I want to turbo my d16a6, what would you do with $2k. fuel management, turbo, etc...
I want to turbo my D16a6. I have come to the conclusion that I just want to run 8 to 10 psi on a stock block, with a block guard. What set up would you recomend using. I have about $2k to spent on it. Just shoot me some ideas. Oh yeah I kinda wanna rock a t25 or t28 for that quick spool. Let em know what you think.
What would I do?
Well, first off I would post in the Forced Induction forum rather than here.
That should give you some clear ideas rather than a bunch of cluttered thoughts.
#1 - you won't need that block guard because you won't be boosting enough to worry. Honda sleeves are pleanty stong for under 10psi. I have heard they max out at about 16psi or something up in that range.
So 8~10 psi with a T25 or T28 - sounds very much like what you can get out of a Greddy kit. Maybe find a used one and slap it on. Adjust the wastegate from 6 psi to 8~10 psi and there you go. You could slap together a junk yard turbo setup as well. Probably cost you about $700~$1200 depending on the parts you go with. It could cost a whole lot more as well, but why spend $$$$ on a stock motor setup?
A little Turboedit action on the ECU and some dyno tuning should take care of you.
Seems like you could pull this off for about $1500 including tuning IF you do the labor and ECU chipping yourself.
I don't know for sure though. I have mapped out a future setup for my car so I honestly don't have real world experience in it yet. Peoples in the Forrced Induction area can do a much better job.
Well, first off I would post in the Forced Induction forum rather than here.
That should give you some clear ideas rather than a bunch of cluttered thoughts.
#1 - you won't need that block guard because you won't be boosting enough to worry. Honda sleeves are pleanty stong for under 10psi. I have heard they max out at about 16psi or something up in that range.
So 8~10 psi with a T25 or T28 - sounds very much like what you can get out of a Greddy kit. Maybe find a used one and slap it on. Adjust the wastegate from 6 psi to 8~10 psi and there you go. You could slap together a junk yard turbo setup as well. Probably cost you about $700~$1200 depending on the parts you go with. It could cost a whole lot more as well, but why spend $$$$ on a stock motor setup?
A little Turboedit action on the ECU and some dyno tuning should take care of you.
Seems like you could pull this off for about $1500 including tuning IF you do the labor and ECU chipping yourself.
I don't know for sure though. I have mapped out a future setup for my car so I honestly don't have real world experience in it yet. Peoples in the Forrced Induction area can do a much better job.
really?!?!
Well what should I do to keep it dependable, like fueal inrichment and what not??? please help, what kit should i buy. the one on ebaY. its super cheap and seems decent.
Well what should I do to keep it dependable, like fueal inrichment and what not??? please help, what kit should i buy. the one on ebaY. its super cheap and seems decent.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by phoQ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">really?!?!
Well what should I do to keep it dependable, like fueal inrichment and what not??? please help, what kit should i buy. the one on ebaY. its super cheap and seems decent.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you get what you pay for.
Take a hard look at Turboedit and some dyno tuning.
OR - be cheap and do the VAFC hack.
OR - be even cheaper and use an FMU.
Turboedit is the best reliabality for low cost IMO.
Well what should I do to keep it dependable, like fueal inrichment and what not??? please help, what kit should i buy. the one on ebaY. its super cheap and seems decent.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you get what you pay for.
Take a hard look at Turboedit and some dyno tuning.
OR - be cheap and do the VAFC hack.
OR - be even cheaper and use an FMU.
Turboedit is the best reliabality for low cost IMO.
turbo edit if thats your thing i like hondata, alot of peeps tune using this program it has alot of upgrades and such. I would say if you buy the turbo kit in pieces it will be cheaper and better than if you bought a kit such as greddy etc. Also think long term is this something you want for now or something you plan or having for a couple years. If you plan on keeping the the car for a hot secong throw a junkyard turbo on there
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I have a d16a6: 92-95 Civic EX intake mani, 94 Prelude H23 intectors flow 345, in- line fuel pump E2000 70-96 psi 30-40 gph at wide open throttle (AutoZone), 12:1 FMU, SSAutoChrome T3 turbo, SSAutochrome Exhaust Mani (be sure to put a brace on the down pipe where the stock mani braces to the block just above the oil pan, or it WILL crack), SSAutoChrome Intercooler, Off name blow off valve (it works), Turbonetics Mark II Wastegate 5-7 psi (I'm running 5), Wheel spin through first, second, and half of third. No interior, no A/C, no spare, and all I have is two seats and a dash. I have a little over 1k in the turbo setup. At a 20 mph roll in second I hit full boost at 3700 rpm, and the tires give up and spin like a ****!!!! Stock d15b2 clutch and flywheel in d16a6 with a dx transmission.
FMU is a fuel management unit. Basically it raises your fuel pressure for every psi of boost. Basically a 12:1 fmu will raise your fuel pressure 12 psi for every 1 psi of boost. So for 10 psi you will have 120 psi of fuel pressure plus the static fuel pressure of what around 40psi=160 psi of fuel pressure. You will definitely need a high pressure inline fuel pump to handle the high pressure. I would go with turboedit.
http://www.turboedit.org
http://www.turboedit.org
you mean you would go with turboedit over the fmu .
I was thinking I could just run the lude injectors with a walbro pump and a fuel pressure reulator, and turbo edit and some tuning.
I was thinking I could just run the lude injectors with a walbro pump and a fuel pressure reulator, and turbo edit and some tuning.
cool, your set up sounds pretty much like what I want. kepp me posted on your progress. As far as tuning and turboedit stuff i really get confused. At thier site it says free so how do i use it?
http://www.green91.com/
click obd0 tuning... its a quick tutorial i made. also, read up on pgmfi.org and xenocron.com
click obd0 tuning... its a quick tutorial i made. also, read up on pgmfi.org and xenocron.com
I got a question, after reading your tutorial.
It says the first step is to socket the ECU, but why socket an unprogrammed chip onto your ecu? Wouldn't you buy the chip, create a basemap in TurboEdit, burn the basemap onto the chip using a eprom burner, and lastly socket the burned chip onto the ecu?
It says the first step is to socket the ECU, but why socket an unprogrammed chip onto your ecu? Wouldn't you buy the chip, create a basemap in TurboEdit, burn the basemap onto the chip using a eprom burner, and lastly socket the burned chip onto the ecu?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Noob4life »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I got a question, after reading your tutorial.
It says the first step is to socket the ECU, but why socket an unprogrammed chip onto your ecu? Wouldn't you buy the chip, create a basemap in TurboEdit, burn the basemap onto the chip using a eprom burner, and lastly socket the burned chip onto the ecu?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You use a ZIF(zero-insertion-force) chip and socket. You can easily install and remove the chip with your hands. You solder in the ZIF socket.
Here's some links if you have more ??
http://www.pgmfi.org/twiki/bin...pping
http://www.xenocron.com/te.php?page=starting
http://www.homemadeturbo.com/f...497.0
It says the first step is to socket the ECU, but why socket an unprogrammed chip onto your ecu? Wouldn't you buy the chip, create a basemap in TurboEdit, burn the basemap onto the chip using a eprom burner, and lastly socket the burned chip onto the ecu?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You use a ZIF(zero-insertion-force) chip and socket. You can easily install and remove the chip with your hands. You solder in the ZIF socket.
Here's some links if you have more ??
http://www.pgmfi.org/twiki/bin...pping
http://www.xenocron.com/te.php?page=starting
http://www.homemadeturbo.com/f...497.0
I'm gonna throw out some more turbo links that I was psyched on when I found them.
flanges, DP, comp outlet, BOV, also HF adaptor plates:
WeirRacing on HMT,
http://www.homemadeturbo.com/f...59724
http://www.roadraceengineering...s.htm
http://www.hahnracecraft.com/h...l.htm
mandrel bends:
http://www.magnumforce.com/ubend.asp
best prices I have found.
Cool DIY turbo shops:
http://tunertoys.com/
http://www.stealthmodeperforma...s.htm
Oh yeah. I'd highly reccomend getting ARP headstuds and a metal headgasket. I went with an oem honda Y8 3layer gasket, $36.
http://www.lightningmotorsports.com/arp.htm
best price I found for headstuds, $89 shipped
http://www.fab-forum.com/forum...&PN=1
Have fun
Modified by 90wagon4wd at 11:57 PM 4/3/2005
flanges, DP, comp outlet, BOV, also HF adaptor plates:
WeirRacing on HMT,
http://www.homemadeturbo.com/f...59724
http://www.roadraceengineering...s.htm
http://www.hahnracecraft.com/h...l.htm
mandrel bends:
http://www.magnumforce.com/ubend.asp
best prices I have found.
Cool DIY turbo shops:
http://tunertoys.com/
http://www.stealthmodeperforma...s.htm
Oh yeah. I'd highly reccomend getting ARP headstuds and a metal headgasket. I went with an oem honda Y8 3layer gasket, $36.
http://www.lightningmotorsports.com/arp.htm
best price I found for headstuds, $89 shipped
http://www.fab-forum.com/forum...&PN=1
Have fun
Modified by 90wagon4wd at 11:57 PM 4/3/2005


