Well i never done one of these just never thought about it. couldnt find a tpic to put it under so i guess EF since its a crx. So if a moderator comes along could you move it or something?? otherwise here we go!

First off you have to be simply retarded if you cant figure this out on your own BUT i know there's some people out there that just like to make it easy. Your kit will come with the following parts;
Radius arms
x2 19mm bolts and nuts
x4 washers
x4 spacers
1 crossmember ( you also get a sticker and a t-shirt YAY!)

Anyone that is mechanicly inclined know you observe(look) at your case first.
This is your fromt cross member. it is right under/behind your radiator. there are x4 17mm bolts to take off, here are 2 then 2 on the other side. remove these, you will not need these bolts again.


These are your tow hooks. there are 3 on each side and are 14mm. KEEP THESE BOLTS you will need them. Best bet is to clean them free of rust with wire wheel or bead blaster and as i did, use anti seeze.


Now you come to your radius arms. there are 2 17mm bolts holding these onto your LCA(lower control arm). remove these and KEEP bolts. once again clean them if needed. also if you can, clean the surface area under your radius arms as in the second pic.



Now bolt the new radius arm to the lower control arm. use your 2 old 17mm bolts. I used anti seeze cause i hate when bolts break or get stuck. I also cleaned them.


bolt the new cross member in place. make sure you have it facing the correct way and if you get this wrong, you must have a slant eye.


Now, those 2 radiator tabs will probably get in your way. mine did so i hit them with a 2lb sledge then grinded the tips of the 10mm bolts down. Remember, these are for an 92-2000 civic not really for crx but l-con told me they just finished some? anyway you should be at this step now.


last step is to connect the radius arms up to the cross member. now this shaft can twist because there is studs on both sides. you dont want on stud way extended and one way in the tube. i would figure it would make it weaker so try to make them as even as possible. once the hole is line up, put one washer on then slide the spacer on the other side and put the bolt half way in. reapeat it again then screw the nit on. they are 19mm.


This is what it looks like complete. there is gonna be plenty of clearance for the gsr swap and itr headers on this bad boy ..not to mention its probably a 5lb difference alone and a strong sturdy set-up using the chromoly. thats it for me, if you are having trouble, then you should probably sell your car.

 

cool.

 

i would like clear pics of where it bolts to the LCA and the bracket that is used please.

 

there is only one place it can bolt on the lca and there is a nice clear pic of it on the 3rd picture down. and what bracket are u talking about let me know and i can post a pic later...

 

i know where it bolts. i hve the jimfab bar so i know how a traction bar installs, lol. but im talking about the actual part of the traction bar that attaches to the LCA i want to see a pic of the LCA with the LCON radius rods bolted to it.

and on another note, i was surprised to see the tabs on this bar only welded on 1 side. i know its probably not entirely necessary, but dont you think it would make it that much stronger? care to comment louie? (if you hapen to catch this thread, lol)

 

so what kind of radiator are you going use ? since the tabs had to be bent up??

 

if you are having trouble, then you should probably sell your car.
that's a ton of room

 

 

cool

 

Oh i know what you mean by the jim fab bars. because they mount different or something i cant remember. i'll get a pic up but to let u know it bolts on the same way the stock one is. and as for the radiator, the tabs werent bent too far or anything just slightly to make some room, the stock crx radiator will be just fine ...

 

lol, i know it bolts the same, i just wanna see the actual peice that bolts there. and the jimfab bar bolts to the same 2 holes on the lca

 

are the radius rods on the l-con cromoly or aluminum?

 

cromoly...

 

how much did these cost ?

 

cost me 330 shipped. they are like 299 plus ship and tax. well worth it tho. By the way louie if you run across this ask tom if its alright i mention you guys in honda tuning when i do the article on the car. im sure you wont care

 

nice. How long are those Radius rods? :-p I'll be making traction bar setup soon... just need a ball park on how long the radius rods need to be.

Looks good... this post ought to help out a lot of nOObs.

 

well, i dont know it depends on how your going to set it up. think about it, if u use studs and stuff who knos how long u have to make them. You could just copy the stock radius arms and make them cromoly and hook them up the same way these are.

Also you know, i was thiking im pretty much building the whole damn car i might as well do how to's on all kinds of crap. maybe i'll do one for the 11in rear brake conversion. i have one side done but i can do it with the other side. possibly the omni power suspension and the energy suspension kit. and i guess the damn gsr swap hell! i do this kinda stuff cause i know when im trying to find info i like pictured write ups so i can see what they are talking about so why not do it for others?

 

11 inch rear???? brakes... wow... why?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRXDrew &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">11 inch rear???? brakes... wow... why?</TD></TR></TABLE>

2000 Rear wheel horse power

 

how's the ground clearance with this bar? Some pics...a lot lower than stock xmember?

Vince

 

Nice write up. I didn't realize you have to pull the engine to install it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSRCRXsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i know where it bolts. i hve the jimfab bar so i know how a traction bar installs, lol. but im talking about the actual part of the traction bar that attaches to the LCA i want to see a pic of the LCA with the LCON radius rods bolted to it.

and on another note, i was surprised to see the tabs on this bar only welded on 1 side. i know its probably not entirely necessary, but dont you think it would make it that much stronger? care to comment louie? (if you hapen to catch this thread, lol) </TD></TR></TABLE>lol, just found it! your right it dosent need to be welded on both sides being that they wrap the tube 360* already! these bars are in mass production and are already over kill in strength so welding both sides would just slow down production and not do it anymore justice! good observation by the way...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tRex99 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
</TD></TR></TABLE>you need tighten the rod so most of the front rod ends are threaded in! the rear has more threads on it...

 

hahah lmao. yeah listen to the maker!!

 

Wait a second... isn't there a tranny mount on the crossmember?