picked these up last night...these are off of a gsxr 1000..the bike had 3+ miles on it..heres some pics


im gonna be building a itb setup using all of the knowledge available on h-t..

im gonna use this thread as another source of information...i will show step by step what i do from start to finish the best i can


Modified by Grip at 1:41 AM 4/6/2005


Modified by Grip at 1:23 AM 5/24/2005

 

Looks good man ..

I will also be doing the same very soon ... Need to get the motor togther and in the car first though

 

thanks man

few quick questions for anyone that can answer:

1. i want to remove the choke butterflies...what do i do about the holes in the side of the tb's after i remove the rotating pin that the choke butterflies screw to?

2. can anyone tell me or show me what kind of thhrottle cable bracket i have to make and what length?.(ive seen a picture of speedz in another thread but its hard to tell what length is used)

3. when spacing them to fit runners...how did you figure out how big of a spacer to make?

4. all of the vacumn lines that are T'd together can stay right? i just connect my MAP sensor to the same hose that the gsxr MAP is connected to and that takes care of that?

5. can i use my stock b16 injectors in the factory gsxr injector bung or does it require machining?

6. what fuel rail is required to run honda 240cc injectors in the gsxr injector location?

thats all of the questions i have as of now...im trying to get them as ready as possible until i can afford to purchase my itb runners and flange from another h-t member who makes cnc cut flanges and runners

im also trying to help this setup be easier for anyone looking to do the same thing so im gonna post all questions in this thread instead of pm people all the time to ask questions it will help future builders answer similar questions

 

they are not brand new, they have miles on them...

jp

nice find

good luck with the build.

 

yeah i know they arent "brand new"..but 3 miles isnt alot of use..i consider them "test run before sale"..to make sure they work

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Grip &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1. i want to remove the choke butterflies...what do i do about the holes in the side of the tb's after i remove the rotating pin that the choke butterflies screw to?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The quick and easy solution is to fill the holes with JB weld. You could have someone TIG them shut as well, but it's not really necessary.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Grip &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2. can anyone tell me or show me what kind of thhrottle cable bracket i have to make and what length?.(ive seen a picture of speedz in another thread but its hard to tell what length is used)</TD></TR></TABLE>

I usually use a stock D series throttle cable bracket from an EG. It requires some funky adjustment and is usually a little bit loose, but it works. You may need to get the rubber grommets off of two or three other throttle cables in order to give yourself a little room for error.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Grip &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">3. when spacing them to fit runners...how did you figure out how big of a spacer to make?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Get an intake manifold gasket and measure the length between two identical points on two adjacent runners. Measure the overall length of one of the center throttle bodies and subtract this number from the first number you found. Having a micrometer really helps when doing this. I'd go ahead and tell you what the measurements are, but I can't remember them.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Grip &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">4. all of the vacumn lines that are T'd together can stay right? i just connect my MAP sensor to the same hose that the gsxr MAP is connected to and that takes care of that?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Grip &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">5. can i use my stock b16 injectors in the factory gsxr injector bung or does it require machining?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You'll need a little bit of machining (or if you're comfortable enough with a drill, you can do it that way) to get them to fit correctly.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Grip &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">6. what fuel rail is required to run honda 240cc injectors in the gsxr injector location?</TD></TR></TABLE>

A stock Honda fuel rail will work, but you need to come up with some method of mounting it to the ITB's.

 

Hey Kendall, Mr ITB's. We still doing mine?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fat Bradstard &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey Kendall, Mr ITB's. We still doing mine? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes indeed. The throttle bodies are supposed to be here on Monday. Then they're going off to get bored while I round up the rest of the parts.

 

thanks Kendall

i dont have a micrometer...but i think i can figure the spacing out.

few more question's that arose today while removing the choke butterflies and rotating pin:

1. what do i do about the arms in between the throttlebodies that sync them together in the opening and closing action?..once they are spaced apart the throttle bodies will no longer open and close together.

2. as far as the TPS...what are my possibilities?..ive seen some setups that have a bracket and an OEM honda TPS rigged on there..is there any way to use the gsxr TPS or maybe mount a honda TPS elsewhere to keep them as clean looking as possible?

thanks again

 

ok through my research ive found that 3/8" X 3/8" steel extensions need to be welded to the throttle plate actuators to sync the throttle bodies up after they are spaced apart

i also found out that i can use my suzuki TPS but i need to mess with the settings in my ecu(which i dont know how to do or where to begin with this but this is somthing ill save for later)

i still need to find out what size spacer to make to space the tb's apart to match them up with the honda intake ports in the head.

im still undecided on what manifold to use...i was thinking the OBX manifold like Kendall or buying a custom cnc cut flange and runners prewelded from a h-t member that makes them for diy itb's.

does it make a huge diffrence if the injectors are in the stock suzuki location or the stock honda location?...these itbs will be going on a stock block b16 with jun 2 cams, mugen headgasket, header,test pipe, exhaust, chipped p28, and v-afc II...what should i do about the injector location?...i need to figure this out so i can make a final decision on what type of premanifold i want to use.

i like the ide of the injectors in the suzuki location because the farther back the injectors are the more the fuel can atomize before it gets ignited...but this will also take away from the cleanliness and simpleness of the diy setup in some ways like injector fitment and fuel rail mounting

on the otherhand..i can make it easy on myself and go with the obx manifold and use the stock honda injector locations and also use the stock honda fuel rail location..but this setup may cause problems with fuel.

im kinda leaning towards the more complicated setup just because of the whole diy thing..plus i like the idea of the injectors being placed in the suzuki locations..all of the priofessional ITB makers have them placed as far back as possible..it must be for a reason

any insight is appreciated

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Grip &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1. what do i do about the arms in between the throttlebodies that sync them together in the opening and closing action?..once they are spaced apart the throttle bodies will no longer open and close together.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Any professional welder should be able to TIG some extensions onto the linkages. If memory serves me correctly they'll need to be 3/8" by 3/8" and will fit perfect.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Grip &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2. as far as the TPS...what are my possibilities?..ive seen some setups that have a bracket and an OEM honda TPS rigged on there..is there any way to use the gsxr TPS or maybe mount a honda TPS elsewhere to keep them as clean looking as possible?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Use the Suzuki TPS, it's cleaner, simpler, and much more reliable.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kendall &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Use the Suzuki TPS, it's cleaner, simpler, and much more reliable.</TD></TR></TABLE>

what do i have to do to use the suzuki TPS? what needs to be dont to use it with my honda wiring harness and ecu?

also....injector placment is holding me back....i dunno if i should get an obx manifold and run the fuel rail and injectors in the stock location or run the injectors and fuel rail in the suzuki location?...which way is better for my b16 and why?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Grip &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what do i have to do to use the suzuki TPS? what needs to be dont to use it with my honda wiring harness and ecu?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The Suzuki TPS keeps you from having to ghetto-rig up some funky mounting arrangement for the stock sensor. Regarding proper installation, wire it in and that's it. The voltage will be a little off, but you can take care of that when you tune it. Here's how it goes:

Yellow Suzuki wire to red Honda wire.
Blue Suzuki wire to yellow honda wire.
Black Suzuki wire to green honda wire.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Grip &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also....injector placment is holding me back....i dunno if i should get an obx manifold and run the fuel rail and injectors in the stock location or run the injectors and fuel rail in the suzuki location?...which way is better for my b16 and why?</TD></TR></TABLE>

If possible, use the Suzuki location. It'll allow for additional fuel atomization, thus increasing power and efficiency.

 

allrighty...thanks Kendall...you've been alot of help in this project

im gonna be ordering my cnc flange and runners welded from H23vtecEG soon...also gonna start with the injector and fuel rail placement in the suzuki location... should be fun

 

well..today was a productive one..i tig'd the choke pin holes closed, opened the holes for the oem injectors in the suzuki location's(real easy to do), cut 3/8"x3/8" steel squares for the throttle actuators, and im ordering my premanifold from H23vtecEG(damn h-t ims are so slow in response)...ill tig the steel actuator extebders once i make sure that they will work with the space i need...no need to be doing things twice

 

because im using the stock suzuki location for the injectors what do i need to do about the brake booster?..should i get a vacumn log or somthing?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Grip &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">because im using the stock suzuki location for the injectors what do i need to do about the brake booster?..should i get a vacumn log or somthing?</TD></TR></TABLE>

When I did my cbr setup I just pulled 1 vacuum to the booster, I think a lot of people look to much into the brake booster vacuum.

 

if you just opened the holes and stick injectors in there youll be spraying right into the bottom of the tube instead into the back of valve....you need to angle them

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2k.civic.si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you just opened the holes and stick injectors in there youll be spraying right into the bottom of the tube instead into the back of valve....you need to angle them</TD></TR></TABLE>

They do have a pretty good angle to them, but I'm thinking that it's good for fuel atomization with the fuel having to hit the wall at least once.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kendall &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

They do have a pretty good angle to them, but I'm thinking that it's good for fuel atomization with the fuel having to hit the wall at least once.</TD></TR></TABLE>

no thats very bad...at low rpm there wont be enough air being pulled through and fuel will collect in there...talk to h23vtecEG about it he is building the runners for my 1300cc itbs from a hayabusa and said the injectors must be angled correctly

 

damn...there is no way to angle the injectors anymore using the suzuki location as they sit right now the injectors hit the suzuki fuel rail mounting point's...the way they are now the fan of the injector will just barely hit the opening of the throttle body...but im sure fuel will collect where the coupler joins the tb's to the runners at idle and low rpm.....any idea's?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2k.civic.si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no thats very bad...at low rpm there wont be enough air being pulled through and fuel will collect in there</TD></TR></TABLE>

I understand what you're trying to say, but experience is telling me to disagree to some level. I've put together quite a few ITB setups, several of which were running the injectors in the Suzuki locations. No idle problems at all, in fact I've had much worse idle problems with the injectors in the stock Honda locations. Plus usually the runners are angled up a bit, I don't see how fuel would collect.

 

ITB's!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kendall &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I understand what you're trying to say, but experience is telling me to disagree to some level. I've put together quite a few ITB setups, several of which were running the injectors in the Suzuki locations. No idle problems at all, in fact I've had much worse idle problems with the injectors in the stock Honda locations. Plus usually the runners are angled up a bit, I don't see how fuel would collect.</TD></TR></TABLE>

like i said before talk to h23vteceg about it...he explains it well...and can also tell you how to angle them properly so the spray is directed at the back of the valve

 

subscribing