Since many people were asking about wiring up starter kill relays, I've decided to make some diagrams for people to use. Please note that I take no responsibility in the event **** happens. I am a 3rd year electrical/computer engineering student and the information set forth is accurate to the best of my knowledge. Use at your own risk!

Peace out!


Parts Needed:
-Rocker Switch or Push Button for starter if you want (walmart or radioshack)
-SPST or SPDT 30Amp Automotive 12VDC Relays (ebay)
-Wire stripper (go to walmart)
-14-16 Gauge wires (can be bought at walmart for cheap)

So Where Can I Buy Relays For Cheap And Not Get Ripped Off?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...33721

I HIGHLY RECOMMEND you buy a relay with a harness.

I buy all my relays from this seller on ebay. This seller is in Irvine,CA and I get my relays next day so fast! I am in no way affiliated with this seller, buy at your own risk.

So Where Can I Buy The Quick Disconnects for the Starter wire so I don't have to cut it?

http://www.radioshack.com/prod...-3133












Modified by l337hxr at 10:41 AM 3/29/2005

 

Hell ya

 

Bummppp.

 

in for ref. too much reading for right now.. hah

 

wow this guy is good. i will be doing this when the motor goes in

 

this is very helpfull
one question

if my alarm is setup for power door locks and i dont have them so i dont use those 2 wires
can i use them for on/off the starter kill relay and fuel cut off relay at the same time?

 

Is there any way to use the momentary switch with the fuel pump?

Because with the momentary switch connected to the starter the theif can just push start your car.

 

no, not on the fuel pump! Remember, what a momentary switch is, its just a push-button...a contact for a specific time...WHILE you're holding down the button, the circuit is complete.... so what happens when you remove your finger from the button? the circuit dis-engages, and your fuel pump will have no power.

This is why you can NOT use a push-button/momentary button on the fuel pump...not without another special electronic circuit...

if the thief wants to push start your car, then wire in a fuel pump kill switch in conjunction with the starter kill. Two is better than one. Not all thieves steal a car the same way. One thief may prefer to hot wire, another may prefer to jump start, another may prefer to push - start, and some may turn away when they see a Club or AutoLock. The idea is to have lots of theft deterrants...

 

do you have an idea where i could find the starter wires in side the car? could it be the same wire color (black and white) on a 2000 civic coupe?

 

You should be able to find them at the ignition switch. Though having the kill switch ran off of the wire at the ignition switch makes it very easy for a thief to just find the cut wire and connect it together.

l337hxr,
In your first diagram, it would be wise to not use constant +12 volts and instead use switched ignition +12 volts. If you use constant power and forget to turn the rocker switch back off, a relay will constantly be energized, even if the car is off, draining the battery.

 

so where else could i find it? any onther locations? like under the glove compartment, behind the radio, etc.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Coomer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
l337hxr,
In your first diagram, it would be wise to not use constant +12 volts and instead use switched ignition +12 volts. If you use constant power and forget to turn the rocker switch back off, a relay will constantly be energized, even if the car is off, draining the battery.</TD></TR></TABLE>

that is true...




Modified by l337hxr at 4:51 AM 4/4/2005

 

hey do you know what wire i can use from my alarm so when i arm it i doesnt provide the 12v+ to the relay
and when i disarm it it will

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dmakarov &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey do you know what wire i can use from my alarm so when i arm it i doesnt provide the 12v+ to the relay
and when i disarm it it will </TD></TR></TABLE>

it all depends on your alarm. like one of the previous posters said, just use the ignition +12.

another possible way to wire this is using a reed switch, they are magnetically activated and virtually impossible to find. even if they find your activation switch and clip it, the reed is still hidden and wont energize the relay until its activated.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by veggiemaster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

it all depends on your alarm. like one of the previous posters said, just use the ignition +12.

another possible way to wire this is using a reed switch, they are magnetically activated and virtually impossible to find. even if they find your activation switch and clip it, the reed is still hidden and wont energize the relay until its activated. </TD></TR></TABLE>

yea, exactly we don't know how alarm systems work...every alarm system different. the reed switch will be good...

however, i would advise AGAINST using reed switches on fuel pumps.... and the reason being is you don't want your fuel to cut off while your driving on freeway or when you're at WOT.... could be disasterous for your motor or your safety. that is why a good relay and a good switch should be used.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by l337hxr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no, not on the fuel pump! Remember, what a momentary switch is, its just a push-button...a contact for a specific time...WHILE you're holding down the button, the circuit is complete.... so what happens when you remove your finger from the button? the circuit dis-engages, and your fuel pump will have no power.

This is why you can NOT use a push-button/momentary button on the fuel pump...not without another special electronic circuit...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You could build this extra circuit rather easy you would just need to latch the present state and reset when the car is shut off. Could even be done with relays, waste of power to do with relays but possible.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dmakarov &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey do you know what wire i can use from my alarm so when i arm it i doesnt provide the 12v+ to the relay
and when i disarm it it will </TD></TR></TABLE>

You'd use your alarm's grounded when armed wire. it would go to terminal 85 on a relay. Switched ignition +12v would go to terminal 86. Terminal 30 would go to your cut fuel pump wire on the fuel pump side, and terminal 87a would go to your cut fuel pump wire on the dash side.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by l337hxr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

however, i would advise AGAINST using reed switches on fuel pumps.... and the reason being is you don't want your fuel to cut off while your driving on freeway or when you're at WOT.... could be disasterous for your motor or your safety. that is why a good relay and a good switch should be used.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i think you misunderstood, it all depends on what kind of relay you get and how you wire it up. you can take a SPDT relay that gets energized to one pole when the reed switch is activated. when you want to disengage it and return it to its other pole state, then you hit a push button and it energizes to the other pole, that is just grounded. that way the reed doesnt always need to be activated in order for it to kick in.

 

n00b question, sorry. so the point is to HIDE these kill switches and their wiring as to make it more difficult for thieves to get a complete circuit for your starter and/or fuel pump, correct? also, i just bought a 7th gen accord. if the dealership finds out about this electrical tampering, will this void the electrical warranty? and if this is the case, the monetary switch is probably a bad idea for the time being, since that can't really be hidden from the dealer..

 

I believe that the new accords come with immobilizers. if thats so, then this wouldnt really be necessary for you. This is for us with older hondas that dont have the new-fangled security. But, again, if they want your car bad enough, they are going to get it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dmakarov &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this is very helpfull
one question

if my alarm is setup for power door locks and i dont have them so i dont use those 2 wires
can i use them for on/off the starter kill relay and fuel cut off relay at the same time?
</TD></TR></TABLE> You would use a relay and a solinoid, the outputs for doolocks are momentary, and the relay setups shown above are not passive, in the true sence, although you can use a momentary switch on the starter one, [hold switch when starting car] you would need a latching switch for the fuel pump, with a latching relay you could use a momentary switch, [any kind] and if ign. is wired to the other side of relays, turn ign. on, push momentary switch, relays will latch on, turn ign. off, relays will delatch, [passive]. 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by veggiemaster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I believe that the new accords come with immobilizers. if thats so, then this wouldnt really be necessary for you. This is for us with older hondas that dont have the new-fangled security. But, again, if they want your car bad enough, they are going to get it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea, my '05 comes with immobilizer, but not sure if all 7th gen has it. sure, its true that if anyone wants your car bad can get it, but does that mean we should just hand it over to them? i think the point is just to create more obstacles for thieves, so that if they do try to steal our cars, they have to spend a logner time working at it, and increase the chances of getting caught while fumbling with wires. imo, if i was a thief, id prefer to go for a car with only one obstacle to overcome rather than jack a car with 4-5 obstacles to get through.

 

im not saying give it to them at all. and i agree, 5 obstacles is a lot harder to get through than 1, but honestly, how many new accords do you hear about getting stolen? since honda implemented the immobilizer, theft dropped through the floor.

i personally dont know how they can get through the honda immobilizer (but i know there must be ways to do it)

anyway, back to your warranty question, if you are financing the car then its not a big deal, especially if you do the splicing VERY cleanly, but if you are leasing the car, thats a different story. it clearly states in the lease contract that you cant do any personal modifications to the car, unless its honda oem, and dealer authorized. thats why our pilot lease agreement says anyway...

 

if you are doing the starter kill, you DON"T NEED to cut the wires. I have stated this that you can use quick disconnects. Although I am not 100% sure if accordhe starter's use quick disconnect pins, they probably use some sort of connector you can buy. Then just buy a female and male pin and connect those. If you ever need to take off the switch, plug it back in... wallah! no wire cutting!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dmakarov &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey do you know what wire i can use from my alarm so when i arm it i doesnt provide the 12v+ to the relay
and when i disarm it it will

</TD></TR></TABLE>No alarm that I know of has a 12v+ output when disarmed, or when armed, most alarmes will have a "ground out" when armed, [used for starter disable] it will go to one side of relay, the other side will get 12v+ if ign. is turned on, opening relay that you would wire to starter wire, [engine would not turn over] the problem is , you don't want a relay on when the car is off, [they draw power] as I said before you would use a solinoid with a SPDT switch on it and trip it with the doorlock outputs, it would supply 12v when doors are unlocked, [alarm disarmed] and not when locked, [alarm armed] the solinoid uses no power except when switching, [just like your doolocks] 94