I know the GSR has a factory oil cooler behind the filter

my few Q are this, i am running boost ( high teens to low 20) should i be looking into an extra cooler with relocation unit for extra safety and less breakdown- i only ask because soon i may be auto-x and full tracking the car at places like ROAD Atlanta

so i could add on a B&M or Earls, greddy whatever

ALSO i have an aftermarket radiator, i was looking to a get a civic size fluidyne but i just thought of another idea..

My radiator is a generic one- made for both auto and manual, the bottom part of the rad, has an area to route tranny fluid in and out of in order to cool it.
for those of you who know what im talking about- should i route the oil thru the radiator for extra cooling using the aftermarket radiator- or go to the b&m style if its even needed.

 

The GSR does not come from the factory with an oil cooler. Your thinking of the Type-R.

Dont worry about an oil cooler until you know you actually need one. Do you have an oil temp gauge?

 

so why is then when i pulled my motor apart- and had to open the oil filter housing i got coolant everywhere?


i.e. when i removed the bolt that holds on the oil filter- coolant spewed everywhre.


Modified by 95gsrturbo at 12:32 AM 4/1/2005

 

94-95 tegs came w/ oil coolers...tech its not an oil cooler but a heater/cooler...when its cold the warm coolant heats the oil and vice versa....id just pick up a small tranny cooler and run a remote mt oi filter setup and spice into it to cool the oil

 

why not use tranny cooler built into the radiator?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drumking15 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">94-95 tegs came w/ oil coolers</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ive had a 95 GSR and a 00 GSR, neither had oil coolers under the oil filter. What gives?

 

my 94 motor has one.

 

My 95 GSR Came with an OEM oil cooler and its still their ....


water cooled OEM oil cooler on GSR!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95gsrturbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know the GSR has a factory oil cooler behind the filter

my few Q are this, i am running boost ( high teens to low 20) should i be looking into an extra cooler with relocation unit for extra safety and less breakdown- i only ask because soon i may be auto-x and full tracking the car at places like ROAD Atlanta
</TD></TR></TABLE>

You should, without a doubt, find the largest oil cooler you can fit if you are boosted and planning Auto -x.

Buy a perma-cool from summit.

 

Damn, this same thought was going through my head with my genaric radiator. Guess I'll have to throw on an external oil cooler.


BTW, 97GSR here, and I had an oil cooler on my block. I switched to a b16a and now I don't have one


Also, with the coolant temps right around what the oil temps are, would it even help cool the oil at all?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by m R g S r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Also, with the coolant temps right around what the oil temps are, would it even help cool the oil at all?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Optimal temps for reliability, longevity of the oil, and power are between 190-215.
You want to make sure your oil temps exceed 212F/ 100 C periodically if you have a really efficient setup to make sure any water condensation is boiled off in your engine.

Before I installed my permacool prm-201 My temps would shoot up to 245-255 quite quickly when boosting hard. Now they take a while to get up to 210F and then they maintain that except when boosting really hard it will shoot up to 235, but quickly fall back to 210 when driving in vac for a few minutes. Before my temps would stay at 250 even with a fluidyne radiator and oEM oil cooler!

Don't waste your time with an Oil thermostat. They are a hassle and have reliability problems. I have no problem warming up my oil. Just let your car sit idling for an extra 2 minutes(increased oil) and the heat from the engine bay will actually heat up your oil exchanger because you are not moving.

If it gets cold out you simply can partially cover the oil cooler with some cardboard...Florida here so I don't have to worry about that.

 

I stand corrected. I reviewed some pics from my 95 GSR motor and it DOES have an oil cooler. Im completely surprised I never noticed before. Howcome my 2000 GSR doesnt have one?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Howcome my 2000 GSR doesnt have one?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The bean-counters from Honda figured they could save a few bucks per car on the later tegs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slow poke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I have seen over 20 cooler setups and only 2 were able to get to the front of the cooler w/o taking off the bumper.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't need to remove my bumper. I agree with most of what you are saying, get a thermostat if you don't have easy access to your oil cooler or live in a really cold climate.

 

One came on my 95 gsr....and then i took it off and made a semi-custom setup to put it on my new ls/vtec

 

Organic oils live up to 230F, synthetics do well up to and exceeding 270F. So get yourself an oil temp gauge and find out if you even need additional oil cooling. BTW, mine has never exceeded 230F, even after a dozen runs at the strip.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boondock Saint &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Organic oils live up to 230F, synthetics do well up to and exceeding 270F. So get yourself an oil temp gauge and find out if you even need additional oil cooling. BTW, mine has never exceeded 230F, even after a dozen runs at the strip.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just because Synthetic oil can withstand temps as high as 270 doesn't mean you should have them that high. 190-215 is best.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dasher &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just because Synthetic oil can withstand temps as high as 270 doesn't mean you should have them that high. 190-215 is best. </TD></TR></TABLE>

best based on what data?

 

i have a fuel cooler from flexalight that can also be used as a oil cooler it has -6 in and outlets on it
for sale brand new never used

 

pm me if u want it k

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boondock Saint &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">best based on what data?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Its rather simple if you think about it.

--- The oil system is your primary coolant system. Coolant is secondary.

--- The hotter your oil temperatures are the hotter your engine will be.

--- Honda/Acura Engineers designed the tolerances of all the aluminum/steel parts in your engine to work in a certain temperature range because the warmer the components the more they expand and change the tolerances.

--- It has been shown the B series engines are very reliable stock so one can conclude that Honda engineers designed the tolerances appropriately for the oil temperature ranges a stock car exhibits.

--- I have noticed the healthy earlier B18c1 and B18C5 have oil temps ranging from 85C(185) to 95C(203) sometimes a little higher 103-105 C(221) when driven hard.
These engines come with oem oil coolers. Other B series engines without oil coolers run a little warmer 210-220F.

--- I want to match the oil temps found within the stock engine because most of my tolerances remain stock.

--- Occasionally it is wise to exceed the boiling point of water to make sure any condensation boils off --- 212 F / 100C .


One argument you may have is that on a built engine with aftermarket pistons the tolerances are looser than factory. The piston to wall ratio is indeed larger than stock but the forged pistons have a lower silicone content and thus will expand more to make up for this.

Synthetic oil may not burn at temperatures as high as 270F, but that does not mean that their lubrication capabilities hold as much value as the temperatures rise. You must have a careful balance between optimal viscosity and lubrication for the most power.

Keeping valve springs cool is also a very important fundamental in power production because maintaining seat pressures means more consistent power.

The circle track guys like to keep their engines at 220-230F for the best combination of power and reliability.

http://www.circletrack.com/tec....html

 

One more thing to add---

when you are doing a valve adjustment, the tolerances in the helms are assuming you have a stock engine running normal operating temperature.

If you turbocharge your car and raise your engine oil temperature significantly than you change the tolerances because the metal will expand greater.

Appropriate valve adjustment tolerances are important in making power and having a reliable engine.

 

so then do i run my valve lash tighter or looser?

sorry i don't mean to thread jack.

 

id like to know as well, id assume tighter but how much and is it safe to stray from #s we have

i would think for most purposes you arent in boost long enough to matter

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by evosol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so then do i run my valve lash tighter or looser?

sorry i don't mean to thread jack.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, the warmer your engine the more the metal will expand so I would run my tolerances slightly on the looser side of what is recommended by helms.

For a b18c---
0.007" or 0.19mm intake

0.008" or 0.21mm exhaust

Better yet why don't you just run an oil cooler and lower your temperatures instead.

Drawbacks of an oil cooler:

1) added complexity
2) cost
3) slightly Lower oil pressure

I will make up for my slightly lower oil pressure by plugging my oil squirters shortly.