I need to consult the All Motor crew. I have a 98 Civic Coupe with JDM ITR motor and tranny. I have $1500 to spend, and here are my two options:

1) A close friend of mine has a 1995 Civic hb that he is willing to sell me for $1000-$1500. It is a high mileage car, but in very clean shape. I could pull my motor/trans out of my ek, put it in the eg, and call it a day. I have about 125lbs of stereo equipment in the ek, so that weight loss would be in addition to the weight loss between the two cars. Any idea on the weight difference?

2) I could spend the $$ on BC3+ camshafts, skunk2 cam gears, springs, retainers, RC310's, and Hondata S100. That would hopefully gain me a minimum of 15hp and 10tq at the tires. I have 169hp and 120tq right now.

I would gain a little hp right off the bat with the eg even though I would not be modding the engine further because the eg does not have power steering and the ek does. Big deal, it would be like 2hp, but every little bit counts.

I would drive the car daily and want it to last as long as possible. I like the car to be fast and of course handle well, brake well, look good, and be friendly to drive. Let me know which avenue you guys think I should go in. The ek has leather interior, cf hood, nice stereo, nice wheels, full suspension, and brake upgrades so I would need to spend some money on the eg to get it in the same league as the ek from a comfort, appearance, and chassis performance standpoint. I could always put a stock D16y8 back in the ek, sell it, and spend the money on the eg. Anyways, I have talked enough. Give me your input.

 

I think if you are honestly looking to go fast without tons of weight reduction you will have much better results with the eg hatch. I could be wrong but im sure there is a big difference in weight. Correct me if im wrong but an eg hatch is damn near the same weight of a crx. (obviously there are heavyer and lighter models of both).......You would also be running obd1 which has much better tuning programs available for free, Uberdata being a very nice one. The ek would have a higher value if sold so why not have a lighter car, and then however much you get from your ek to spend on that???? just my $.02, hope it helps

 

get the eg

 

Thanks guys. Keep the feedback coming.

 

thats a no brainer, weight reduction.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1 2 NV &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats a no brainer, weight reduction.</TD></TR></TABLE>

no more info needed

 

Making more power only really benefits one performance aspect of the car, acceleration. Reducing weight benefits all performance aspects of the car, acceleration, braking, handling, etc.

 

It is a no brainer a lighter car = more potential HOWEVER... Not all of us being made of green you wanna make sure you have another motor lined up for the coupe for re-sale/daily driver and then turn the hatch into a demon!

 

buy the eg
swap parts over
sell the ek with the eg motor
buy the new motor parts
drive fast

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RPRacing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">buy the eg
swap parts over
sell the ek with the eg motor
buy the new motor parts
drive fast</TD></TR></TABLE>

sounds like a plan

 

Ok guys, it sounds like the eg is the unanimous recommendation. Tell me if you like these logistics:

Outgoing funds -
EG: $1000
Labor to swap both engines and swap brakes between cars: $1000
Misc hardware for install: $250
Exhaust for EG (evo2): $500
Rota wheels 16' and ES100s: $800
Tein SS coilovers: $900
Gauge cluster w/ tach: $250
30k mile old D16y8 for ek: $800
Total expense: $5500

Incoming funds -
Sell EK with 30k old D16y8: $5500
Sell D16z6 from eg: $400
Total income: $5900

I don't want to put the Eg engine back in the Ek because the Ek is a 98 civic ex which came with the sohc vtec engine. I think I would get shafted on the resale of the car without the D16y8. The ek has a rear disc conversion as well as upgraded rotors, pads, and ss brake lines which I would bring over to the eg if they are interchangable.

Let me know what you guys think of that setup as well as proposed logistics. Please also give me feedback on how an eg with ITR motor/trans, 4 wheel disc, Tein SS coilovers, and good tires would feel on the road. Please give me recommedations for parts for the eg if you prefer other components than the ones I have proposed. Thanks for all the feedback guys!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Viper8L488 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I need to consult the All Motor crew. I have a 98 Civic Coupe with JDM ITR motor and tranny. I have $1500 to spend, and here are my two options:

1) A close friend of mine has a 1995 Civic hb that he is willing to sell me for $1000-$1500. It is a high mileage car, but in very clean shape. I could pull my motor/trans out of my ek, put it in the eg, and call it a day. I have about 125lbs of stereo equipment in the ek, so that weight loss would be in addition to the weight loss between the two cars. Any idea on the weight difference?

2) I could spend the $$ on BC3+ camshafts, skunk2 cam gears, springs, retainers, RC310's, and Hondata S100. That would hopefully gain me a minimum of 15hp and 10tq at the tires. I have 169hp and 120tq right now.

I would gain a little hp right off the bat with the eg even though I would not be modding the engine further because the eg does not have power steering and the ek does. Big deal, it would be like 2hp, but every little bit counts.

I would drive the car daily and want it to last as long as possible. I like the car to be fast and of course handle well, brake well, look good, and be friendly to drive. Let me know which avenue you guys think I should go in. The ek has leather interior, cf hood, nice stereo, nice wheels, full suspension, and brake upgrades so I would need to spend some money on the eg to get it in the same league as the ek from a comfort, appearance, and chassis performance standpoint. I could always put a stock D16y8 back in the ek, sell it, and spend the money on the eg. Anyways, I have talked enough. Give me your input.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Buy the hatch, do the swap. You will be faster.

If it is any consolation. I have a 99 ex coupe w/ a jdm h22 swap in it. I am buying and eg soon to swap it into it. I will easily drop .5 second off of my ets.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DarkKnight1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Buy the hatch, do the swap. You will be faster.

If it is any consolation. I have a 99 ex coupe w/ a jdm h22 swap in it. I am buying and eg soon to swap it into it. I will easily drop .5 second off of my ets.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What are your ets in the coupe with the H22a? 60ft? mph? Thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Viper8L488 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What are your ets in the coupe with the H22a? 60ft? mph? Thanks </TD></TR></TABLE>

It is boltons w/ an uberdata street tune.

Average low 2.2 60'
best et is 14.08
best trap is 99.54mph
full weight is around 2750.

I figure with even a heavy hatch I'll drop around 3-400lbs in weight and be 13.5-13.8 range.

 

Buy the HB. Consider this: Hondas tend to be displacement limited. So torque is always a concern. Trying to get more displacement (and torque) from any Honda motor is an expensive affair. But you can get the same effect MUCH more cheaply by just getting a lighter car. Oh, and you also get the effect of additional power from weight reduction.