i just installed my ne dohc zc and its not getting any spark. i have check all the wiring multiple times and i am sure its 100% complete. al lgrounds are hooked up in correct spots and all wire is done correct. the engine is getting fuel, and the starter is fine. the engine cranks and attempts to start but never does. i check to see if i was getting spark and there was non. i have replaced the rotor, ignighter and the coil. still no spark the cap looks brand new as do the wires. people told me to check my timing. i thought if the timing was off it would just ru ruff for a sec or two then die. besides im not getting any spark so the timing isnt a problem at the moment. can anyone help me. i need this car to run ASAP!!!

 

check to see if the rotor button has come loose, and if it has make sure that you bolt it on in the right way. If you are not sure then just unbolt it and turn it 180 deg. then bolt it back up. I seen this done in the past, because the dizzy is tapped all the way though the shaft. Make sure your timing belt is exactly in time. Then take the cap off and make sure that your no. 1 wire is where the rotor button will be at to spark through the cap. 1-3-4-2, 1 being at the crank, 4 being closest to the dizzy. Is your dizzy plugged in? (I've done that before, and felt like an *** when my bro in law drove 1 1/2 hours to help me. I got excited and forgot.) If your timing was out it would not spark, as for the crank angle sensor, tells when to fuel and when to spark.

 

bump

 

throwing any codes? was the car having problems before motor swap?

 

actually i was worried about this. when i try to start it or just turn the key to on and the lights trun on, i dont see any codes get thrown on the ecu(PM7 ecu) i was wondering if it could be bad i dont think it would be how could i check it? and could i try to start the car with my stock hf ecu just to see if it would start. and no my car didnt have anyproblems before swap

 

when you turn to te on position, the check engine should come on for a second then shut off, or at least come on and stay on. Either will indicate that your ecu is working. The ECU should flash once, but I'm not 100% sure on that one. A constant light on the ECU indicates a bad ECU. The HF should work but I think it would run like ****.

I just got done with my dohc zc swap this weekend, and I believe my friend had to change two wires around in the 5 pin plug on the distributor or something because I was also not getting spark. I will have to get back to you on that.

That was my experience at least.

edit: there's his input vvvvvvvv


Modified by 31flavorscivic at 1:03 AM 3/22/2005

 

<U>ECU:</U>
If you aren't sure if your ecu is working. try this:
Unplug the large round plug under the hood on passenger side(attached to the strut tower). Turn on car / Start car. you SHOULD throw check engine. If not plug it back in and start unplugging a few censors(distributor, IAT, etc etc). Then turn the car to the on position / Start car. This USUALLY sets it off.

<U>Distributor:</U>
Rotor?
Have you checked if the rotor rotates? if you don't know what to do. there are 3 10mm bolts on the cap(the black thing you plug your wires into). remove wires and remove these three bolts. then try crank the motor (unplug distributor for safty) and have a friend watch to see if it rotates. if it is not rotating you have an issue...

Wiring?
There are two white wires on the 5 wire plug(with 6 hole sin it... rectangle shapped) that get put in backwords all the time. one is on the side with 3 wires. the other is kitty corner to it on side with 2 wires. Swap these and then see if it cranks.

Spark plug wires?
I don't remember the ohm reading on wires for testing, chiltens / honda manual has testing infomration. i have always just taken a multi meter to each end and checked for continuity.
(just checked honda manual.)
it Says ressist 25,000ohm's @ 70f. if you go over 25kohm by much try replacing wires. or ****** them off your old motor(even if they are too tall just use to see if it starts).

<U>Number 1 Cyl Position:</U>
You do not need this to run on most obd0 engines/ecu's, at least on the few i have done. Your car will run poorly if this is unplugged but it will start.

<U>Ignition Timing:</U>
Your car will crank and start up if yoru ignition timing is off. It will run pretty bad if you are far off. Ask 31 flavor how his ran (BAM). Get it fixed asap (lol).

Tried to be as descriptive as i could, good luck :D post your solution when you figure it out : )