What is the limit on streetable hp? The point where traction ends? I have a b18c im building and I am afraid if I build it to take 30psi of boost, I will just spin tires unless i'm on slicks. I'd love to hear from 300+ hp turbo Civic and Integra owners. Also, what else can you do to get max traction on the street?
Thanks, Please reply soon, as I'm ready to go to the machine shop!

 

your going to be boosing 30 psi? u'll spin all day with that. im not turbo so i cant say for sure, but i'd think after 300-350whp traction would start to be a problem.

 

humm....30psi. race gas??? you consider that street?

 

Yeah, I have a race track close to the house, they have good gas. No emissions in Florida.

 

wait, are you going to build a race car or a street car. you can get traction with any psi. you just need to know how to work the throttle. But i don't think you know what your getting yourself into at 30 psi. I would say to learn in the f.i. forum what your going to need to do. And you better have a spare car.

 

Why are all the retards from FL? e-mail me and I'll help you out Punkinterviews@aol.com

I have the parts and the shop to put you over 300 at the wheels and the parts to make the traction for that kind of power!

 

I have 4 cars..thanks!

 

So, you call me a retard then tell me to go to your shop? I don't need help making power, or building the engine, or doing a turbo.

So what's the answer?

I am planning LSD and maybe some street slicks. I don't plan on driving this car around town too much, but I do want the ability. I understand drivability decreases with higher hp #s, so I'm looking to do a setup that will just hit the limits of street traction at lower psi and up the boost for the track with slicks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tamparacer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So, you call me a retard then tell me to go to your shop? I don't need help making power, or building the engine, or doing a turbo.

So what's the answer?</TD></TR></TABLE>

well, then why do you need h-t's help? just ask whoevers doing it for you.

 

I didn't ask "who has a shop in Tampa" Or how do i make my car fast. I'm looking for an intellegent answer like this from another guy on another site.

Is this going to be a daily driver? I don't own a 300+whp Civic, but I have been in one before and let me just say that 300+whp in a Civic is just insane based upon sitting in my friends 2000 Civic LS swapped making 300whp on a stock block with a GSR tranny. No traction at all until midway of 3rd gear. I'd say if this is going to be a daily driver, shoot no more than 350whp and be sure to invest in proper suspension, tires, hell even LSD at that point as traction will be a problem.

 

so your question is what exactly?

 

What amount of turbo horsepower can a civic or teg put to the ground on the best suspension/tire/lsd setup? And what mods besides those can you do to increase traction?

turbo will be a hybrid...
either a
compressor trim/housing t350, 76 trim
t3:082 exhaust housing.
strong boost onset for that combo is 4500-6000 rpm
or
compressor trim/housing t04e 60 trim 0.60housing
t3:0.82 exhaust housing.
strong boost onset at 3500-4500

on a b18c
in a 98 civic hb 2100#s

 

a good friend of mine drove his 500whp integra to and from work everyday for almost a year. this car had no traction on the street, but was one hell of a ride! it was driven everyday on c16 race gas. not very practical at all, which is why he ended up stocking it out and building a full race car. i was running about 330whp on the bottle and traction was almost non-existant. i would not go over 300whp. good luck with it. whether traction is there or not, it'll still gonna be fun to drive!

 

With the assumption of aftermarket EMS, I'd go with 2 setups. One of our guys uses Hondata and has 2 chips burned and a boost controller.

One for C16 gas, ~22psi - 430 WHP using slicks (track only) and one for 94 octane daily driving @ ~13-15psi - 330 WHP running Z tires, he's quite happy with it.


Modified by simon98h22 at 7:21 PM 3/21/2005

 

half you guys sound like idiots. 30 psi to make 300 WHP?

300 WHP being a huge traction problem? yeah maybe 1st and 2nd.

You guys have never seen Jeff Evans EG hatch?

I mean I know I was only running between 7-10 psi so thats maybe 200-225 WHP... but its not THAT crazy. I would sometimes lose traction the top of 2nd at full boost, but never 3rd or other gears. With a b18c and a decent turbo, you could probably make 300 WHP at 13-15 psi

The turbo I have, I know a guy with a B16a that made 314WHP at 14.5 psi With a t3/t4

 

my personal opinion anything over 300 hp in a "street" civic or teggy is too much....

 

Um . . . yeah . . . about this . . .


30psi &gt; 300whp

If you only want 300 to the wheels, then its possible to make that with 12-15lbs of boost, tuned nicely of course.

If your building for 30psi, which is ridiculous unless your planning on a race car, be looking for a lot higher numbers assuming the person that's doing all this work knows the dealio, and can tune nicely.

Theres a built GSR around here with 22lbs making over 400hp to the wheels and he spins all the way down the track on 16's, but not sure about his tires . . . . Hmmmmmm

 

500 on the street isnt streetable!

How do you put that power to the ground?

275-50-15 MT street cheater's; Traction bars; LSD; Hasport Mount (race only or extreme race) and one HELL of a suspension. This wont put the power to the ground however you shoudl atleast grab traction some where between 4th or 5th LOL.

I have Titanium Traction bars for sale if needed, I also have a wholesale account with HAsport and M&H is you need mounts and or tires.

I'm SC'd and make 3 @ the wheels and dont grab traction till mid 4th, with HAsport Race only mounts, Traction bars and a Quaife LSD...OEM suspension at the time which I have just switched out to the Sustec/Tanabe SS Pro's

If you need part locally please feel free to PM me or e-mail!

 

I think the answer to my question is 300hp.I want to use a boost controller, run on the street with 300hp, and turn up the boost with huge slicks on the track.
I know that 30psi is a lot, and I know it doesn't take 30 psi to make 300 hp. If you re-read I never said that.
This is not daily driver, and it's not a race car. I want a car I can drive to a track 300 miles away, once in a while, and hit the local track weekly, in a really fast non-trailer queen that won't need a rebuild after every trip to the track.

 

This is all relative to how well of a driver you are and it appears that all these young kids that come on here asking if they should boost their GS-R's and LS's simply need to shut the **** up here.

If you know anything about throttle modulation, your car can be a 1000hp if you wanted. If you lace into the throttle, of coarse your going to spin tires. Any idiot knows this.

Currently my block is at AEBS with specific instructions to make it handle UP TO 25lbs of boost. Will I run it this high? Probably not, though my goal which is easily attainable, is to have my Type R around 450+whp on pump gas. Is this too much for the street? Who knows. Who the **** are these people to tell you any different? Bottom line. You are paying for it, so do what you want

I have full-race traction bars, LSD, coil-overs... though if you plan on doing some hard launches with slicks you may want to invest in some aftermarket axles.

If you want to boost 30, then do it. Don't let these people tell you any different. Though race gas will get pretty expensive after a while.... You may also have better luck in the Forced Induction section.

Good luck bro and post pics and time slips when it's all said and done.

Aloha,
Brandon

 

I was planning AEBS Sleeves, eagle rods, je pistons, ITR LSD, Hondata, headwork, cams, 5angle,port/polish, retainers, springs, valves, and turbo listed above. I have neuspeed Race springs, and tokico shocks, which I plan on upgrading. I'm sure the list is incomplete, but I'd be doing it right. I just need to know, when does it, if ever, become a headache to drive a couple hundres miles?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tamparacer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was planning AEBS Sleeves, eagle rods, je pistons, ITR LSD, Hondata, headwork, cams, 5angle,port/polish, retainers, springs, valves, and turbo listed above. I have neuspeed Race springs, and tokico shocks, which I plan on upgrading. I'm sure the list is incomplete, but I'd be doing it right. I just need to know, when does it, if ever, become a headache to drive a couple hundres miles?</TD></TR></TABLE>


First off you started all wrong and for "knowing it all" you sure do use some shitty parts!

Benson or Golden Eagle HD sleeves, Crower rods, CP Pistons, Quaife LSD.......with the parts I just list 500 WHP is reachable a little safer if you ask me! With the stuff you listed you'd need to rebuild it every trip to the track and I hope you driving to West Palm if your going 300 miles!!! And thats a round trip, cause Bradenton isnt that far from Tampa! I honestly think if your going to even try to cheap out on 500 at the wheels, you better save ALOT of money!

 

ask OaksRacing. he has a 788 whp prelude.

 

Was talking to a guy yesterday who ran a fully built GSR on 30# at 500+ WHP. He said it was barely drivable street. If he dropped a gear at 70MPH on the highway, the wheels would spin even on drag radials. I'm not sure about 300+HP, but why not turn down the boost for daily and turn it up for race?

 

It's a FWD car. Have you ever been in a &gt;300whp fwd car? I've been in a turbo integra pushing 400whp, and it's scary to drive because you can lose traction SO easy. Which is bad because your drive wheels are your steering wheels too. IMO get something rwd if you want to push that kind of power.