jdm b18c need more power
I recently got a eg civic hb with a jdm b18c swap. Its very quick but its basicaly stock. It has a hks drop in filter and straight exhaust. Can i get some feedback on what should be the next mod. I was thinking maybe headers, i dont really know. Ive got about 1000$ right now to spend so i'd like to get the most out of it for now. Thanks
I'd recommend a good intake like an AEM cai or the comptech icebox.... the engine responds very well to them.
Also since you just bought it, do a FULL TUNE UP !!! Changing and gapping a new set of plugs, fresh plug wires (keep it stock), oil change, clean air filter and a properly done valve adjustment will put a smile on your face for well under $500.
That leaves you with at least $500 for used quality intake and a header ! Woo Hoo !
Welcome to the dohc side...lol
**edit... forget the intake/header... get that timing belt checked out and consider putting in a new timing belt and water pump... it'll be under $500, labor inclusive.
Also since you just bought it, do a FULL TUNE UP !!! Changing and gapping a new set of plugs, fresh plug wires (keep it stock), oil change, clean air filter and a properly done valve adjustment will put a smile on your face for well under $500.
That leaves you with at least $500 for used quality intake and a header ! Woo Hoo !
Welcome to the dohc side...lol
**edit... forget the intake/header... get that timing belt checked out and consider putting in a new timing belt and water pump... it'll be under $500, labor inclusive.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaeg8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">CTR intake cam
cai
skunk2 manifold
4-1 header
tires</TD></TR></TABLE>
cai
skunk2 manifold
4-1 header
tires</TD></TR></TABLE>
10 hp....
don't forget to change the cap/rotor in the dizzy...
but yeah, the first things you want to mod up is the air to the motor....intake, header, exhaust, chipped ecu or vafc, greddy bolt on turbo kit, 100 shot of nitrous....heh

don't forget to change the cap/rotor in the dizzy...

but yeah, the first things you want to mod up is the air to the motor....intake, header, exhaust, chipped ecu or vafc, greddy bolt on turbo kit, 100 shot of nitrous....heh
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Yup just do the basic mods I've got a B18C and I have a AEM type r CAI responds really well, get a 4-1 header if you want top end or get a 4-2-1 if you want more mid range power.
Upgrade to a good set of plugs/wires MSD is good stuff. Skunk2 intake mani is good w/ a intake cooling plate hondata/passwordjdm.
Vtec control and tune tha bitch up and kick some ***!
Upgrade to a good set of plugs/wires MSD is good stuff. Skunk2 intake mani is good w/ a intake cooling plate hondata/passwordjdm.
Vtec control and tune tha bitch up and kick some ***!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaeg8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">10.6:1 compression for the jdm gsr motor, i have one.
also, lighten flywheel and b16 tranny. </TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah that's right 10.6:1 compression
also, lighten flywheel and b16 tranny. </TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah that's right 10.6:1 compression
ALot of the jdm power has to do with the fact they run 100 octane. The jdm ecu has aggressive timing maps. If you try to run 91 octane on one, you'd prolly get detonation.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by X2BOARD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ALot of the jdm power has to do with the fact they run 100 octane. The jdm ecu has aggressive timing maps. If you try to run 91 octane on one, you'd prolly get detonation.</TD></TR></TABLE>
THEY DO NOT RUN 100 OCTANE ON THE STREET, or the track half the time cause its A LOT OF $$$$$$.
they have the same emissions as california basically....our 93 is their equivalent to 97/98...different way of measuring octanes.. they use the euro way or vice versa..
our 91 octane is their 95
our 87 octane is their 92
my octane math comparisons are not accurate but you get the point.
THEY DO NOT RUN 100 OCTANE ON THE STREET, or the track half the time cause its A LOT OF $$$$$$.
they have the same emissions as california basically....our 93 is their equivalent to 97/98...different way of measuring octanes.. they use the euro way or vice versa..
our 91 octane is their 95
our 87 octane is their 92
my octane math comparisons are not accurate but you get the point.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ceLtic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
THEY DO NOT RUN 100 OCTANE ON THE STREET, or the track half the time cause its A LOT OF $$$$$$.
they have the same emissions as california basically....our 93 is their equivalent to 97/98...different way of measuring octanes.. they use the euro way or vice versa..
our 91 octane is their 95
our 87 octane is their 92
my octane math comparisons are not accurate but you get the point.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
GUY !! You cannot run cars like skylines and evos on 91 octane and see full potential... 100 octane is available at the pump for a reason !
They do not rate octane differently in Europe, what you are reading is actually the RON (research octane number). In the US, you use a PON (pump octane number) which is the average of the pump octane and motor octane. Some countries in europe use RON number and yes, your estimates are relatively close.... 95 RON= ~91PON and so on.... the ecu's have timing for 100PON, trust me.
How do I know ? I see JDM cars down here everyday... the monsters like the evos, STis, silvias and yes, even ITRs get GANKED once they run under 100PON... power decreases notably. We do not have 100PON where I am... the best we have at the pump is 95RON (91.5PON), which is basically sewage for many JDM cars.
When you run a JDM ecu on US pump gas, more than likely, the car will knock and the ecu will back off the timing... so then you are running slightly retarded timing and may never realize it.
THEY DO NOT RUN 100 OCTANE ON THE STREET, or the track half the time cause its A LOT OF $$$$$$.
they have the same emissions as california basically....our 93 is their equivalent to 97/98...different way of measuring octanes.. they use the euro way or vice versa..
our 91 octane is their 95
our 87 octane is their 92
my octane math comparisons are not accurate but you get the point.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
GUY !! You cannot run cars like skylines and evos on 91 octane and see full potential... 100 octane is available at the pump for a reason !
They do not rate octane differently in Europe, what you are reading is actually the RON (research octane number). In the US, you use a PON (pump octane number) which is the average of the pump octane and motor octane. Some countries in europe use RON number and yes, your estimates are relatively close.... 95 RON= ~91PON and so on.... the ecu's have timing for 100PON, trust me.
How do I know ? I see JDM cars down here everyday... the monsters like the evos, STis, silvias and yes, even ITRs get GANKED once they run under 100PON... power decreases notably. We do not have 100PON where I am... the best we have at the pump is 95RON (91.5PON), which is basically sewage for many JDM cars.
When you run a JDM ecu on US pump gas, more than likely, the car will knock and the ecu will back off the timing... so then you are running slightly retarded timing and may never realize it.
which is better? ITR Camshaft, CTR camshaft or Skunk2 Stage II Camshaft? They all fit JDM GSR right? I'm in the same situation as this guy. I wanna go all motor. I'm thinkin' about gettin' it port/polished, Blox IM, headers, and AEM V2 CAI. I already got GReddy Sp2 exhaust system.
oh BTW which type of gasline should I use? gas is really expensive, I just use 87 for all of my cars. If I use 87, will that make my B18C slower?
oh BTW which type of gasline should I use? gas is really expensive, I just use 87 for all of my cars. If I use 87, will that make my B18C slower?
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i gota jdm b18c (type r)
so i should run100octane in the us pumps? if i did that it would be bad your saying right? 93 is fine?
and i have it in a hatch wiht mugen 4-1 header nad aem cai p28chipped if you want a good part look into toda, their headers are the BEST! by far for power gains and quality..i plan on getting toda cams, 2.5 str8 back from the collector, higher conpression pistions 12.7 or 13.2, final drive changed
so i should run100octane in the us pumps? if i did that it would be bad your saying right? 93 is fine?
and i have it in a hatch wiht mugen 4-1 header nad aem cai p28chipped if you want a good part look into toda, their headers are the BEST! by far for power gains and quality..i plan on getting toda cams, 2.5 str8 back from the collector, higher conpression pistions 12.7 or 13.2, final drive changed
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FlsFinest »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i gota jdm b18c (type r)
so i should run100octane in the us pumps? if i did that it would be bad your saying right? 93 is fine?
and i have it in a hatch wiht mugen 4-1 header nad aem cai p28chipped if you want a good part look into toda, their headers are the BEST! by far for power gains and quality..i plan on getting toda cams, 2.5 str8 back from the collector, higher conpression pistions 12.7 or 13.2, final drive changed</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well you don't need 100....The jdm 100 octane rating is a RON number, so pump octane (the US quoted number, {ron+mon}/2) is closer to 95-96 octane. For a 'econobox' honda engine, you'll get most of the power out of 93 PON gas. But the JDM ecu still has timing available that you won't see on 93... but it's a trade off, longevity vs. a couple horses. If you're running US91 octane, you'll lose a considerable amount of power...
so i should run100octane in the us pumps? if i did that it would be bad your saying right? 93 is fine?
and i have it in a hatch wiht mugen 4-1 header nad aem cai p28chipped if you want a good part look into toda, their headers are the BEST! by far for power gains and quality..i plan on getting toda cams, 2.5 str8 back from the collector, higher conpression pistions 12.7 or 13.2, final drive changed</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well you don't need 100....The jdm 100 octane rating is a RON number, so pump octane (the US quoted number, {ron+mon}/2) is closer to 95-96 octane. For a 'econobox' honda engine, you'll get most of the power out of 93 PON gas. But the JDM ecu still has timing available that you won't see on 93... but it's a trade off, longevity vs. a couple horses. If you're running US91 octane, you'll lose a considerable amount of power...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by street95civic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">which is better? ITR Camshaft, CTR camshaft or Skunk2 Stage II Camshaft? They all fit JDM GSR right? I'm in the same situation as this guy. I wanna go all motor. I'm thinkin' about gettin' it port/polished, Blox IM, headers, and AEM V2 CAI. I already got GReddy Sp2 exhaust system.
oh BTW which type of gasline should I use? gas is really expensive, I just use 87 for all of my cars. If I use 87, will that make my B18C slower?</TD></TR></TABLE>
87 is not nearly what you need... 91 minimum or your ecu will pull timing like mad... bad gas mileage and all. Dunno bout the spec of the skunk2 cam, but the CTR cam has the most aggressive profile (intake is diff I believe) vs the ITR.
oh BTW which type of gasline should I use? gas is really expensive, I just use 87 for all of my cars. If I use 87, will that make my B18C slower?</TD></TR></TABLE>
87 is not nearly what you need... 91 minimum or your ecu will pull timing like mad... bad gas mileage and all. Dunno bout the spec of the skunk2 cam, but the CTR cam has the most aggressive profile (intake is diff I believe) vs the ITR.
get the basic bolt ons, intake, 4-1 header, exhuast. a hi flow cat or straight wil help too..
change out ur intake manifold..assuming ur jdm b18c is a jdm gsr...
if not...then go wtih an upgraded camshaft..like a stage 2 series cam.
tuning is key at taht point..a good tuner can help bring out alot of hidden hp...a chipped p28 mated to a piggy back unit ie vafc will help also...
change out ur intake manifold..assuming ur jdm b18c is a jdm gsr...
if not...then go wtih an upgraded camshaft..like a stage 2 series cam.
tuning is key at taht point..a good tuner can help bring out alot of hidden hp...a chipped p28 mated to a piggy back unit ie vafc will help also...
yes mine is JDM GSR, which IM should I get though? I heard Blox is good.
Also what is a chipped p28 mated to a piggy back unit?
I have no idea what that is. Does it has to do with the ECU?
Also what is a chipped p28 mated to a piggy back unit?
I have no idea what that is. Does it has to do with the ECU?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by street95civic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes mine is JDM GSR, which IM should I get though? I heard Blox is good.
Also what is a chipped p28 mated to a piggy back unit?
I have no idea what that is. Does it has to do with the ECU? </TD></TR></TABLE>
change out it to a type R style intake manifold. blox and skunk 2 are the same thing. dynamic autosports/peak performance makes a type R manifold for gsr which in my opinion is made a little better than the skunk unit...inisde of the manifold is much smoother.
also, change your throttle body to at least ITR or bigger. ur also going to want a itr/ls throttle cable and bracket for a perfect and nice fit.
a p28 is an ecu that comes factory on 92-95 civic 1.6 liter vtec engines. although it is an obd1 single cam vtec ecu, it responds well to chipping for dual cam engines. The chip spec is up to you, redline, vtec crossover, fuel map etc are specs you can decide on your own. a piggy back unit is something like a vafc. it is essentially a computer that splices into your factory harness allowing you to make slight changes such as fuel adjustments, ign timing, etc.
on my jdm gsr, i felt big mid-range power gains after swapping the intake manifold and throttle body. at this point, you motor should be making pretty good power and the only thing left to do after that is getting a set of bigger cams.
hope this helps out!
Also what is a chipped p28 mated to a piggy back unit?
I have no idea what that is. Does it has to do with the ECU? </TD></TR></TABLE>
change out it to a type R style intake manifold. blox and skunk 2 are the same thing. dynamic autosports/peak performance makes a type R manifold for gsr which in my opinion is made a little better than the skunk unit...inisde of the manifold is much smoother.
also, change your throttle body to at least ITR or bigger. ur also going to want a itr/ls throttle cable and bracket for a perfect and nice fit.
a p28 is an ecu that comes factory on 92-95 civic 1.6 liter vtec engines. although it is an obd1 single cam vtec ecu, it responds well to chipping for dual cam engines. The chip spec is up to you, redline, vtec crossover, fuel map etc are specs you can decide on your own. a piggy back unit is something like a vafc. it is essentially a computer that splices into your factory harness allowing you to make slight changes such as fuel adjustments, ign timing, etc.
on my jdm gsr, i felt big mid-range power gains after swapping the intake manifold and throttle body. at this point, you motor should be making pretty good power and the only thing left to do after that is getting a set of bigger cams.
hope this helps out!


