Hey everyone... I'm getting my car back in 5 hours after having a complete rebuild on the H22. It's a 93 prelude and after seeing nearly 180,000 miles the motor went on me so i decided to rebuild it... who knows why. I've always had the mentality of.. "if it breaks... Upgrade!"

well i did and now it's come time for the unveiling. It now has:

Darton M.I.D. sleeve kit bored out to 89mm
Eagle Rods
Wiseco Pistons 11.5:1
new, stock valves
stock springs
Crower titanium retainers
ACT Street/Strip Clutch
ACT Prolite Flywheel
ACT Xtreme Pressure Plate

and all the other typical rebuilt steps. (decked, honed, valve guide replacement, oil pump, water pump.. ect)

I already had an Injen CAI, DC Headers, Vibrant Highflow Cat, Greddy EvoII Cat-Back Exhaust.

So now this is the main question. I've dropped way more cash into this project then what had originally been expected.. but that always happens.

What do I have to get done, if anything as far as tuning? I know I need to get the motor tuned but to what extent? Do I need to buy a VAFC or Hondata? Can it be tuned for the time being without having to buy either of those systems? If it needs one of those systems will it be detrimental for the engine to run without one of those systems for a few months?

I'll take as much information as possible.. Thanks..

 

Are you planning to go N/A....it looks like you are.....but if you are I would hope the e-manage or vafcII would be enough. I'm no expert on this...if you're going forced induction - many say to use the AEM EMS or the Hondata system.

Would the GReddy E-Manage be sufficient tuning a car for N/A?

 

IMO since you only have higher compression and 100cc's more displacement I think that you can break-in the engine with the stock ECU. I would save the nitty gritty tuning for when you get serious cams and a header. The stock ECU will richen up the mixture to account for the extra displacement after a few miles of part throttle driving. Just don't WOT it after the first 15 minutes of driving.

And for the record the stock ECU also runs the engine rich in VTEC.

Pirate

 

ya, i'm definitely sticking with N/A. I know i might get a little greedy in the future and cheat with some nitrous but hey, i have to use the darton sleeves for something. I won't go that route until i had the loot for a direct port and a better management system.

i just dont have the cash for any aftermarket management systems so i'm trying to figure how to scrape by without damaging the engine.

 

You still on stock cams? You can benefit much more from your setup with even a set of Type-S cams!

Source for a 2nd hand VAFC2 or e-manage, dont waste your time and money on fuel pressure regulators. Dont even go into open loop before you get it all sought out on a dyno with wide band tuning. I got smililar setup as yours and I burnt my cometic headgasket due to lean conditions after 8,000miles.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AJBurks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you planning to go N/A....it looks like you are.....but if you are I would hope the e-manage or vafcII would be enough. I'm no expert on this...if you're going forced induction - many say to use the AEM EMS or the Hondata system.

Would the GReddy E-Manage be sufficient tuning a car for N/A?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Both the E-manage and the V-AFC would be the simplest and worst combonations that you could use with the motor. Especially considering that you're coming from an OBDI ECU already setup. With the point and a half higher compression you definately need something to control the ignition timing.

Why are you using titanium retainers? You KNOW they gall quicker than steel and are a maintence item correct? Unless you sanded the edges of those stock springs you're going to have to check for galling on those retainers every 5-10k miles. They weren't designed to be a daily driver piece.

 

I'm trying to find a Hondata system somewhere... maybe even a used one if that is possible.

I ended up using titanium retainers because the engine builder suggested them on the first build the motor went through. I'm not sure if he sanded the edges of the springs or not. I'm not positive how the whole galling of retainers works either but isnt titanium alot stronger then regular steel.

"Crower converted to Ti-17 about two years ago and has seen no wear due to excessive mileage or high rpm's." Thats from the Crower website. There is a possibility that they are recommended for use with their springs but it is not specified as necessary.

I'm thinking I will contact them in the morning to ask if I need to replace the springs, that way i can do so before any damage occurs.

 

Actually Ti is softer than steel when something (the spring/seat) is cutting into it repeatedly. Steel fares much much better in this, which is why you should hope that your builder deburred your springs so that it places the minimal amount of wear on the retainers.

If you're not up for the every valve adjustment (should be done from 7500-15000 miles) checking of each of the retainers I'd probably see if the builder would help you go back to steel. As regardless you're going to need to replace those retainers at 30-50k miles. You really just don't need the Ti in there if you're not revving the engine any higher or have higher than stock valve spring rates.

 

i'll have the retainers changed when i end up getting slapping on some serious cams. That should be relatively soon. I'll be going hondata at the same time so it can be tuned.

if someone throws me a good offer for the engine i'll pay to have it removed from the car for you. I havent even driven the damn thing yet but i want to get into a new car.

thanks for the PMs but I am not parting out the engine. Only selling it as one whole piece to someone with a good offer and doesnt want to wait on having their engine built.

the link below shows all the mods.