5G H22A4 > H22A Swap Notes v2
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 333
Likes: 0
5G H22A4 > H22A Swap Notes v2
Well,
My H22A4 to JDM H22A swap is officially complete.
It seems to have worked very well.
Thanks to Marcucci, Specialque, Joon525, and a few other folks, things went very smoothly.
The JDM H22A seems to have a little more power in general. It feels like normal acceleration is just a little more smooth across the board, especially in 5th gear.
I did not drastically modify the OEM/stock setup. I did get/do the following:
1) I installed a Hondata thermal insulator gasket between the intake manifold and the block.
Using OTC Monitor 4000 Enhanced I owned at the time, I'd been monitoring the IAT (Intake Air Temperatures) to see what the difference over the stock setup is. Basically, the intake cools down very fast at highway speeds, and slowly at lower speeds. Unlike the stock setup during cold weather, the IAT drops dramatically when the temperature is blow 35F. Otherwise, with the coolant temperature at 195 degrees, the IAT seems to settle out at about 80 degrees almost all the time. I'm looking forward to seeing what the summer temps will show, but so far the difference is always 100F lower than the ECT.
At this point, I can see no reason to purchase an expensive CAI when the Hondata gasket seems to have the same effect without the additional noise.
2) I also installed a lightened flywheel. Specifically, the Fidenza unit. The flywheel makes a dramatic difference in the shifting of the 5G Prelude. It's a day and night difference! Without a doubt the unit makes shifting at high RPMs from 1st - 3rd very smooth and not as notchy as the OEM flywheel. (I haven't tested 4th gear at 7400 or so RPMs, and I'd be going a little fast for the highway in NJ.) I'd recommend this mod to anyone. Keep in mind that I'm using the OEM clutch and pressure plate since there is no need for anything more with my setup.
3) I removed the OEM heat shield from my H22A4 and cleaned up the exhaust header:
High Res Picture of Engine Swap Aftermath
In order to perform this I simply use my air cutoff tool, a stainless steel brush wheel, some high temp low gloss appliance enamel, and black header wrap.
It's purely an aesthetic update, but it seems to work well and give me a little more room in the front of the engine bay.
4) Installed a high strength kevlar timing belt. This should last for at least 100,000 miles.
Now for the specifics...
I used my existing OBD-II OEM setup with the JDM H22A, and did the following:
1) Replaced ALL of the gaskets and seals (except the head gasket) with brand new Honda OEM versions. This was several hundred dollars worth of stuff.
[Main seal, cam seal, cam seals timing side, valve cover seal, spark plug seals, oil pump seals, balancer shaft seals, intake manifold gasket, exhaust manifold gasket, Ex. header/A pipe O-rings, CAT O-ring, etc.]
2) Replaced ALL of the exhaust system nuts (Cat, A Pipe, and Exhaust Header).
3) Replaced the OEM A "flex" pipe with a low mileage one I got for $75.00 from a dude in CA. (Mine had 120k on it and was getting quite worn.)
4) Moved over the following from the old H22A4 motor:
a) Wiring Harness (OBD-II)
b) Distributor
c) Coolant Thermostat Housing
d) Oil Pump Housing
e) Crank Position Sensor and Top Dead Sensor (attached to OBD-II oil pump)
f) Exhaust header (JDM 4th Gen is different)
g) Intake manifold (if not using 5G IM, then move your fuel injectors over and get a 4G MAP sensor)
h) Knock sensor (BE VERY CAREFUL TAKING THIS OFF, THE CONNECTOR BREAKS EASILY)
i) Oil Pressure Sensor
j) Oil Pan & baffle
k) Oil Pan/Transmission Stiffener
l) Various gears from the timing belt side (crank gears especially - required for CKP/TDC sensors)
m) VTEC solenoid pressure switch (the connector seemed to be different on the H22A one?)
Special Notes on the Swap
First, don't bother to put the crank pulley on until you finally get the motor in the car. (There is a special crank pulley holder to retorque the pulley nut, and you should rent / borrow that.) Getting the engine back into the car is tricky and a big pain in the butt due to the tight space. If you are not SUPER careful, you can bang the crank pulley and chip the edges... making it a nice paper weight. They're about $100.00 to replace. If you can get the tool, then wait to put the crank pulley on.
Second, the front engine mount is pretty easy to screw up. After 6 years in operation, mine was somewhat brittle and was damaged when I attempted to reinstall it. So take it easy, or you'll end up ordering one.
Third, it's a lot easier to adjust the valves before you put the engine in...
Who to purchase from?
I got my motor from Zerolift.
While they got the motor out quickly and seems to be genuinely nice people, they've been pretty poor about dealing with damage during shipping.
Zerolift did a VERY VERY poor job of preparing the engine for shipping. They used rope to tie the engine to the shipping palette. This is kinda like using a tissue to mop up an oil tanker spill!
The damage done to the motor was extensive:
- Oil pan has a HUGE dent on it. (They sent me a replacement.)
- Balancer pulley was chipped all over the place.
- Throttle Body was smashed (on both sides!?!) [TPS crushed and the throttle assembly BENT!]
- various sensors snapped (but they warn you about that ahead of time)
Example of Damaged Balancer Pulley & Palette
Example of Damaged Oil Pan
Example of Damaged Palette
Example of TPS Debris (Hummm... How'd that shatter?)
ZeroLift Shipping - THE MOVIE (RIGHT CLICK AND DO A "SAVE AS" PLEASE!)
I've called them many times to ask when I'm going to see a replacement TB and Balancer Pulley, and I get the famous: "We don't have them to give you, let's see what we can come up with?"
Well, at this point I've called them at least 5 times over 3 months... and I'm not seeing the parts they owe me.
At this point, I really think it would be wise to avoid purchasing from them and go with someone like http://www.hmotorsonline.com - There is no doubt that I paid top dollar for crappy shipping and parts that got to me destroyed. It's about $1000.00 worth of damaged parts if you have to go to Honda...
...and so far, while the folks at ZeroLift started out decent, they've clearly decided that this is not their problem now that they've got my money.
Basically I got screwed out of some hundreds of dollars worth of parts...
So, how was the engine?
After all of the shipping damage I was pretty concerned that I had been taken for a ride.
As a double edged sword issue ZeroLift left the engine oil in the H22A during shipping. So the first thing I did was to drain the oil and send a sample out to Blackstone labs in order to determine the state of the engine.
The oil testing told me that there were no excess fuel, coolant, or wear metals present. If fact, to my surprise, the oil was better from a wear metal perspective than my H22A4 was from 60,000 miles on...
I then performed a leak-down test in order to determine if there was a blow-by problem with the motor, and that turned out stellar as well.
When we disassembled the H22A & H22A4 the seals on the H22A4 were hard after 124,000 miles, but the H22A seals were soft and pliable.
This was really interesting and a bit of a surprised, as when I looked up the H22A serial number I found out that the engine came out of a JDM BB1/BB4 Prelude - THAT WAS BUILT IN 1993.
I still wonder just how much mileage is really on this engine... but mechanically, it appears to be pretty sound.
Modified by gerhard at 3:25 PM 3/28/2005
My H22A4 to JDM H22A swap is officially complete.
It seems to have worked very well.
Thanks to Marcucci, Specialque, Joon525, and a few other folks, things went very smoothly.
The JDM H22A seems to have a little more power in general. It feels like normal acceleration is just a little more smooth across the board, especially in 5th gear.
I did not drastically modify the OEM/stock setup. I did get/do the following:
1) I installed a Hondata thermal insulator gasket between the intake manifold and the block.
Using OTC Monitor 4000 Enhanced I owned at the time, I'd been monitoring the IAT (Intake Air Temperatures) to see what the difference over the stock setup is. Basically, the intake cools down very fast at highway speeds, and slowly at lower speeds. Unlike the stock setup during cold weather, the IAT drops dramatically when the temperature is blow 35F. Otherwise, with the coolant temperature at 195 degrees, the IAT seems to settle out at about 80 degrees almost all the time. I'm looking forward to seeing what the summer temps will show, but so far the difference is always 100F lower than the ECT.
At this point, I can see no reason to purchase an expensive CAI when the Hondata gasket seems to have the same effect without the additional noise.
2) I also installed a lightened flywheel. Specifically, the Fidenza unit. The flywheel makes a dramatic difference in the shifting of the 5G Prelude. It's a day and night difference! Without a doubt the unit makes shifting at high RPMs from 1st - 3rd very smooth and not as notchy as the OEM flywheel. (I haven't tested 4th gear at 7400 or so RPMs, and I'd be going a little fast for the highway in NJ.) I'd recommend this mod to anyone. Keep in mind that I'm using the OEM clutch and pressure plate since there is no need for anything more with my setup.
3) I removed the OEM heat shield from my H22A4 and cleaned up the exhaust header:
High Res Picture of Engine Swap Aftermath
In order to perform this I simply use my air cutoff tool, a stainless steel brush wheel, some high temp low gloss appliance enamel, and black header wrap.
It's purely an aesthetic update, but it seems to work well and give me a little more room in the front of the engine bay.
4) Installed a high strength kevlar timing belt. This should last for at least 100,000 miles.
Now for the specifics...
I used my existing OBD-II OEM setup with the JDM H22A, and did the following:
1) Replaced ALL of the gaskets and seals (except the head gasket) with brand new Honda OEM versions. This was several hundred dollars worth of stuff.
[Main seal, cam seal, cam seals timing side, valve cover seal, spark plug seals, oil pump seals, balancer shaft seals, intake manifold gasket, exhaust manifold gasket, Ex. header/A pipe O-rings, CAT O-ring, etc.]
2) Replaced ALL of the exhaust system nuts (Cat, A Pipe, and Exhaust Header).
3) Replaced the OEM A "flex" pipe with a low mileage one I got for $75.00 from a dude in CA. (Mine had 120k on it and was getting quite worn.)
4) Moved over the following from the old H22A4 motor:
a) Wiring Harness (OBD-II)
b) Distributor
c) Coolant Thermostat Housing
d) Oil Pump Housing
e) Crank Position Sensor and Top Dead Sensor (attached to OBD-II oil pump)
f) Exhaust header (JDM 4th Gen is different)
g) Intake manifold (if not using 5G IM, then move your fuel injectors over and get a 4G MAP sensor)
h) Knock sensor (BE VERY CAREFUL TAKING THIS OFF, THE CONNECTOR BREAKS EASILY)
i) Oil Pressure Sensor
j) Oil Pan & baffle
k) Oil Pan/Transmission Stiffener
l) Various gears from the timing belt side (crank gears especially - required for CKP/TDC sensors)
m) VTEC solenoid pressure switch (the connector seemed to be different on the H22A one?)
Special Notes on the Swap
First, don't bother to put the crank pulley on until you finally get the motor in the car. (There is a special crank pulley holder to retorque the pulley nut, and you should rent / borrow that.) Getting the engine back into the car is tricky and a big pain in the butt due to the tight space. If you are not SUPER careful, you can bang the crank pulley and chip the edges... making it a nice paper weight. They're about $100.00 to replace. If you can get the tool, then wait to put the crank pulley on.
Second, the front engine mount is pretty easy to screw up. After 6 years in operation, mine was somewhat brittle and was damaged when I attempted to reinstall it. So take it easy, or you'll end up ordering one.
Third, it's a lot easier to adjust the valves before you put the engine in...
Who to purchase from?
I got my motor from Zerolift.
While they got the motor out quickly and seems to be genuinely nice people, they've been pretty poor about dealing with damage during shipping.
Zerolift did a VERY VERY poor job of preparing the engine for shipping. They used rope to tie the engine to the shipping palette. This is kinda like using a tissue to mop up an oil tanker spill!
The damage done to the motor was extensive:
- Oil pan has a HUGE dent on it. (They sent me a replacement.)
- Balancer pulley was chipped all over the place.
- Throttle Body was smashed (on both sides!?!) [TPS crushed and the throttle assembly BENT!]
- various sensors snapped (but they warn you about that ahead of time)
Example of Damaged Balancer Pulley & Palette
Example of Damaged Oil Pan
Example of Damaged Palette
Example of TPS Debris (Hummm... How'd that shatter?)
ZeroLift Shipping - THE MOVIE (RIGHT CLICK AND DO A "SAVE AS" PLEASE!)
I've called them many times to ask when I'm going to see a replacement TB and Balancer Pulley, and I get the famous: "We don't have them to give you, let's see what we can come up with?"
Well, at this point I've called them at least 5 times over 3 months... and I'm not seeing the parts they owe me.
At this point, I really think it would be wise to avoid purchasing from them and go with someone like http://www.hmotorsonline.com - There is no doubt that I paid top dollar for crappy shipping and parts that got to me destroyed. It's about $1000.00 worth of damaged parts if you have to go to Honda...
...and so far, while the folks at ZeroLift started out decent, they've clearly decided that this is not their problem now that they've got my money.
Basically I got screwed out of some hundreds of dollars worth of parts...
So, how was the engine?
After all of the shipping damage I was pretty concerned that I had been taken for a ride.
As a double edged sword issue ZeroLift left the engine oil in the H22A during shipping. So the first thing I did was to drain the oil and send a sample out to Blackstone labs in order to determine the state of the engine.
The oil testing told me that there were no excess fuel, coolant, or wear metals present. If fact, to my surprise, the oil was better from a wear metal perspective than my H22A4 was from 60,000 miles on...
I then performed a leak-down test in order to determine if there was a blow-by problem with the motor, and that turned out stellar as well.
When we disassembled the H22A & H22A4 the seals on the H22A4 were hard after 124,000 miles, but the H22A seals were soft and pliable.
This was really interesting and a bit of a surprised, as when I looked up the H22A serial number I found out that the engine came out of a JDM BB1/BB4 Prelude - THAT WAS BUILT IN 1993.
I still wonder just how much mileage is really on this engine... but mechanically, it appears to be pretty sound.
Modified by gerhard at 3:25 PM 3/28/2005
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 2,374
Likes: 1
From: East Bay, CA, USA
Re: 5G H22A4 > H22A Swap Notes v2 (gerhard)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gerhard »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Otherwise, with the coolant temperature at 195 degrees, the IAT seems to settle out at about 80 degrees almost all the time. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Dude, coolant bypass :stick:
Dude, coolant bypass :stick:
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 333
Likes: 0
Re: 5G H22A4 > H22A Swap Notes v2 (gerhard)
Ok...ok... I'm working on the coolant by-pass...
I just bought one of these:
http://www.genisysotc.com/
So I think we'll do some before and after testing...
I just bought one of these:
http://www.genisysotc.com/
So I think we'll do some before and after testing...
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 3,969
Likes: 6
From: northern DRUNKit, ma
Re: 5G H22A4 > H22A Swap Notes v2 (gerhard)
sick writ eup, possibiity to link to the first thread as well, there is good info in both, also glad to see you got all the bugs worked out
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 2,374
Likes: 1
From: East Bay, CA, USA
Re: 5G H22A4 > H22A Swap Notes v2 (gerhard)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gerhard »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just bought one of these:
http://www.genisysotc.com/</TD></TR></TABLE>
Holy crap that looks like a nice scan tool.
http://www.genisysotc.com/</TD></TR></TABLE>
Holy crap that looks like a nice scan tool.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 333
Likes: 0
Re: 5G H22A4 > H22A Swap Notes v2 (sharkcohen)
Well, super shark man, the whole kit is like $6000.00...
I opted for the $2400.00 version which literally troubleshoots cars in a step-by-step direction manner.
Unfrotuately, for the Honda, it'll only do OBD-II related diagnositics... not the Honda proprietary stuff.
Still, even if the functions are the same as the OTC Monitor 4000 Enhanced that Joon525 sold me, it'll be more than enough for all of the basic things.
With my wife's Jeep.... That sucker will let you do stuff like change the shift points in the tranmission and such... Cooooool.... eh?
(You get that advanced level with all american cars and Toyota, Nissan, Mazda, etc... Just not Honda/Acura...)
Gerhard
I opted for the $2400.00 version which literally troubleshoots cars in a step-by-step direction manner.
Unfrotuately, for the Honda, it'll only do OBD-II related diagnositics... not the Honda proprietary stuff.
Still, even if the functions are the same as the OTC Monitor 4000 Enhanced that Joon525 sold me, it'll be more than enough for all of the basic things.
With my wife's Jeep.... That sucker will let you do stuff like change the shift points in the tranmission and such... Cooooool.... eh?
(You get that advanced level with all american cars and Toyota, Nissan, Mazda, etc... Just not Honda/Acura...)
Gerhard
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 597
Likes: 1
From: Raleigh, NC, USA
Re: 5G H22A4 > H22A Swap Notes v2 (gerhard)
I just recently went through a swap on my car.
First off, your swap looks good. Glad to see it's running well.
If it makes you feel any better I ordered through Hmotorsonline and had most of the shipping damage you did too. Oil pan and Throttle body were damaged. I tried working it out with Steve and he would only warranty them if I sent them back (not super pleased with this as what was I supposed to do in the mean time?) So I sent them back, and somehow Fedex lost them, so I guess I will never get the parts.
I'm not saying steve wouldn't have taken care of it (had fedex not goofed up on the shipment), but I was a little upset that I had to send parts back to get them warrantied. Anyways, I guess what I'm getting at is I'm sure you'll encounter shipping damages with anyone. I'm sure it's just part of the business.
Finally I've got one question for you.
Are you using the H22A or H22A4 head?
If your using the H22A head how did you mount the coil? I tried ordering the coil brack for a USDM VTEC prelude and it wouldn't bolt to my H22A head. It looks like you have it bolted up right in your pics. How did you do it?
TIA
First off, your swap looks good. Glad to see it's running well.
If it makes you feel any better I ordered through Hmotorsonline and had most of the shipping damage you did too. Oil pan and Throttle body were damaged. I tried working it out with Steve and he would only warranty them if I sent them back (not super pleased with this as what was I supposed to do in the mean time?) So I sent them back, and somehow Fedex lost them, so I guess I will never get the parts.
I'm not saying steve wouldn't have taken care of it (had fedex not goofed up on the shipment), but I was a little upset that I had to send parts back to get them warrantied. Anyways, I guess what I'm getting at is I'm sure you'll encounter shipping damages with anyone. I'm sure it's just part of the business.
Finally I've got one question for you.
Are you using the H22A or H22A4 head?
If your using the H22A head how did you mount the coil? I tried ordering the coil brack for a USDM VTEC prelude and it wouldn't bolt to my H22A head. It looks like you have it bolted up right in your pics. How did you do it?
TIA
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 333
Likes: 0
Re: 5G H22A4 > H22A Swap Notes v2 (95PreludeSi)
95PreludeSi:
Actually, FedEx is responsible for replacing those items... and there is usually a default amount of insurance... like $100.00 or something... But if they lose it, they have to pay you for it, insurance or not!!
I'm using the H22A head... it should have lower milage than my H22A4 head...
I mounted the coil by tapping the upper hole on the thermostat housing.
Keith pointed out that they were not the same while I still had the motor on the engine crane prior to putting it in. So I just attached the proper metric tap to my Dewalt cordless drill... and used the JDM thermostat housing.
Actually, FedEx is responsible for replacing those items... and there is usually a default amount of insurance... like $100.00 or something... But if they lose it, they have to pay you for it, insurance or not!!
I'm using the H22A head... it should have lower milage than my H22A4 head...
I mounted the coil by tapping the upper hole on the thermostat housing.
Keith pointed out that they were not the same while I still had the motor on the engine crane prior to putting it in. So I just attached the proper metric tap to my Dewalt cordless drill... and used the JDM thermostat housing.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 597
Likes: 1
From: Raleigh, NC, USA
Re: 5G H22A4 > H22A Swap Notes v2 (gerhard)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gerhard »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">95PreludeSi:
Actually, FedEx is responsible for replacing those items... and there is usually a default amount of insurance... like $100.00 or something... But if they lose it, they have to pay you for it, insurance or not!!
I'm using the H22A head... it should have lower milage than my H22A4 head...
I mounted the coil by tapping the upper hole on the thermostat housing.
Keith pointed out that they were not the same while I still had the motor on the engine crane prior to putting it in. So I just attached the proper metric tap to my Dewalt cordless drill... and used the JDM thermostat housing.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've filed a claim with Fedex, although not much has come out of it yet. Still looking into it.
Anyways, thanks for the info. I'm using the JDM thermostat housing, so I'll look into it. Thanks
Actually, FedEx is responsible for replacing those items... and there is usually a default amount of insurance... like $100.00 or something... But if they lose it, they have to pay you for it, insurance or not!!
I'm using the H22A head... it should have lower milage than my H22A4 head...
I mounted the coil by tapping the upper hole on the thermostat housing.
Keith pointed out that they were not the same while I still had the motor on the engine crane prior to putting it in. So I just attached the proper metric tap to my Dewalt cordless drill... and used the JDM thermostat housing.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've filed a claim with Fedex, although not much has come out of it yet. Still looking into it.
Anyways, thanks for the info. I'm using the JDM thermostat housing, so I'll look into it. Thanks
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,072
Likes: 0
From: land of the sheep, home of the hypocrite
Re: 5G H22A4 > H22A Swap Notes v2 (95PreludeSi)
Good info. Thanks for posting! The H22A4 oil pan is aluminum, right? Did you put it on with honda bond, or a gasket? What happened to the A4 in the first place? Glad you got it all sorted out...
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 333
Likes: 0
Re: 5G H22A4 > H22A Swap Notes v2 (flyrod)
My H22A4 just saw some nice hard driving from the time I bought it in 1998.
So the rings were worn and I wouldn't be suprised if there was a little egging of the bores.
Honestly, I've taken it appart and a visual inspection doesn't show much at all.
Time for some OS 10.6:1 pistons.
So the rings were worn and I wouldn't be suprised if there was a little egging of the bores.
Honestly, I've taken it appart and a visual inspection doesn't show much at all.
Time for some OS 10.6:1 pistons.
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 2,374
Likes: 1
From: East Bay, CA, USA
Re: 5G H22A4 > H22A Swap Notes v2 (gerhard)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gerhard »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My H22A4 just saw some nice hard driving from the time I bought it in 1998.
So the rings were worn and I wouldn't be suprised if there was a little egging of the bores.
Honestly, I've taken it appart and a visual inspection doesn't show much at all.
Time for some OS 10.6:1 pistons.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No way dude, go Type S 11:1 pistons with the A4
So the rings were worn and I wouldn't be suprised if there was a little egging of the bores.
Honestly, I've taken it appart and a visual inspection doesn't show much at all.
Time for some OS 10.6:1 pistons.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No way dude, go Type S 11:1 pistons with the A4
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: Philadelphia, PA, US
Re: 5G H22A4 > H22A Swap Notes v2 (gerhard)
Since you were monitoring the IAT, I just wanted to know it's location. I believe it is a gray plug right behind the battery going into the intake. If you can verify it's location I would reatly appreciate it. Thanks.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 333
Likes: 0
Re: 5G H22A4 > H22A Swap Notes v2 (sharkcohen)
Shark, the reason I'm thinking 10.6:1 is so that the car doesn't have to worry about using Super quite as much.
Besides... there isn't that much more power with 11:1
Besides... there isn't that much more power with 11:1
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Re: 5G H22A4 > H22A Swap Notes v2
Hey great post! I'm swapping my H22A4 for a H22A and I was wondering if I NEED to change out the oil pan also why is the oil pump housing needing to be swapped also?....just a noob trying to work way above his level lol. car is a 97 prelude sh
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
tegh22
Honda Prelude
2
Oct 14, 2008 12:46 PM
