Skunk2 Stage2 OR Skunk2 Pro1
Both are designed to be run at that comp level or higher. The pro 1 is basically an enhanced version of the current stage 2 design with better low end and similar but better top end. Similar power output but better power throughout.
yeah they are a breed of skunk2 technology with a litte bc3+ influence. from what ive seem they seem to be very responsive and have nice midrange and torque.
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I would just ask for the cam specs, so you know what your using.
These are the Hi Lobe specs:
Not trying to start an internet rumor, but
Buddy Club 4 AND Skunk2 Stage 2
(Hi lobe)
IN:
Duration: 266 deg @ 1mm, 12.3mm Lift
Opening@1mm: 37 BTDC
Closing@1mm: 49 ABDC
Lobe Centerline: 96 deg
EX:
Duration: 262 deg @ 1mm, 11.8mm Lift
Opening@1mm: 61 BBDC
Closing@1mm: 21 ATDC
Lobe Centerline: 110 deg
what are the skunk pro1 specs?
These are the Hi Lobe specs:
Not trying to start an internet rumor, but
Buddy Club 4 AND Skunk2 Stage 2
(Hi lobe)
IN:
Duration: 266 deg @ 1mm, 12.3mm Lift
Opening@1mm: 37 BTDC
Closing@1mm: 49 ABDC
Lobe Centerline: 96 deg
EX:
Duration: 262 deg @ 1mm, 11.8mm Lift
Opening@1mm: 61 BBDC
Closing@1mm: 21 ATDC
Lobe Centerline: 110 deg
what are the skunk pro1 specs?
i was am looking into getting the pro 1s but ive heard bad things about them like lobes chipping off. anyone else hear anything simular.
a friend of mine went to a car show and talked to the people from skunk2 at their booth he asked about all the new redesigning of their parts, they told him that it was more of and advertising fling than anything else.
a friend of mine went to a car show and talked to the people from skunk2 at their booth he asked about all the new redesigning of their parts, they told him that it was more of and advertising fling than anything else.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTEC Visions »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">PRO 1+ Cam Specs:
Intake
264 / 12.6 @ 1mm
Exhaust
264 / 11.9 @ 1mm </TD></TR></TABLE>
hot damn 12.6 lift. that's more than toda c's. dayam.
Intake
264 / 12.6 @ 1mm
Exhaust
264 / 11.9 @ 1mm </TD></TR></TABLE>
hot damn 12.6 lift. that's more than toda c's. dayam.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTEC Visions »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">PRO 1+ Cam Specs:
Intake
264 / 12.6 @ 1mm
Exhaust
264 / 11.9 @ 1mm
</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's different specs everywhere i look.
last time i looked i saw this for Skunk PRO 1's:
Skunk2 Pro1
IN:
Duration 257 deg @1mm, (.494”) 12.5mm lift
Opening@1mm: ?? degress BTDC
Closing@1mm: ?? degress ABDC
LOBE CENTER at ?? deg
EX:
Duration 259 deg @ 1mm, (.466”) 11.8mm lift
Opening@1mm: ?? degress BBDC
Closing@1mm: ?? degrees ATDC
LOBE CENTER at ?? deg
All you need is just one of the openings or closings at 1mm for intake and exhaust and calculate the rest of course. Those are some pretty steep ramp angles.
Intake
264 / 12.6 @ 1mm
Exhaust
264 / 11.9 @ 1mm
</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's different specs everywhere i look.
last time i looked i saw this for Skunk PRO 1's:
Skunk2 Pro1
IN:
Duration 257 deg @1mm, (.494”) 12.5mm lift
Opening@1mm: ?? degress BTDC
Closing@1mm: ?? degress ABDC
LOBE CENTER at ?? deg
EX:
Duration 259 deg @ 1mm, (.466”) 11.8mm lift
Opening@1mm: ?? degress BBDC
Closing@1mm: ?? degrees ATDC
LOBE CENTER at ?? deg
All you need is just one of the openings or closings at 1mm for intake and exhaust and calculate the rest of course. Those are some pretty steep ramp angles.
As I have dynoed both I would go Pro1 all the way. Jersey is correct on duration I ran them @ 26/51 In. 52/27 Ex. The only cams to make more power were Sk Stg.3 and that was from 8200 up the pro1's made 10 more @ 5000, 7 @ 6000, 5 @7000, and some custom race cams. The ones I ran still look new and un-run and the quality looks better than most.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DonF »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As I have dynoed both I would go Pro1 all the way. Jersey is correct on duration I ran them @ 26/51 In. 52/27 Ex. The only cams to make more power were Sk Stg.3 and that was from 8200 up the pro1's made 10 more @ 5000, 7 @ 6000, 5 @7000, and some custom race cams. The ones I ran still look new and un-run and the quality looks better than most. </TD></TR></TABLE>
with steep ramp angles and all that lift, would this be wise on a daily driver? good info about the quality, i was wondering about that.
with steep ramp angles and all that lift, would this be wise on a daily driver? good info about the quality, i was wondering about that.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DonF »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As I have dynoed both I would go Pro1 all the way. Jersey is correct on duration I ran them @ 26/51 In. 52/27 Ex. The only cams to make more power were Sk Stg.3 and that was from 8200 up the pro1's made 10 more @ 5000, 7 @ 6000, 5 @7000, and some custom race cams. The ones I ran still look new and un-run and the quality looks better than most. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks for the confirmation and valve timing events.
Are those the manufacturer specs or you degreed them like that?
int opening at 26 degress BTDC
int closing at 51 degress ABDC
exh opening at 52 degress BBDC
exh closing at 27 degrees ATDC
You ran the Centerlines at:
int: 102.5 ATDC
exh: 102.5 BTDC
Similar duration as the Toda Cs but the exhaust max lift is much less of course.
I sold my Toda Bs and want to pick up a set of BC4's for my 12.5 compression 2020 cc build with .5 oversized valves.
I'm still keeping my eye on the PRO 1's.
Thanks for the confirmation and valve timing events.
Are those the manufacturer specs or you degreed them like that?
int opening at 26 degress BTDC
int closing at 51 degress ABDC
exh opening at 52 degress BBDC
exh closing at 27 degrees ATDC
You ran the Centerlines at:
int: 102.5 ATDC
exh: 102.5 BTDC
Similar duration as the Toda Cs but the exhaust max lift is much less of course.
I sold my Toda Bs and want to pick up a set of BC4's for my 12.5 compression 2020 cc build with .5 oversized valves.
I'm still keeping my eye on the PRO 1's.
It is not that steep a ramp angle. Duration #'s the BC4's have 152/151 duration @.300 the Pro1's 151/146 @.300 and stg3 197/152 @ .300. BC4's 105/93 @.400 Stg.3's 105/93 @.400 and the Pro1's 101/91. Hope that helps, also tells you wherethe SK3's are big.
Jersey I allways start at 102 centerlines unless the mfg. has better ideas, I then adjust accordingly on the dyno, I prob. ended up with 100/102 will have to look it up.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DonF »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Jersey I allways start at 102 centerlines unless the mfg. has better ideas, I then adjust accordingly on the dyno, I prob. ended up with 100/102 will have to look it up.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks again for the numbers.
so you probably ended up with 100/102 like you said? was that (+2, 0)?
I'm just amazed by the research in all the new cams out now. I don't see too much cam degreeing needed for the most area under the curve. Correct me if im wrong though.
thanks again for the numbers.
so you probably ended up with 100/102 like you said? was that (+2, 0)?
I'm just amazed by the research in all the new cams out now. I don't see too much cam degreeing needed for the most area under the curve. Correct me if im wrong though.
I usually shoot for area under the curve, if I just wanted a big number I would have widened the centerlines. Do not know where it was on the pulleys as 102/102 is never 0 onthe pulleys, and depending whose pulleys they are the numbers are always diff. plus if you have machined the block or head they are diff.
i just assumed you were using 3 layer gasket and no mill. You can always pick up some peak numbers, but yeah, most of us aim for the most average hp.
Yes I usally use a 3layer, but with crank gear- keyway play, and cam gear-keyway play 0 is not 0. Cam gears and crank gears can up with +3-to-3degrees. That is why I degree in engines I build.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DonF »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes I usally use a 3layer, but with crank gear- keyway play, and cam gear-keyway play 0 is not 0. Cam gears and crank gears can up with +3-to-3degrees. That is why I degree in engines I build.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i hear ya, even +3, -3 in crank degrees?
i hear ya, even +3, -3 in crank degrees?
Yes, in stuff that has to be stock you can move one way or the other, torque it and adjusting the cam timing, 0 on your pulleys may not be the same as 0 on stock, or my GE pulleys, degreeing is the only way to know. Going back to the orig. thread get the Pro1's best street cam at the moment, and you will need a spring update.



