Well in total it took us about 20 hours to finish the FULL 10-point roll cage. We started with 20ft long pieces of straight tubing and a $100 pipe bender. The cage is completely tacked in, and there is about 3-4 hours of welding left. But all the hard work is done.

Here are the pics, Enjoy

 

very sexy...what engine are you using?

 

built h22/ full T4/ should make 600+

But power means nothing unless you can use it. We are working on the traction setup while the motor is at the machine shop. Turbo setup is ready to be bolted on and tuned once the motor get's back. Should be in a few weeks and i'll be posting up some dyno charts.

 

very nice...full out race car i'm assuming? what kind of suspension are you guys working on?

 

Well we are doing 2 solid(no flex what so ever) motor mounts to take care of wheel hop. Solid trailer arm bushings. ES Bushing kit. Already have ST Sway bars and ingells camber kit all the way around. Fabing up something to keep the rear struts solid. 26" slicks. Stock axles till they break, then getting some DSS axles.

The crappy part about doing all of this, is that there is nothing to go off of. Basically trial and error, seeing what works and what doesn't work.

 

good job

 

thanks

 

nice...

 

very very good looking!!!!

 

just curious...did you copycat a professional roll cage or did you calculate the stress on the car frame yourselves?(did you use math to figure our where to put the bars to support weight)

 

That is pretty sweet! nice work!

 

The structural integrety of the cage to the chassis was not calculated down to the decimal point. We did however follow all the NHRA guidlines for a 10-point cage using their 2005 rule book. All the tubing is where it needs to be in order to be a legal 10-point.

I wouldn't say, copycat, but yes we looked at other cages to see how they did their's. But in the end, it's a total original and was fabricated from nothing and is like no other.

Does that answer your question? ?

 

yeah, that answers my question. i was just curious how you knew where to weld all the bars and how to shape it. i always thought people bought pre-made cages and welded them in. i'm impressed that you actually took the time to build one yourself. good work

 

Thanks a lot

 

I've been looking on all of the pictures, but I can't find the seatbelt for the passangers in the rear.

 

i noticed you are going with ST sway bars. i was wondering, since it appears that you're building a dedicated drag car, wouldn't you be throwing away a few hundred bucks on these since you'll only be going straight? you seem like you know what you're doing, so please fill me in. either way, this 'cage is sick as hell. great work!

 

Can you not run through the firewall or the dash?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by buzzboy8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i noticed you are going with ST sway bars. i was wondering, since it appears that you're building a dedicated drag car, wouldn't you be throwing away a few hundred bucks on these since you'll only be going straight? you seem like you know what you're doing, so please fill me in. either way, this 'cage is sick as hell. great work!</TD></TR></TABLE>

The sway bars were done before i started all this mess. And i've heard of a few people taking the sway bars out completely but, from what i understand without them in, it would be unsafe to turn the car at any speed over 30-40mph. like let's say i'm at the 1/8 mile going 100+mph and the car pulls to the left really hard and i have to jerk it to the right. I could lose control of the car very easily and it would go all over the place(probably the wall). Many have told me that they will help with launching, but we will just have to see. And also, the car will still be street driven from time to time. So we are going to run them

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by urbanlegend21 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can you not run through the firewall or the dash?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I assume your talking about the roll bars? To have the bar that goes across the front, right under the windsheild(a bar that would connect the 2 that go down the a-pillar) would make putting the stock dash back on a bitch. So until i go with a complete aluminium dash we are not putting that bar in. It's not necessary for the 10 point anyways. And as for going through the firewall. That would be needed to do a 12-point.

 

The front cross bar is a MAJOR part of the roll cage...............

 

It doesn't say anywher in the rule book that the front crossbar is needed, i guess i'll have to do some investigating on that. It would be very easy to add that bar in now. But with the dashboard on, the tech would never see that bar anyways

Just kinda thinking about it, and i bet that bar would add a ton of strutural support to the rest of the cage and the chassis. i think we will throw that bar in.

 

think of it as a heavy duty front strut bar as well as a bar to keep the motor from sitting in your lap if you head into a wall at 100 + mph

 

that is some clean *** metal in there....sound deadening adhesive crap &gt; me....

 

cool.

 

i dont run sway bars at all , i took them things out long time ago , but i got a drag spool with that sway bars are not your friend lol,

but i was thinking about doing my cage my self in my car ,but who knows with me but ill be doing a 8point im not looking to go faster then a 9.99 since u must are with a 10point cage!

and you putting the parts back in the car?

only thing with me is with a 4door cars its kind hard to do a cage to keep your back seats since im not gutting my car its not a every day car but it need to keeping looking like it is and im doing swing out side bars

 

Nice cage . I heard leather doesn't really stick the driver into the seat very well. (Referring to buckets) Very well built cage though.