Okay I bought my civic about a year ago and it ran like ****, 15MPG, idled worth ****, CEL every time I drove, and stuttered on the highway. I thought that it was O2 sensors because I was told it didn’t have any and everything I read point to O2 sensors. I ordered a header, new cat new OEM O2's and it fired great! Sounds great, better than before and the engine has back pressure again because the old cat was an OBX R hollowed out.

It didn’t through a CEL when my mechanic buddy drove it and then when I took it out it did. I revved it up and it didn’t hit VTEC. We checked it out but didn’t have a scanner on hand, when I got it to hit VTEC she blew black smoke like it was before with only 1 O2 sensor, yeah I had one and mechanics were telling me I had none. Its still running the spark plugs when it was running way rich from 1 O2 so I think they might be bad but I have Bosch platinum 4's here along with new OEM disty cap, rotor and NGK wires. My autometer a/f gauge is all over the place from lean to stock to rich its nutty. Heres my question:

What could the code be? We changed the plugs before and it ran better and the CEL did come on as much and it seemed to run better, but they are expensive plugs and I'm running out of cash til the summer.

I'm running an '00 civic si, AEM CAI, DC sports header, JR cat, APEXI full exhaust.
All help is better than what I have now... Thanks everyone

 

try doin the ecu trip wit the wire and see wut the code is

 

say what?!?! do you have a link that will let me how to do it or can you tell me?

 

Holy crap that was alot...anyway. Your car has two O2 sensors. One in front of the cat and one after. You could be running crappy for so many reasons and intell you pull that code you are not going to have a clue. So you could just keep blindly replacing stuff or you could learn how to pull a code. So heres your lesson for the day...also teach this to your "mechanics" which im using very loosely. Remove the passanger side kick panel to expose the ECU. Once you get it off look for a plug that will be in a green rubber boot. That is your service connector. You need to jump this plug. Place a paper clip, wire or damn near anything metal you can get to fit in the plug. After you jump the plug turn the key to the on postion. Now watch for how many blinks the CEL will give off. One long blink equals ten and one short blink equals one. So if it gives you five long blinks and six short blinks that would make the code fifty-six. Have fun.

 

my buddy works a the chevy dealer and did it as a favor, he's very good at what he does and when he said it didnt through a code I trusted him... I have a field VAFC so hopefully with that wiring harness on their I'll beable to get the code pulled.

 

throw*

 

also the people that told me I had now O2 sensors were shops that did work on my car when I didnt have the tools/time, it was the honda dealer that told me first I had no O2's, you should beable to trust them

 

******* A its been a long day and I cant even see the screen anymore... no*

 

Having that controller wired up to your ECU wires will have no effect on you being able to pull the code. And as for you being told by a Honda dealership that you have no O2 sensors on your 00 Si is just crazy. Either they had no clue what you were talking about or they were really really stupid.

 

just for tomorrow where can I find what the codes mean? I'm searching but still nothing...

thanks

 

OBDII codes for the 99-00 si... where are they?

 

here ya go...
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1171263

 

Heres my ECU, which one do I need to jumper... there are two green put only one has something connected. For some reason I dont think this is my stock ECU... can anyone confirm?

 

I bet the ecu is chipped. virgin ones usually don't have writing all over them, especially for where the rev limit is set. If it's chipped you are probably running different fuel maps. If you take the cover off and take a pic, I can tell you if it's chipped or not.

 

heres your pic, the cover says GBR chipped which I would assume is Great Britian. The harness is all hacked to **** and a MAC tools OBDII tool cant read it so I'm fucked right now. MY buddy said get a stock ECU and a new harness, and I think thats my next lead since we cant read the CEL.

 

ANY HELP?

 

yeah, it's chipped and it looks like they didn't use an ic socket, and soldered the chip to the board directly. If you can find the jumper, you can make it run like stock again. Its in the top left corner in the pic. Search this site and you can find more specific info on that. When you chip an ecu, you have to bridge a connection, so if you cut that connection it will revert to stock.

 

The jumper is labeled "J1", it looks like a pice of bare wire connecting two points on the board...

If you cut it, the chip will be disabled...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dkrangers &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">heres your pic, the cover says GBR chipped which I would assume is Great Britian. The harness is all hacked to **** and a MAC tools OBDII tool cant read it so I'm fucked right now. MY buddy said get a stock ECU and a new harness, and I think thats my next lead since we cant read the CEL.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

okay first off, the jumper connector should be near the green cover that is on the right side of the pic that you posted. I believe its a blue connector.

What ECU are you running? From the pic that you posted, it looks like your running an OBD-I ECU because I see the conversion harness. This would explain why an OBD-II reader cant read the code.

Also you dont need another harness, all those wires are connected to your VAFC.

 

Theres alot of blue connectors and I cant find J1, I found J10 but thats about it. I dont know what the ECU is, it was just in the car... the factory harness is all spliced apart and some of the connections are broken... thats why a new harness. I also dont see a bare wire.. where is the part I need to cut? and why do I need to cut it? what will cutting it do?

 

It probably won't look like anything else on the board. It has to be added when you chip an ecu. The location will be the same for any obd1 ecu. When you jump that connection on the board, the ecu looks to the chip for the fuel maps. If those 2 points are not connected then it will automatically run stock fuel and ignition maps without ever looking for a chip.

 

okay... but my car's supposed to run OBDII.... thinking I need to get myself a new ECU and dump this POS, why the hell would you use and OBDI ECU on an OBDII car?!?! and I want that damn VAFC out of my car, its junk anyways

 

http://www.pgmfi.org/twiki/bin...lCase

 

I just located J1 on my own thanks for the link though.... so if my car is OBDII and I cut this its gonna go back to the fuel maps for whatever OBDI car this came from... not totally the best thing for my 00 si now would it be, but I suppose it cant be much worse than whats going no now, maybe I'll get gas milage back? Still think I need to get a stock OBDII si ecu and new harness so my **** aint a hack job.

any comments?

 

OK, first off... like EG6 SiR said...
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that is an OBD1 ECU, you will never get a scan tool to read it.

Please leave the inside of the ECU alone unless you know how to work with electronic equipment. You can mess things up really fast if you're not careful.
what EJ1 wilcox was talking about with J1 is inside the ECU, upper left hand side, just under the larger chip. it's a small silver strand of wire, if you cut it the ECU will go back to it's OEM programming. But since we don't know wich ECU you have that may be a bad thing. What does it say on the side? P??

To pull the codes from this ECU you have to follow this... http://www.c-speedracing.com/faq/06.php