Shortening and rerunning brake lines
I'm in the process of shaving my engne bay and want to relocate the proportioning valve lower down. I have seen some people do it, but I need to know if you need to do anything special with the brake lines, like the length of them or such? Do they have to be in proportion with each other? Any info is greatly appreciated.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by k20AN95CPE »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I agree, it should not matter.
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I don't see how the length would matter. Get yourself a tube bender, flare tool and a pipe cutter and go to town.
</TD></TR></TABLE>I don't see how the length would matter. Get yourself a tube bender, flare tool and a pipe cutter and go to town.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adictionbass »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you gat a pic of ur setup?
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i have more but im waiting till everythign is done (hopefully debut the car @ IAS in NJ) firewall is smooth though
</TD></TR></TABLE>i have more but im waiting till everythign is done (hopefully debut the car @ IAS in NJ) firewall is smooth though
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mpir3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my brake lines are all stainless steel and relocated off the firewall, no issues
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Did you use new fittings and if you did, what size are they?
</TD></TR></TABLE>Did you use new fittings and if you did, what size are they?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my brake lines are all stainless steel and relocated off the firewall, no issues </TD></TR></TABLE>
Please explain how you did this too and show pics. I am very interested.
Please explain how you did this too and show pics. I am very interested.
I just did mine. You need some 3/16" steel or stainless steel tubing (stainless is so much better looking), a tubing bender, a flare tool (double flaring tool for plain steel), a tubing cutter and a de-burring tool.
You can reuse the tube nuts that are all ready on your car, or you buy some new ones. They are 10mm x 1.0 tube nuts. You can also use -3an couplers to join 2 lines together if its too hard to make 1 single line make all the bends (this can be a challenge). For the -3an couplers you will need -3an tube nuts and sleeves.
I had to do this because my new motor would put my intake manifold right in my brake master cylinder. I ended up using 2 tilton master cylinders with a custom adaptor plate and my stock brake pedal that I modified. No more booster for me
You can reuse the tube nuts that are all ready on your car, or you buy some new ones. They are 10mm x 1.0 tube nuts. You can also use -3an couplers to join 2 lines together if its too hard to make 1 single line make all the bends (this can be a challenge). For the -3an couplers you will need -3an tube nuts and sleeves.
I had to do this because my new motor would put my intake manifold right in my brake master cylinder. I ended up using 2 tilton master cylinders with a custom adaptor plate and my stock brake pedal that I modified. No more booster for me
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NitroSign »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">got pics?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'll see if I can take a few pics tomorrow.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ctownintegra »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is there a way to run braided stainless lines off the firewall?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes you can. You will need -3an to 10mmx1.0 adaptors for your master cylinder and your prop valve.
If you goto summitracing.com , search for part # AER-FBM2941.
But hard line is better. Stainless braided hose still expands... just not as much as rubber hose. Hard lines dont expand at all.... or not enough to measure.
I'll see if I can take a few pics tomorrow.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ctownintegra »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is there a way to run braided stainless lines off the firewall?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes you can. You will need -3an to 10mmx1.0 adaptors for your master cylinder and your prop valve.
If you goto summitracing.com , search for part # AER-FBM2941.
But hard line is better. Stainless braided hose still expands... just not as much as rubber hose. Hard lines dont expand at all.... or not enough to measure.
The Earl's 3AN is very good for brake lines. They use a nylon inner to reduce flex. A lot of people who I've talked to, mainly hot rodders, said they really can't tell a difference in pedal when using 3AN Earl's. I did my whole front brake setup using Earl's line. I have my prop valve under the dash now.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fuckvtec. »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats greg's car from true life</TD></TR></TABLE>
haha i remember that show
haha i remember that show




