stroked b16 to 1.8-1.85L?
Ive got a B16a2 that I am hoping to stroke to a 1.8-1.85L. I have searched but have not found answers to my specific question. My question is what will I need to make a reliable stroked B16. Im pretty sure it consists of LS crank, rods for LS or B16?, are CTR pistons good for CR ratio? or reccomendations on pistons and rod setup? Planning on building the head this summer. Any input would be great. Thanks
the kit requires you source an LS crank and rods---- the only thing he sells are ARIAS pistons with a raised pin location allowing the piston to sit inside the sleeve instead of poking out and damaging the head/valves, i think it runs 585 dollars, a cheap quick way to get torque but why not just put an LS bottom end on for less money?
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you dont need any specific "kit" to get 1.85+ displacement. 81.5 x 89 is going to get you 1857cc's. Your going to need a LS crank, a set of B16 (5.290) rods and a custom piston with a .955 compression height. Thats if you want to run 0 deck, for factored deck clearance just subtract the deck clearance youd like to have from the compression height.
Example:
Lets say you want .015 deck clearance.
.955 - .015 = .940
you can sleeve and go bigger if youd like. 85 x 89 = 2020cc's
If youd like to use the LS rods you will have to run a much shorter .852 compression height and a button with a machined oil ring groove. You will also have to run a .708 or smaller pin and have your rods rebushed to axccept the small pin. Any piston manufacture can make the piston for you. Its going to have to be a full skirt piston and weight with the buttons will be around the same as your average strutted piston. You will be giving up a lot of skirt (it will be a lot shorter) decreasing in bore stabilty which can and in most cases does contribute to tilt, especially with the not so great rod angle given from the 1.54 r/s ratio.
The .955 compression height will give you a lot more skirt to work with, theres no need for buttons either. You can run a D series .748 pin and be clear of the oil ring groove all together. Your r/s ratio will be 1.51 which isnt too far off of the stock LS, the difference in piston speeds are minor. The piston will also be lighter because going this route will allow you to run a strutted skirt.
Example:
Lets say you want .015 deck clearance.
.955 - .015 = .940
you can sleeve and go bigger if youd like. 85 x 89 = 2020cc's
If youd like to use the LS rods you will have to run a much shorter .852 compression height and a button with a machined oil ring groove. You will also have to run a .708 or smaller pin and have your rods rebushed to axccept the small pin. Any piston manufacture can make the piston for you. Its going to have to be a full skirt piston and weight with the buttons will be around the same as your average strutted piston. You will be giving up a lot of skirt (it will be a lot shorter) decreasing in bore stabilty which can and in most cases does contribute to tilt, especially with the not so great rod angle given from the 1.54 r/s ratio.
The .955 compression height will give you a lot more skirt to work with, theres no need for buttons either. You can run a D series .748 pin and be clear of the oil ring groove all together. Your r/s ratio will be 1.51 which isnt too far off of the stock LS, the difference in piston speeds are minor. The piston will also be lighter because going this route will allow you to run a strutted skirt.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by andrewbolton »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ive got a B16a2 that I am hoping to stroke to a 1.8-1.85L. I have searched but have not found answers to my specific question. My question is what will I need to make a reliable stroked B16. Im pretty sure it consists of LS crank, rods for LS or B16?, are CTR pistons good for CR ratio? or reccomendations on pistons and rod setup? Planning on building the head this summer. Any input would be great. Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
I just don't see any reason for doing this. For less than any stroker kit would cost, you could get a complete P72 short block, ready to go. MUCH more reliable, too. Also remember that any setup that uses an LS crank and rods is going to be no more reliable than a basic LS shortblock, which is cheaper yet.
I just don't see any reason for doing this. For less than any stroker kit would cost, you could get a complete P72 short block, ready to go. MUCH more reliable, too. Also remember that any setup that uses an LS crank and rods is going to be no more reliable than a basic LS shortblock, which is cheaper yet.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StorminMatt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I just don't see any reason for doing this. For less than any stroker kit would cost, you could get a complete P72 short block, ready to go. MUCH more reliable, too. Also remember that any setup that uses an LS crank and rods is going to be no more reliable than a basic LS shortblock, which is cheaper yet.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It will actually be less reliable
I just don't see any reason for doing this. For less than any stroker kit would cost, you could get a complete P72 short block, ready to go. MUCH more reliable, too. Also remember that any setup that uses an LS crank and rods is going to be no more reliable than a basic LS shortblock, which is cheaper yet.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It will actually be less reliable
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by elinetics »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Where can I contact tech 43? interested on those pistons..</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hey bro u can contact Steve Taylor at 310-715-2534.
Hey bro u can contact Steve Taylor at 310-715-2534.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Innovation »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you dont need any specific "kit" to get 1.85+ displacement. 81.5 x 89 is going to get you 1857cc's. Your going to need a LS crank, a set of B16 (5.290) rods and a custom piston with a .955 compression height. Thats if you want to run 0 deck, for factored deck clearance just subtract the deck clearance youd like to have from the compression height.
Example:
Lets say you want .015 deck clearance.
.955 - .015 = .940
you can sleeve and go bigger if youd like. 85 x 89 = 2020cc's
If youd like to use the LS rods you will have to run a much shorter .852 compression height and a button with a machined oil ring groove. You will also have to run a .708 or smaller pin and have your rods rebushed to axccept the small pin. Any piston manufacture can make the piston for you. Its going to have to be a full skirt piston and weight with the buttons will be around the same as your average strutted piston. You will be giving up a lot of skirt (it will be a lot shorter) decreasing in bore stabilty which can and in most cases does contribute to tilt, especially with the not so great rod angle given from the 1.54 r/s ratio.
The .955 compression height will give you a lot more skirt to work with, theres no need for buttons either. You can run a D series .748 pin and be clear of the oil ring groove all together. Your r/s ratio will be 1.51 which isnt too far off of the stock LS, the difference in piston speeds are minor. The piston will also be lighter because going this route will allow you to run a strutted skirt.</TD></TR></TABLE>
wow good info
Example:
Lets say you want .015 deck clearance.
.955 - .015 = .940
you can sleeve and go bigger if youd like. 85 x 89 = 2020cc's
If youd like to use the LS rods you will have to run a much shorter .852 compression height and a button with a machined oil ring groove. You will also have to run a .708 or smaller pin and have your rods rebushed to axccept the small pin. Any piston manufacture can make the piston for you. Its going to have to be a full skirt piston and weight with the buttons will be around the same as your average strutted piston. You will be giving up a lot of skirt (it will be a lot shorter) decreasing in bore stabilty which can and in most cases does contribute to tilt, especially with the not so great rod angle given from the 1.54 r/s ratio.
The .955 compression height will give you a lot more skirt to work with, theres no need for buttons either. You can run a D series .748 pin and be clear of the oil ring groove all together. Your r/s ratio will be 1.51 which isnt too far off of the stock LS, the difference in piston speeds are minor. The piston will also be lighter because going this route will allow you to run a strutted skirt.</TD></TR></TABLE>
wow good info
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Innovation »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It will actually be less reliable</TD></TR></TABLE>
How is a stroked B16A that is based on LS parts going to be MORE reliable than a P72 bottom end? ANY LS-VTEC person knows that the stock LS bottom end parts are not the stuff that dreams are made of. I just don't see how they are going to be MORE reliable if you drop them in a B16A bottom end. The B18C stuff is stronger. And the rod ratio is quite a bit better than what you get with LS stuff (1.58 vs 1.54).
It will actually be less reliable</TD></TR></TABLE>
How is a stroked B16A that is based on LS parts going to be MORE reliable than a P72 bottom end? ANY LS-VTEC person knows that the stock LS bottom end parts are not the stuff that dreams are made of. I just don't see how they are going to be MORE reliable if you drop them in a B16A bottom end. The B18C stuff is stronger. And the rod ratio is quite a bit better than what you get with LS stuff (1.58 vs 1.54).
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