i tried a air gun and map gas.. torched the poo poo outta it but it still wont budge... anyone have any ideas.. the motor is outta the car already.. who knows where to buy dat tool that holds the crank pulley??

 

Try this:

http://www.etoolcart.com/productgroup.asp?33=7

 

if the tranny is off...put a boly in the tranny side of the block...use a ball joint fork...tuning fork to stop the flywheel...stick your 17/19mm and 1/2 inch ratchet...nice and snugg on there...and smack the poo poo out of it with a mini sledge/mallet...should work after a couple times.

 

oh crap, not another stuck pulley bolt. Try a search on the topic, there are penty of threads on the subject. The best answer I can give is to try a bigger air gun.

 

I knocked on the bolt a few times witha hammer, just for a little impact. Then I had a freind hold the motor in place, and i just used a breaker bar. It seemed to work perfect, bolt came off without any effort. Hope this works for you. Oh yeah, dont forget to use something to hold the flywheel inplace, i used a screw driver, and placed it where the starter was.

peace


[Modified by iwhichisme, 2:34 PM 1/26/2002]

 

crank up the pressure on your air compressor.....
then give it **quick short blasts**

I used 150 psi on mine

to crank up the psi find the pressure switch box...
find the spring with the screw on top...
crank it down a bunch of turns...
make sure your compressor turns off before 150 psi though..
do don't want to blow it up

 

Save your $60+ dollars and go to a place that sells metric fasteners. Buy a 33mm nut and weld it to a length of steel.


OR, if the tranny is off (variation of above advice) get a piece of steel 1/8"+ thick maybe 1+" wide and drill two holes in it. Through one hole goes a tranny bolt into the block. Through the other a pressure plate bolt into the flywheel. No need to hold a pickle fork on your flywheel teeth.

Have someone hang onto the motor, get a 1/2" breaker bar and about 3' of pipe. That should make about 4.5' of leverage to get that stuck bolt out.

 

so could i use a 52mm nut in place of a 33mm since my engine is the 88-91 variation?

 

Umm...the 88-91 D16A6? Those crank pulley's don't have the hexagonal broach like the 92+ and B series pulley's do. They have a series of holes instead. I made a tool for those too - just a pipe with some grade 8 bolts welded perpendicular, spaced so they'd fit in 2 holes and still provide access to the crank pulley bolt.

If you are talking about some pulley that you have that does have the hexagonal broach, no, I do mean a 33mm nut. All fasteners are sized according to the diameter of the threads. Rambling on with more fastener education, when I say 33mm, that is actually the size of the hole in the nut. If you measure across the flats, a 33mm nut is 50mm. Kind of like how EVERYONE refers to a 6mm bolt as a 10mm, just because you need a 10mm wrench to tighten/loosen it. If you ask for a 52mm nut, you are going to get one that has flats which measure 80mm across.
BTW, I don't think that there is an ANSI/DIN standard metric nut that measures 52mm. That's why I used a 33mm (50mm across). Closest one available.

 

cool beans, thanks for edjumicatin' me

and it's an 88-91 b16a (JDM)

 

No problemo - sorry if my post started sounding rant-ish. You need a 33mm nut. FYI, same tool works for B18C pulley's, but you've got to offset the nut further from the handle - like weld 2-3 nuts side by side to reach in to the hex broach. 2 nuts if you zip the powersteering belt flange off, 3 if you keep the PS.

Total material cost should be like $5.

 

don't be.........it's good to see people willing to give a detailed explanation as to WHY.......rather than just "do it this way because i said so".