfc i bought it just for the vtec adjustment on it.
Modified by projectxaccord at 7:55 PM 4/1/2005
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 800
Likes: 1
From: Gainesville, FL
Re: This is one for all the guys that have a accord and want to build F22B1 turbo monster. (projectx
It's called heavily retarded ignition timing and dumping a little extra fuel at the top.
I don't beat on it too hard because of the high CR. When I get some time, I'm going to swap the rods out and bring me back down to 8 something CR and crank up the boost from there (after I get 3bar map and some sort of boost controller).
Because my timing is so retarded, I'm guessing I'm about 230hp or so (butt dyno). It's quick, but my goal was/is 300, so I'll get there one way or another eventually.
Personally, I wouldn't worry about daily driver or not, if it's tuned right, you're good to go. Mine's daily driven (when I'm not riding my bike or taking my girl's accord) and I wouldn't hesitate to drive across the country wiht it if I had to. I definetly trust it.
The car is definitely fun though
I don't beat on it too hard because of the high CR. When I get some time, I'm going to swap the rods out and bring me back down to 8 something CR and crank up the boost from there (after I get 3bar map and some sort of boost controller).
Because my timing is so retarded, I'm guessing I'm about 230hp or so (butt dyno). It's quick, but my goal was/is 300, so I'll get there one way or another eventually.
Personally, I wouldn't worry about daily driver or not, if it's tuned right, you're good to go. Mine's daily driven (when I'm not riding my bike or taking my girl's accord) and I wouldn't hesitate to drive across the country wiht it if I had to. I definetly trust it.
The car is definitely fun though
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 243
Likes: 0
From: on the street, usa
get one like i have you, they are on ebay all the time and there are some that are equal to it like the greddy. the HKS EVC III learns your turbos boost curve and optimizes for no boost spiking or boost creep.
what are you using now to control boost?? and how did you get that uberdata to work??
how does it perform for you??
what are you using now to control boost?? and how did you get that uberdata to work??
how does it perform for you??
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 800
Likes: 1
From: Gainesville, FL
Re: (projectxaccord)
I'm just using the wastegate spring for boost. Was running the smaller one, but went ahead and got a bigger one (10psi).
I'm running Crome right now. Works great. Just chipped a p05 ecu (and converted it to a P06) - you'd need a p28 or the like if you're going to want vtec. I do have some intermittent issues with low idle, but it's never stalled on me. It runs like stock when it's idling right
.
I'll probably either make my own boost controller or buy one of those manual ones for $50 or so.
I don't feel like working on it right now though, I'm just enjoying it. Have a lot of other expenses at the moment too, but when it comes down to it, I'll probably send my other head off to get cleaned up a bit, buy the new rods/map sensor and do it all at once.
Thanks for the heads up on the 3bar.
I'm running Crome right now. Works great. Just chipped a p05 ecu (and converted it to a P06) - you'd need a p28 or the like if you're going to want vtec. I do have some intermittent issues with low idle, but it's never stalled on me. It runs like stock when it's idling right
.I'll probably either make my own boost controller or buy one of those manual ones for $50 or so.
I don't feel like working on it right now though, I'm just enjoying it. Have a lot of other expenses at the moment too, but when it comes down to it, I'll probably send my other head off to get cleaned up a bit, buy the new rods/map sensor and do it all at once.
Thanks for the heads up on the 3bar.
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Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 800
Likes: 1
From: Gainesville, FL
Re: (projectxaccord)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by projectxaccord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can u give me the run through on how to do uber, was it hard, how do u make adjustments??</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's going to require some more research on your part, but uberdata/crome/hondata all work the same way by using an existing OBD1 ECU and adding some more functionality such as allowing you to change igntion/fuel tables (along with many other options). You'll need to have a supported ECU chipped. Pretty easy and cheap if you've got solder/desolder skills - or $50 from many people on the board.
If you've got a 96+ honda, you'll need a conversion harness too (around $75)
You'll also need a wideband o2 sensor to monitor your air fuel ratios. (around $300)
You'll need a EPROM burner ($50 ebay) to burn your chips and optionally an EPROM emulator (around $200) to make realtime changes (haven't used this feature yet as I don't have one).
If you want to know more, check out pgmfi.org forums. I think both crome and uberdata are on there. the hondata site also has a lot of useful info.
That's going to require some more research on your part, but uberdata/crome/hondata all work the same way by using an existing OBD1 ECU and adding some more functionality such as allowing you to change igntion/fuel tables (along with many other options). You'll need to have a supported ECU chipped. Pretty easy and cheap if you've got solder/desolder skills - or $50 from many people on the board.
If you've got a 96+ honda, you'll need a conversion harness too (around $75)
You'll also need a wideband o2 sensor to monitor your air fuel ratios. (around $300)
You'll need a EPROM burner ($50 ebay) to burn your chips and optionally an EPROM emulator (around $200) to make realtime changes (haven't used this feature yet as I don't have one).
If you want to know more, check out pgmfi.org forums. I think both crome and uberdata are on there. the hondata site also has a lot of useful info.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 243
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From: on the street, usa
update
i have been talking with a lot of people of other honda forums and they said that the stock accord internals can handle up to 10 psi or more, with grass roots engine management
i even found a guy that will do the work to the ecu for $65 thats with your first eprom chip with a base turbo map that can hold up to 10 psi easy..still havent pulled my motor yet so i dont exactly know the damage on the internals, but im still going to build the bottom end if there is a lot of damage present...ill keep everyone updatedd on the build..
i have been talking with a lot of people of other honda forums and they said that the stock accord internals can handle up to 10 psi or more, with grass roots engine management
i even found a guy that will do the work to the ecu for $65 thats with your first eprom chip with a base turbo map that can hold up to 10 psi easy..still havent pulled my motor yet so i dont exactly know the damage on the internals, but im still going to build the bottom end if there is a lot of damage present...ill keep everyone updatedd on the build..
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 243
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From: on the street, usa
welcome i get tired of people that are grumpy whenever you try to get info from them. this is the reason for this post, whenever i created this thread at another forum...you cant believe how many people replied...so i have learned that the stock accord motor doesnt have to be built, from my experience with racing the f22b1 (nitrious setup, and bolt ons) is a very strong motor....even thought its a SOHC platform....with the right fuel management you can boost up to 12 psi safely the stock internals...ill keep you all posted as i progress with this build....thanks for the compliments
later
later
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 243
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From: on the street, usa
i know a guy that sells turbo kits really cheap, and he's and awesome guy, i bought my turbo from him...and even gives warrenties if you are interested..i think that he was selling a basic kit with manifold, turbo, injectors, boost gauge, just about everything minus the turbo pipes...for $500.00 plus whatever shipping...if you are interested i can get you a quote??? let me know
Member
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 7,240
Likes: 1
From: Michigan State University, USA
Re: (projectxaccord)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by projectxaccord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i know a guy that sells turbo kits really cheap, and he's and awesome guy, i bought my turbo from him...and even gives warrenties if you are interested..i think that he was selling a basic kit with manifold, turbo, injectors, boost gauge, just about everything minus the turbo pipes...for $500.00 plus whatever shipping...if you are interested i can get you a quote??? let me know </TD></TR></TABLE>
i wish i could say i am, but ill be at college next year, and though its only an hours drive away, im not sure what will happen of my car...most likely ill still keep it, but its still up in the air
i wish i could say i am, but ill be at college next year, and though its only an hours drive away, im not sure what will happen of my car...most likely ill still keep it, but its still up in the air
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Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,011
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From: nor cal
the f22b1 motor is pretty stout. But with fuel mangement, a standalone is always number 1 to a long term reliable motor. no bandaids, no afcs, no piggy back crap.
When I had my car, it ran so smooth like it came from the factory. 14lbs
When I had my car, it ran so smooth like it came from the factory. 14lbs
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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 352
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From: Sydney, Australia
yeh the F22 is an excellent motor for boost. I'm a month shy of 1 year on 10psi (stock engine), using Uberdata as management. The engine loves it and hasnt even thought about complaining yet. Driven it on a few long trips as well, trust it completely...
even though its let me down twice so far. Once was a MAP sensor wire shorting somewhere (nice way to foul a set of plugs with 30 seconds of idling) and the second time was my manifold cracking at the flange (fixed under warranty). Those are the only issuse i've had since the install, i'm pertty happy with that.
A boosted accord makes a fantastic daily driver IMO. They look good, they are comfy and have enough room inside and the turbo makes it fun to drive
even though its let me down twice so far. Once was a MAP sensor wire shorting somewhere (nice way to foul a set of plugs with 30 seconds of idling) and the second time was my manifold cracking at the flange (fixed under warranty). Those are the only issuse i've had since the install, i'm pertty happy with that.
A boosted accord makes a fantastic daily driver IMO. They look good, they are comfy and have enough room inside and the turbo makes it fun to drive
