Rear LCA bolt problem
I searched and found alot of people that broke their LCA bolts off where the strut attaches to the LCA.. I was removing the LCA's with the strut attached so I could install my new poly bushings..
Anyway, on the passenger side LCA where it attaches to the trailing arm the bolt broke there.. Good think is that it broke on the threads so I can possibly get a pair of vice grips on it and turn it out forward.. Other than doing that and putting wd40 and heating the bolt, are there any other tricks to getting whats left of the bolt out.. Keep in mind this isnt on the strut, its on the lca where it attaches to the trailing arm.. Thanks..
Anyway, on the passenger side LCA where it attaches to the trailing arm the bolt broke there.. Good think is that it broke on the threads so I can possibly get a pair of vice grips on it and turn it out forward.. Other than doing that and putting wd40 and heating the bolt, are there any other tricks to getting whats left of the bolt out.. Keep in mind this isnt on the strut, its on the lca where it attaches to the trailing arm.. Thanks..
PB blaster that ****
if you have time, let it sit a while, and then spray it again, let it sit, spray it again, let it sit, (you get the idea)
then get the pliers on it
make sure to take your time with it; if you cannot get it out, I'm afraid you'll have to replace your trailing arm.
if you have time, let it sit a while, and then spray it again, let it sit, spray it again, let it sit, (you get the idea)
then get the pliers on it
make sure to take your time with it; if you cannot get it out, I'm afraid you'll have to replace your trailing arm.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hatch77 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">PB blaster that ****
if you have time, let it sit a while, and then spray it again, let it sit, spray it again, let it sit, (you get the idea)
then get the pliers on it
make sure to take your time with it; if you cannot get it out, I'm afraid you'll have to replace your trailing arm. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Or cut/torch the nut off and weld a new one on..
if you have time, let it sit a while, and then spray it again, let it sit, spray it again, let it sit, (you get the idea)
then get the pliers on it
make sure to take your time with it; if you cannot get it out, I'm afraid you'll have to replace your trailing arm. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Or cut/torch the nut off and weld a new one on..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hatch77 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i wouldn't recommend that...unless you're very confident in your ability to weld a very strong seam.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why.. Im cutting the nut off not anything else..
</TD></TR></TABLE>Why.. Im cutting the nut off not anything else..
you're cutting the nutplate off of the trailing arm? shearing the bolt off with a sawsall and then working it out with a pair of pliers would be better IMO.
What happens when your welded on nutplate breaks or cracks because of stress over time? The bolt will wiggle itself loose and the next bump you hit... *boom*
What happens when your welded on nutplate breaks or cracks because of stress over time? The bolt will wiggle itself loose and the next bump you hit... *boom*
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