is it worth it?? im new to hondas so i dont even know what the stocker is capable of. see a lot of people using obx lsd's, installing a new d16 and si tranny just wondering if i should be upgradign the lsd while im at it.

thanks

 

bump

 

if your making a good amount of power id say its definitely worth it

 

how much can the stock Si lsd handle?? im hoping to make 300hp with a turbo

 

stock si doesnt have an lsd.

 

oic so thats why its a worthwhile upgrade, LOL

 

is the obx good quality? would the lsd for the si work for a zc tranny?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pSI civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is the obx good quality? would the lsd for the si work for a zc tranny?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The obx is ok. Do a search. There have been some posts about the OBX LSD. As far as it working in the zc, it will only work if you use Si unequal length axles. You cannot use the equal length integra axles and intermediate shaft.

 

alright well i had heard that its better then the pg lsd so i thought i would ask. is there an aftermarket lsd for the zc?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pSI civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">alright well i had heard that its better then the pg lsd so i thought i would ask. is there an aftermarket lsd for the zc?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The short answer is no there is not an off the shelf lsd avaliable for the zc. There have been ones made by cusco but they are not produced anymore.

 

alright then. thanks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The obx is ok. Do a search. There have been some posts about the OBX LSD</TD></TR></TABLE>

Was gonna say the same thing, although the last post I caught had this pic of an obx lsd.

 

damn thats bad looking.

i was thinking i would get the zc tranny so i could have equal length half shafts and the closer gears. would an si be better?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pSI civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">damn thats bad looking.

i was thinking i would get the zc tranny so i could have equal length half shafts and the closer gears. would an si be better?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The ZC box has closer gears, but unfortunately, it suffers from a USDM DX final ratio- 3.89 or something like that. The hot setup is a ZC box with a USDM Si final drive swapped in. You get a closer gearset and a low FD.

Regarding LSDs on low power cars...

I had a chance this past summer to spend about a month with a '94 Si hatch with a JDM LSD transmission. Yes, some JDM EG D series transmissions had LSDs from the factory. Anyway... it was a bone stock car, power wise, and I can tell you that even with 125 HP, it made a difference in a big way. Braking was much more stable, and tight turns (like in an autocross) were MUCH more controllable. In high speed sweepers in the 60- 80 MPH range, the car just felt more together and squared away. It also had unequal length axles. Comparing it to my '93 Si hatch and a '91 hatch with a ZC swap, I'd say the LSD/ unequal length axle combo is much more stable and predictable than the open diff/ equal length axle setup.

 

are lsd's bolt in affairs? simple to do if the tranny is out of the car??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93formula &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are lsd's bolt in affairs? simple to do if the tranny is out of the car??</TD></TR></TABLE>

Tranny work is easy if you're a patient, meticulous person. And yes, they're bolt in affairs. Follow your Helms manual for steps to dissecting the tranny, and remember on the ring gear bolts- right loosey, lefty tighty.

 

thanks for your tips, im swapping in a si tranny with the d16 turbo swap, so i was thinking of doing the work on the tranny while its out to make life easier.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93formula &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for your tips, im swapping in a si tranny with the d16 turbo swap, so i was thinking of doing the work on the tranny while its out to make life easier. </TD></TR></TABLE>

In all honesty, if you need to ask if they're bolt- in affairs, you probably shouldn't start rooting around inside your transmission. They're simple, yet VERY precise pieces of machinery, and it doesn't take much to bugger one up. I'd suggest taking the transmission and LSD unit to a shop and have them install it. It's an hours worth of work, and you'll have to pay about $65- $100 USD for this, but that's a small price to pay when you consider that if you try it yourself and screw it up, you'll not only have to do it over again, but may very well destroy the transmission.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Was gonna say the same thing, although the last post I caught had this pic of an obx lsd.



</TD></TR></TABLE>

If i remember correctly that is NOT an OBX lsd. It was posted before in an OBX lsd thread and the person who took that pic responded that it was some guys Kaaz lsd not an OBX.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Losrocket_ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> If i remember correctly that is NOT an OBX lsd. It was posted before in an OBX lsd thread and the person who took that pic responded that it was some guys Kaaz lsd not an OBX. </TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah that was my thread. its a KAAZ!! stop it with the misinformation people!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Loco Honkey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The ZC box has closer gears, but unfortunately, it suffers from a USDM DX final ratio- 3.89 or something like that. The hot setup is a ZC box with a USDM Si final drive swapped in. You get a closer gearset and a low FD.

Regarding LSDs on low power cars...

I had a chance this past summer to spend about a month with a '94 Si hatch with a JDM LSD transmission. Yes, some JDM EG D series transmissions had LSDs from the factory. Anyway... it was a bone stock car, power wise, and I can tell you that even with 125 HP, it made a difference in a big way. Braking was much more stable, and tight turns (like in an autocross) were MUCH more controllable. In high speed sweepers in the 60- 80 MPH range, the car just felt more together and squared away. It also had unequal length axles. Comparing it to my '93 Si hatch and a '91 hatch with a ZC swap, I'd say the LSD/ unequal length axle combo is much more stable and predictable than the open diff/ equal length axle setup. </TD></TR></TABLE>

btw this just answered a question ive wondered for months now!

 

that is not an OBX LSD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
stop spreading wrong information jonny five

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MtnCRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah that was my thread. its a KAAZ!! stop it with the misinformation people!! </TD></TR></TABLE>
own3d...i got beat to the punch

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Loco Honkey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

In all honesty, if you need to ask if they're bolt- in affairs, you probably shouldn't start rooting around inside your transmission. They're simple, yet VERY precise pieces of machinery, and it doesn't take much to bugger one up. I'd suggest taking the transmission and LSD unit to a shop and have them install it. It's an hours worth of work, and you'll have to pay about $65- $100 USD for this, but that's a small price to pay when you consider that if you try it yourself and screw it up, you'll not only have to do it over again, but may very well destroy the transmission. </TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks for the warning, but im hoping ill be able to install this myself. i just dont trust local shops to do anything, even change my oil.

i guess what im asking is, will i need to replace other parts while im in there, or is it just a bolt off-bolt on affair.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93formula &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just dont trust local shops to do anything, even change my oil. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't agree with this mentality at all. I'm sorry, but I highly doubt that your town is full of fuckups. You're not looking hard enough.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i guess what im asking is, will i need to replace other parts while im in there, or is it just a bolt off-bolt on affair.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Can you look at bearings and see if they're galled, spalled, or glazed? Can you look at synchros and tell if they're worn? How about shifter forks? Do you have the experience nessicary to inspect and replace them? Moreover, do you have the proper tools, such as snap ring pliers of the proper size (both inner and outer), various picks and awls, bearing pullers, micrometers and calipers, a press to press the new bearings on your LSD unit (you WILL have to do this), torque wrenches of various sizes and types (some torque specs are in n/m and require a pointer style torque wrench while others are in ft/lb and require a clicker style torque wrench), and a sanitary bench large enough to do it on? Can you deal with roll pins? Can you deal with precision toleranced components that only go together ONE way and must NOT be forced? Are you prepaired to frag your transmission and buy another one and try it again if you make one mistake?

I'm not discouraging you, but your holier than thou approach to your local shops that get PAID to do what they do (you don't get paid, much less stay in business unless you're competent), and your lack of knowledge regarding what's actually in there tells me that you're going to end up buying another transmission.

Like I said- about $100 to have it done right and they'll most likely let you watch if you ask nicely, or your time, plus downtime, plus whatever a new transmission will cost you.

I'm an ASE Master Technician. I've been doing this crap for almost ten years. I've worked in everything from Midas shops to BMW dealerships. I've paid my dues, I've seen almost everything, and I'm trying to pass on what I know so you don't have to make the mistakes I've made. Then again, maybe some people like to learn from mistakes. Which is fine by me. It's not my car. Good luck.