Tonight @ries and I pulled the valve covers off of my engines to swap some various parts. I noticed quite a difference in coloring and wear of the parts.

This engine was run on synthetic blend for the first 50k of its life, then switched to Mobil 1 full synthetic and FRAM Ultra Gaurd filters for the last 26k. please take into account that this engine has been sitting for 5 months and was drained. however there is NO gunk or buildup on the head or valve cover at all.



this was taken at apx. 50k


This engine came out of an SS at 21k and was fed conventional oil its entire life. when I put it into my car I gave it Castrol GTX and use Hamp filters. Notice the more orange coloring and the gunk and build up.




Because of this, we put the valve cover from the SH on and I will be switching back to Mobil 1 fully synthetic.

 

cool comparison

i knew there was a reason i always thought Mobil 1 synthetic was the best.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AzCivic1.6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cool comparison

i knew there was a reason i always thought Mobil 1 synthetic was the best.</TD></TR></TABLE>

royal purple is better, but at $6+ a quart its not worth it for a daily driver IMHO

 

cool deal shakes, i know what oil i'm gonna go with now

 

mobil 1 till the day i die!

 

Mugen Oil 5w20 & Mugen filter

 

amsoil

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DELSOLEMITE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Mugen Oil 5w20 & Mugen filter</TD></TR></TABLE>

we cant all be ballers like you noel

 

we can get a special price on royal purple dougie pooh.

 

That's awesome. I knew switching to synthetic motor oils would be good for my motor.

I run Elf Excellium 5w50 with Mobil 1 oil filters that I buy in Portland when I visit my dad. Plus I change my oil at 8k mile intervals.

 

both those motors are really clean, but yes I have always been a believer in the synthetic oils.. after all thats all they can use in Japan

 

FYI for those who don't know- you're not going to want to switch back and forth between conventional and synthetic...since we're on this subject I figured I'd let everyone know this . Don't skimp out on different oil changes, go over due if you have to until you can afford it, but ****, do not change to conventional because you don't have the money for synthetic. My Mobil 1 oil changes cost me @$25-27 w/ K&N filter at Adavance.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by omgdudewtf &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">FYI for those who don't know- you're not going to want to switch back and forth between conventional and synthetic...since we're on this subject I figured I'd let everyone know this . Don't skimp out on different oil changes, go over due if you have to until you can afford it, but ****, do not change to conventional because you don't have the money for synthetic. My Mobil 1 oil changes cost me @$25-27 w/ K&N filter at Adavance.</TD></TR></TABLE>


that is true. I will be getting an engine flush before i change over just to make sure as much of the conventional is out as possible.

 

Actually that "oil gunk" is just oil. I see little to no buildup in either one of the heads. The one WITH oil might have a little starting to form on the castings on the side of the head, but other than that there's none. Sludge is black thick stuff, which both do not exhibit. One just seems to (as you stated) not to of been run for a long period of time. If you look at the head that hasn't had oil in a long time look around the spark plug holes, apply that color to the rest of the head and you have two identical looking heads.

 

is FEO Honda oil fully synthetic ??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TimeRacer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Actually that "oil gunk" is just oil. I see little to no buildup in either one of the heads. The one WITH oil might have a little starting to form on the castings on the side of the head, but other than that there's none. Sludge is black thick stuff, which both do not exhibit. One just seems to (as you stated) not to of been run for a long period of time. If you look at the head that hasn't had oil in a long time look around the spark plug holes, apply that color to the rest of the head and you have two identical looking heads. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i really should have taken pictures of the underside to the valve covers. the one that i used castrol on was nasty. i scrubbed a lot of gunk from it.

as far as the engine not being run for a while, that is true, but the picture where i am doing a valve adjustment the car had been off for about an hour or so. same time frams as the castrol engine.

dont get me wrong, neither of them are "nasty" persay, but the synthetic engine is much cleaner.

 

Mobil 1 and Honda filters every 2,500 miles keep my engine nice and clean. Mobil 1 is EXCELLENT oil

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM H23A &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Mobil 1 and Honda filters every 2,500 miles keep my engine nice and clean. Mobil 1 is EXCELLENT oil </TD></TR></TABLE>

jeez, what a waste of oil. the manual states oil changes every 7500 and i believe that is for normal conventional oil. i change around the 4500 mile mark. some people i know run nearly 10k on royal purple / redline / or amsoil.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Prelude_2_NV &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I run Elf Excellium 5w50 with Mobil 1 oil filters that I buy in Portland when I visit my dad. Plus I change my oil at 8k mile intervals. </TD></TR></TABLE>

5w50? 50??? im scrared. is anyone else scared?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vinuneuro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">amsoil </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OzWolfbane &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is FEO Honda oil fully synthetic ??</TD></TR></TABLE>

DOnt u guys gave Honda Oil in US ?? anyone knows if its synthetic or not ?

 

nice comparison....thats why it cost more for synthetic....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LuDe4MyDuDE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice comparison....thats why it cost more for synthetic.... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Considering how much one can extend oil changes with synthetic, it's not even that much more expensive...

 

I used to run Castrol GTX in my Supra. Then my wifes father slapped me and handed me a jug of Rotella T 15w-40. Its all natural and has been lab tested in 18 wheelers and held up great in my prelude til around 8 -9 k.

It finally started burning around 10k and bringing around limp mode. Other oils I have used have NEVER lasted that long.

I MIGHT try a synthetic in a few years when I'm out of foreclosure and have money again.

 

you can which back and forth between synthetic and conventional oils all day long if you want to. it wont harm the motor in anyway