Hey H-T

After hours and hours of searching, i come to the great honda-tech for answers. I plan on working on all my suspension components in a week and a half now that winter is over. I pieced everything together since beginning of last summer and now it the time.

The Car: Stock 92 hatch

Heres the goodies:

Koni Yellows
Eibach Sportlines
Skunk2 front camber kit
Neuspeed front strut bar
Neuspeed front and rear lower tie bars
Megan Racing rear strut bar
Megan Racing LCAs
94 GSR 14mm rear sway bar
Energy Suspension bushings

Heres the long list of questions I have:

1. With the eibach sportlines, will the front or rear of the car be higher? Ive read both. The front will be higher if they are integra rated and vise versa.

2. Will my skunk2 camber kit be hitting the top of my strut tower? Someone just recently posted this topic here. I know my drop isnt much so im hoping not but do all camber kits cause this?

3. Do I cut my bump stops when instuling the shocks? I read i should do it 35mm and keep the fatter part. Then again I read not to cut it at all.

4. Will I tare my rear lower subframe with the gsr sway bar? I read that if it was the ITR or anything like 21-22mm that i would. Am i safe with the 14mm bar?

5. Along with #4, would it be wise to invest in the beaks re-inforcement kit?

6. Will my Energy Suspension Rear trailer arms be too rough for daily driving? Im not really going to auto-x my car, i just want a little better performance then stock and my bushings now are completely done. What would you go with in this situation?

7. Anyone who has delt with Megan Racing, I've heard that their bushing are **** within 6 months or so, is this true? If thats the case, i read that i cant replace them with OEM bushings, could i replace them with ES bushings?

8. How does the rear camber kit work? The one with the washers. Has anyone done a DIY write-up for this? I have not searched yet on this topic but i will within the next day.

9. Would you ditch the Megan LCAs and opt for the gsr LCAs with ES bushings?

10. Is their anything in my list of components you would say NOT to use? I will be getting rid of the Megan Rear Bar b/c its crap but i got it very cheap. Whats your opinions on my list of items?

I know that their is a lot of questions here but i figured ask in 1 post then 10 different ones. All imput is greatly appreciated!!!

Thanks H-T

 

1. The car will sit level, unless you are a stunna and measure ride height with your fingers. Fender to top of tire is not the correct way to measure ride height.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecvoodoo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1. The car will sit level, unless you are a stunna and measure ride height with your fingers. Fender to top of tire is not the correct way to measure ride height.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I knew you would answer that question. Then how do you properly measure ride hight? Your also saying that it will be like stock level, just lower? If you get what i mean.

 

Measure center of hub to fender.

No, they will lower the vehicle.

 

One question down. 9 more to go...

anyone else?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dohcdelsol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2. Will my skunk2 camber kit be hitting the top of my strut tower? Someone just recently posted this topic here. I know my drop isnt much so im hoping not but do all camber kits cause this?</TD></TR></TABLE>

So far I have only heard of the Skunk2 and Omnipower camber kits doing this. My eg hatch with the Omnipower camber kit is not lowered more than 1.50" and I have plenty of room from what I noticed. So it all depends on your drop

 

8 more.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dohcdelsol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
2. Will my skunk2 camber kit be hitting the top of my strut tower? Someone just recently posted this topic here. I know my drop isnt much so im hoping not but do all camber kits cause this?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Also, dont be afraid of a little negative camber up front. As long as you get an alignment and have your toe set to zero, it wont eat your tires up... in fact it will help with cornering to some extent. With -1 or -1.5 degrees of camber up front, you might have a better chance with the camber kit clearing the fender.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dohcdelsol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
3. Do I cut my bump stops when instuling the shocks? I read i should do it 35mm and keep the fatter part. Then again I read not to cut it at all.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

The springs should have a recommendation in the instructions. I think my pro-kits said to cut them and leave about 1" of bump stop in there. If you don't have instructions then Ryan (vtechjudo) should be able to answer that

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dohcdelsol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
4. Will I tare my rear lower subframe with the gsr sway bar? I read that if it was the ITR or anything like 21-22mm that i would. Am i safe with the 14mm bar?

5. Along with #4, would it be wise to invest in the beaks re-inforcement kit?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I wouldn't think that a 14mm bar would be an issue. The Si's had a stock bar, but I don't know what the diameter was. I'm sure you would be ok without the beaks kit, but if it makes you feel better by all means buy it. It's cheap insurance, and if you decide to upgrade the bar later you already have a kit.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dohcdelsol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
8. How does the rear camber kit work? The one with the washers. Has anyone done a DIY write-up for this? I have not searched yet on this topic but i will within the next day.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

You just put the washers between the upper control arm and the body. It's not an accurate setting, but it will take a certain amount of camber out of the rear.

My only other advice is to get an alignment right away.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nonsense &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I wouldn't think that a 14mm bar would be an issue. The Si's had a stock bar, but I don't know what the diameter was. I'm sure you would be ok without the beaks kit, but if it makes you feel better by all means buy it. It's cheap insurance, and if you decide to upgrade the bar later you already have a kit.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have a 92 si and it did not come with a stock rear sway bar. It does have a front though.

Thanks

4 more to go.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dohcdelsol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
6. Will my Energy Suspension Rear trailer arms be too rough for daily driving? Im not really going to auto-x my car, i just want a little better performance then stock and my bushings now are completely done. What would you go with in this situation?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

The biggest complaints about ES rear trailing-arm bushings you'll hear is from autocrossers and road-racers who've tried them, and found that they did not offer enough flexibility in extreme turning. A daily driver probably wouldnt notice a difference, and they sure do cost alot less. They do not directly bear a load, so I bet they would have little effect on harshness compared to other important bushings, such as:


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dohcdelsol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
7. Anyone who has delt with Megan Racing, I've heard that their bushing are **** within 6 months or so, is this true? If thats the case, i read that i cant replace them with OEM bushings, could i replace them with ES bushings?

9. Would you ditch the Megan LCAs and opt for the gsr LCAs with ES bushings?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

So you already have the LCAs? Do you still have your stock ones? Ideally, the best ride and EXCELLENT handling would come from 92 Si LCAs with new Honda bushings pressed in. Stick with whatever it is you have until you can find the stock setup...its really perfect for the car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fireant &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
So you already have the LCAs? Do you still have your stock ones? Ideally, the best ride and EXCELLENT handling would come from 92 Si LCAs with new Honda bushings pressed in. Stick with whatever it is you have until you can find the stock setup...its really perfect for the car.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

If i stick with my stock LCAs i cant run a rear sway bar. Their is not hole in the LCAs for that. Would it be wise to go with gsr lcas with the es bushings? That i can do.

 

The GSR sway bar will be nice to have. If you can afford to pay the extra for them, rubber bushings are noticeably more comfy for a daily driver on the GSR LCAs... I had no idea that eh EG Si did not have a rear sway.