ATTN: Mugen shift knob owners! How-to align logo inside!
Did you pay $70+ for a mugen shift **** only to find that the damn logo doesn't align right? Do you long for that "laser etched" logo to face the armrest like it should? Do you feel bad, disappointed, devastated??? Well here is your answer! Get off that damn zoloft!
TOOLS AND MATERIALS NEEDED:
1. scissor
2. Piece of bathroom, kitchen, or pool towel. (JDM towels work best
)
3. Philips head screw driver
4. and a steady hand (Fitting for the "***** shapped" nature of the mugen ****)
Step one- take that peice of towel and cut about a square inch out of it
Step two- squish the cut-out of towel into a ball shape of some sort
Step three- jam that bad boy into the **** and use the screw driver to push into the very top of the ****
Step four- screw shift **** on and notice with relief that you should now be able to get the logo to whatever position your desire thanks to the towel insert adding some extra play room when the **** begins to tighten.
I just did this like five minutes ago. I'm posting this because when I searched earlier on this topic I saw people suggesting things such as using locktite and teflon tape. DO NOT BOTHER with this stuff! I hope I helped someone with this post! ONE...
BTW I reposted this in the ITR forum as some of the suggestions I recieved earlier came from searching the ITR forum and am hoping to help anyone with this...
TOOLS AND MATERIALS NEEDED:
1. scissor
2. Piece of bathroom, kitchen, or pool towel. (JDM towels work best
)3. Philips head screw driver
4. and a steady hand (Fitting for the "***** shapped" nature of the mugen ****)
Step one- take that peice of towel and cut about a square inch out of it
Step two- squish the cut-out of towel into a ball shape of some sort
Step three- jam that bad boy into the **** and use the screw driver to push into the very top of the ****
Step four- screw shift **** on and notice with relief that you should now be able to get the logo to whatever position your desire thanks to the towel insert adding some extra play room when the **** begins to tighten.
I just did this like five minutes ago. I'm posting this because when I searched earlier on this topic I saw people suggesting things such as using locktite and teflon tape. DO NOT BOTHER with this stuff! I hope I helped someone with this post! ONE...
BTW I reposted this in the ITR forum as some of the suggestions I recieved earlier came from searching the ITR forum and am hoping to help anyone with this...
OOOOR you could have went to Honda and bought the nut for the bottom of the S2000 shift ****. Then screwed the shift **** on as far down as you want make the logo face the armrest like it should and then tighten the nut from the bottom to lock everything into place.
That's what I did with my JDM ITR shift **** and it's perfect and the nut is only $3.00 from Honda.
I'm sure it should work for the Mugen shift **** too but if for some reason it wouldn't then nice writeup
That's what I did with my JDM ITR shift **** and it's perfect and the nut is only $3.00 from Honda.
I'm sure it should work for the Mugen shift **** too but if for some reason it wouldn't then nice writeup
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1999all_motoR_teg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OOOOR you could have went to Honda and bought the nut for the bottom of the S2000 shift ****. Then screwed the shift **** on as far down as you want make the logo face the armrest like it should and then tighten the nut from the bottom to lock everything into place.
That's what I did with my JDM ITR shift **** and it's perfect and the nut is only $3.00 from Honda.
I'm sure it should work for the Mugen shift **** too but if for some reason it wouldn't then nice writeup
</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, this won't work. The Mugen **** screws down waaaay past the last thread on the shift lever.
So, if you used the bolt, the Mugen **** will sit up about 2" higher or more on the shift lever. Same goes for the oem ITR ****--take that nut off and you can get the **** further down the lever, for a cheapo shorter throw. The pattern may not line up, but using the towel trick (as described above) will allow this to happen.
That's what I did with my JDM ITR shift **** and it's perfect and the nut is only $3.00 from Honda.
I'm sure it should work for the Mugen shift **** too but if for some reason it wouldn't then nice writeup
</TD></TR></TABLE>No, this won't work. The Mugen **** screws down waaaay past the last thread on the shift lever.
So, if you used the bolt, the Mugen **** will sit up about 2" higher or more on the shift lever. Same goes for the oem ITR ****--take that nut off and you can get the **** further down the lever, for a cheapo shorter throw. The pattern may not line up, but using the towel trick (as described above) will allow this to happen.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Todd00 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No, this won't work. The Mugen **** screws down waaaay past the last thread on the shift lever.
So, if you used the bolt, the Mugen **** will sit up about 2" higher or more on the shift lever. Same goes for the oem ITR ****--take that nut off and you can get the **** further down the lever, for a cheapo shorter throw. The pattern may not line up, but using the towel trick (as described above) will allow this to happen.</TD></TR></TABLE>
He is 100% correct. My work is done here...
So, if you used the bolt, the Mugen **** will sit up about 2" higher or more on the shift lever. Same goes for the oem ITR ****--take that nut off and you can get the **** further down the lever, for a cheapo shorter throw. The pattern may not line up, but using the towel trick (as described above) will allow this to happen.</TD></TR></TABLE>
He is 100% correct. My work is done here...
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Nihilus
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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Apr 18, 2005 06:02 AM



Good info 
